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從辦公室到皇室都適用的著裝元素:梅根公爵夫人的《無照律師》穿衣術

Harper's BAZAAR

更新於 2018年09月09日15:58 • 發布於 2018年09月08日17:44 • Raven Yang, Silvia Kuo

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As well as giving us an insight into the high-drama world of the American legal system, female characters that were as straight-talking and accomplished as their male counterparts, and one of the greatest office romances in television history, TV series Suits was also a goldmine of formal workwear inspiration. While Harvey Specter demonstrated just how good a man can look in a perfectly tailored suit, the women proved that you don't have to sacrifice personal style in an effort to appear office appropriate.

This was of course down to the show's accomplished costume designer, Jolie Andreatta, who by "watching, listening and collaborating, along with constant treasure hunting and a little day dreaming," she says, was able to come up with a work wardrobe for each of the characters that also allowed their personalities to shine through.

"Working with Gabriel [Macht], Harvey's look came naturally," she told us. "Inspired by classics, throwing in a hint of trend, and great tailoring - he easily makes it look romantic."

Of the female characters, the stylist said, "Sarah [Rafferty] is like fireworks, and so is Donna, which is such a joy; she brings a spark when assembling the look for the show. Gina Torres, aka Jessica Pearson, is my pièce de la résistance. Truly. Can anyone blame me?"

As for Meghan Markle, formerly Rachel Zane and now the Duchess of Sussex, Andreatta said, "Meghan and I loved Rachel's clothes. We’d always say that, if we could, we would live in Rachel’s clothes. Designing Rachel's look was like being a kid in a candy store."

And there's no doubt that a lot of Rachel Zane's look can be seen in Meghan's personal style today, from form-fitting dresses with flattering cuts to chic tonal colour palettes and sky-high court shoes. When you've worked on a show for seven years, you're likely to pick up some style tips from your daily wardrobe, and with Meghan's new role in the royal family requiring a formal dress code, it's unsurprising that she might, like us, have been inspired by Rachel's look. Here's how…

A sharp shirt

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A crisp collared shirt was a mainstay in Rachel Zane's wardrobe, often paired with a pencil skirt or tailored trousers. For the Invictus Games in Toronto Meghan followed Rachel's lead and wore a crisp white shirt, albeit with skinny denim jeans, and at this year's Wimbledon tennis championship she added a striped shirt to wide-leg trousers.

Neutral hues

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Perhaps Suits gave Meghan an education in flattering colours because, like Rachel, the Duchess of Sussex often opts for a muted palette of caramel, soft pink, cream and brown, which she looks beautiful in.

A trench

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Meghan has worn a number of trench coat-style dresses, including the beautiful pale pink House of Nonie number that she wore to the The Nelson Mandela Centenary Exhibition in July. Perhaps she first fell for the trench silhouette on set?

A fluted pencil skirt

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The beautiful green, fluted pencil skirt that Meghan wore on her visit to Ireland with Prince Harry in March of this year was not unlike something she'd previously worn on the show.

Off-the-shoulder styles

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While Rachel Zane proved that bare shoulders can be office appropriate if done in the right way, the Duchess of Sussex did the same (despite courting a little controversy) in the chic Carolina Herrera dress she wore to the Trooping of the Colour in June.

Monochrome

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The Duchess of Sussex has been seen in a number of monochrome looks, from a black suit worn with a simple white T-shirt, to a white dress worn with black accessories for Ascot and - our favourite - this belted dress and jacket. The same colour combination was frequently seen in Rachel Zane's wardrobe. I

「透過觀察、傾聽、合作,加上不懈的尋寶與一點點的天馬行空」影集《無照律師》的造型設計師Jolie Andreatta親自受訪,分享為Rachel Zane一角治裝的夢幻經驗,還有Meghan Markle本人對於角色服裝的喜愛。現在就讓我們一起來看Meghan Markle成為梅根公爵夫人後,復刻了哪些劇中曾出現的穿搭元素,並升級成全新的皇室版優雅風格!

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PHOTO CREDIT: USA Network

除了在帶領觀眾深入了解美國法律體系,展現女性角色的成功地位,以及趣味橫生的辦公室戀愛劇情等諸多看點之外,影集《無照律師》(Suits,另譯《金裝律師》)同時也是一座辦公室正式穿搭的靈感金礦。

當男主角Harvey Specter向觀眾展示一件量身定制的完美西裝是如何讓男人看來體面無比的同時,劇中的Jessica、Donna與Rachel則親身示範了要怎麼在個人喜好與辦公室穿搭間取得平衡,而劇中精彩的時裝展示,都要歸功於影集的造型設計師Jolie Andreatta。

COPYRIGHT: Getty Images

PHOTO CREDIT: USA Network

「透過觀察、傾聽、合作,加上不懈的尋寶與一點點的天馬行空」Jolie Andreatta為劇中角色分別打造了更能凸顯他們個人風格的辦公室時髦衣櫥。設計師說道:「飾演Donna的Sarah Rafferty就像煙火,她總能跟衣服碰撞出火花,為她設計造型非常快樂。Gina Torresn所飾演的Jessica Perason則可以說是我的生涯力作!」

