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Tory Burch 2024 春夏:解脫歷史上的女性束縛,做一位時髦豪不費力的 Tory Burch Girl

VOGUE

更新於 2023年09月18日15:50 • 發布於 2023年09月15日13:04 • Amber Chan

文/ Ellory

近年來的 Tory Burch 變得很不一樣了,自從設計師 Tory Burch 卸下品牌CEO身份、將 100 分的心力放在設計工作之後,早已不只是《花邊教主》裡帶起源源不絕買氣的那個品牌。這次紐約時裝周上所發佈的 2024 春夏大秀更是完美的證明,Tory Burch 說:「本系列旨在融入生活的每一刻,傳遞一種輕盈和樂觀的態度。」讓我們一起來看過本季的 5 大亮點。

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 11: Liu Wen walks the runway during the Tory Burch S/S 2024 New York Fashion Week show at American Museum of Natural History on September 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Taylor Hill/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 11: Liu Wen walks the runway during the Tory Burch S/S 2024 New York Fashion Week show at American Museum of Natural History on September 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Taylor Hill/Getty Images)

大秀場地很厲害

Tory Burch 2024 春夏大秀選址了今年 5 月才剛開幕的新地標:美國自然歷史博物館的新展館 The Gilder Center,這裡從外觀到室內裝潢,每一個角度都是驚喜,起伏蜿蜒如洞穴般的壯闊感,像是大自然的鬼斧神工,是一個想像力會被啟動、好奇心會油然而生的地方,如果這是一堂自然課,那麼最接近 Tory Burch 要帶我們前往的目的地,或許是未知的外太空。

Models walk the runway during the Spring Summer 2024 runway show for Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City on September 11, 2023. (Photo by ANGELA WEISS / AFP) (Photo by ANGELA WEISS/AFP via Getty Images)
Models walk the runway during the Spring Summer 2024 runway show for Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City on September 11, 2023. (Photo by ANGELA WEISS / AFP) (Photo by ANGELA WEISS/AFP via Getty Images)

服裝不應該是女性的束縛

Tory Buch 說著:「在紊亂的世界,我們思索著什麼是不費力的時尚。」抽象地用「釋放心靈的服裝」來解釋,並非極簡,而是輕鬆地去感受服裝的形式、輪廓、結構。2024 春夏系列中重新詮釋很許多在歷史上讓女性有「束縛感」的單品,像是裙子的襯架,Tory Burch 抓了到膝蓋上的長度,比起以往多了無憂無慮、年輕的態度;而現代女性衣櫃中少不了西裝外套,則是採用了弧形的線條設計,袖子上有開衩的細節,手部隨著走路擺動時,優雅地露出肌膚,有一點 60 年代,卻也帶著外太空感的輕盈。

放大鏡看細節

緊接著大輪廓之後,我們拿著放大鏡再仔細看,Tory Burch 2024 春夏系列以模組化剪裁、羽毛般輕盈的材質層疊交錯,纖毫畢現的網狀疊層上散落著靈感來自花蕊的細絲、大衣和歐根紗長袍上飾有銀鈴,隨著每一個動作輕輕鳴響,最後一個 Look 的夾絲洋裝,繡有精巧的小鈴鐺和手工燒制的亮片。

Fleming Bag 藏巧思

而 Tory Burch 吸引目光的自然還不能少了手袋、鞋履等配件,自 2014 年推出的人氣包款 Fleming 這次以迷你尺寸亮相,並且設計成微微的凹型設計,巧妙地貼喝了髖部的曲線;而鞋履的方面,本季我們可以看到全部都是舒服的平底鞋、低跟鞋,指環鞋以圓潤的坡跟設計、Patos 涼鞋融入的建築元素,而全新的芭蕾舞平底鞋則受到方頭軟底童鞋的啟發,加入全新 Violet T 字帶元素。

水原希子、Emily、劉雯同台

當然,Tory Burch 的秀場上自然也是星光熠熠。我們在伸展台上看到了水原希子、 Emily Ratajkowski,還有品牌代言人劉雯壓軸走壓軸。Front Row 則有另一位品牌代言人秦嵐,身著 Tory Burch 2023 秋冬系列,俐落的收腰西裝、燈芯絨長褲、襯衫造型;演員孫怡身著網孔上衣及迷笛彈力西裝半身裙。Uma Thurman、Naomi Watts、Emma Roberts、Suki Waterhouse… ,紛紛以不同風格詮釋了 Tory Burch Girl。

NEW YORK, USA - SEPTEMBER 11: A model walks the runway during the Tory Burch Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the New York Fashion Week on September 11, 2023 in NY. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
NEW YORK, USA - SEPTEMBER 11: A model walks the runway during the Tory Burch Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the New York Fashion Week on September 11, 2023 in NY. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 11: Emily Ratajkowski walks the runway during the Tory Burch S/S 2024 New York Fashion Week show at American Museum of Natural History on September 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Taylor Hill/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 11: Emily Ratajkowski walks the runway during the Tory Burch S/S 2024 New York Fashion Week show at American Museum of Natural History on September 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Taylor Hill/Getty Images)
Qin Lan, Emma Roberts, Uma Thurman, Naomi Watts, Taylour Paige, Suki Waterhouse, Monica Barbaro, Hari Nef, Jeremy O. Harris
Qin Lan, Emma Roberts, Uma Thurman, Naomi Watts, Taylour Paige, Suki Waterhouse, Monica Barbaro, Hari Nef, Jeremy O. Harris

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