至於對於Meghan Markle,也就是以往我們所熟知的角色Rachel Zane,現在的薩克斯公爵夫人,Andreatta則表示:「Meghan和我都非常喜歡Rachel的衣服。我們總是說,如果可以的話希望能永遠穿著Rachel的衣服。設計Rachel的穿搭讓我就像一個身處糖果店的孩子。」

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Rachel Zane的穿搭輪廓至今也存在於梅根的個人風格中:從有著修飾剪裁與時髦色調的貼身洋裝,到塑造絕佳比例的極高跟鞋;當你飾演一個角色長達七年,你的確會從中獲取一些穿搭提示,尤其是在成為需要時常穿上正式服裝的皇室成員後,就像我們從影集中尋找穿搭靈感一樣,梅根因Rachel Zane的衣櫥得到風格啟發似乎也不難想像。

現在就讓我們一起來看看那些Rachel Zane與梅根共通的時髦穿衣術!

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風格襯衫

一件件簡約襯衫是Rachel Zane在《無照律師》裡的最常見的辦公室穿搭。梅根在劇中扮演行事幹練的律師助理,合身襯衫與鉛筆裙的辦公室經典搭配幾乎可以說是她在劇中的制服。

成為皇室成員後,梅根透過巧妙變換的襯衫剪裁,讓更加寬鬆柔和的輪廓,帶出優雅隨性的氣質。在今年的溫布頓網球錦標賽場邊,她身穿藍白直紋襯衫搭配白色寬褲,營造清爽而朝氣十足的夏日網球觀賽穿搭。

相關話題:看網球穿什麼?溫布頓場邊的夏日風情穿搭

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風格襯衫

湛白的襯衫式洋裝以古典緹花刺繡裝飾,搭配上腰帶與英國皇室的招牌單品帽子,比起《無照律師》時期的幹練,更多的是皇室獨有的優雅嫻靜氣質。

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柔和色調

也許《無照律師》的中性色調也給了梅根配色方面的靈感,像劇中的Rachel Zane一樣,梅根經常選擇溫和宜人的裸色調,例如柔和的淺卡其、奶油白和藕粉色,都是Rachel與梅根同樣時常穿著的顏色,相較於豔麗的色調,低調的色彩搭配使得梅根看來更加親和近人。

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柔和色調

同樣是裸膚色系穿著,梅根在進入皇室後,選擇了加上雙排扣的水手領款式套裝,相較於剪裁俐落的洋裝,多了些溫柔成熟的氣息。

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浪漫裙擺

梅根在今年三月與哈利王子一同訪問愛爾蘭期間,穿上與Rachel Zane的劇中穿著類似的湖水綠魚尾裙,搭配上剪裁柔美的翻領大衣,散發出知性氣質。

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露肩度量

在《無照律師》中給人性感俏麗印象的Rachel Zane身穿白色露肩上衣,對比戲外梅根的粉色一字領復古套裝,雖然是相似的肩線設計,卻展現了摩登俐落與古典莊重的兩種面貌。

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透膚巧思

梅根在劇中與皇室的穿搭,證明了只要設計合宜,透膚款式服裝依然可以成為辦公室,甚至是皇室的合格穿著。透過優雅的圓領與長袖設計,加上平口面料拼接,些許的透視反而更能帶出簡約穿著中的層次。

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俐落風衣

帶有風衣元素的洋裝或大衣向來是梅根的喜好款式,她在七月份出席《曼德拉百年誕辰展覽》時穿上裸粉色雙排釦無袖風衣洋裝,搭配同色系手拿包與尖頭跟鞋,整個人看起來大器而雅緻。同樣地,劇中Rachel Zane也時常穿著長版俐落風衣,換上保暖的秋冬面料,展示風衣無分季節的百搭特性。

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黑白相襯

黑與白可說是多數人衣櫃中最常見的顏色,不論是劇中Rachel Zane的基本黑白辦公室套裝,或是梅根以黑白為基調的時髦搭配,黑白配色加上俐落剪裁絕對是難以失誤的基礎穿衣法則。

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經典藍白

藍與白搭配所能營造的清爽與優雅,在Rachel Zane的圍裹式設計洋裝與梅根的滾邊大衣上得到了清楚驗證,搭配上細緻項鍊或柔軟的高領針織衫,則在對比較為強烈的配色中注入柔美細節。

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寶藍驚艷

梅根最近現身慈善音樂會現場時,跳脫以往的低調色系,穿上與《無照律師》第二季宣傳照極為類似的寶藍色Jason Wu洋裝,透過領口與袖型的細節設計調整,詮釋截然不同的溫婉形象。

*本文由 Harper's BAZAAR Taiwan 報導,未經授權同意不得轉載*

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