今年對珍・奧斯汀來說是個重要的年份——她誕生於 1775 年，至今正好 250 週年。為了紀念她的成就，其中一項活動便是重新上映 Joe Wright 於 2005 年執導的電影版《傲慢與偏見》。這部經典之作重返大銀幕，也讓我們翻開《Vogue Runway》的資料庫，看看當代設計師們是如何從奧斯汀所處的時代汲取靈感。
在簡・奧斯汀的年代，新古典主義風格被簡化為輕盈、線條筆直的服飾，最具代表性的便是高腰線（象徵拿破崙帝國風格）的設計。這種強調露出胸部上圍（俗稱「攝政時期貨架」）的高腰連身裙，和今日以豐滿為美的審美略有出入。但攝政時期的風格如今令人著迷的原因在於，它展現的是自然身形。雖然奧斯汀筆下的班納特姊妹可能有穿馬甲，但並不緊束，也不需要裙撐或裙籃來撐起裙襬，因此她們依然能自由穿梭門間或漫步荒原。奧斯汀所關注的從來不是身體的變形，而是心靈與情感的蛻變——尤其是那些敞開心扉去愛的過程。
白色新古典主義洋裝
Keira Knightley，《傲慢與偏見》（2005） Commission, spring 2025 ready-to-wear Marina Moscone, spring 2025 ready-to-wear Lauren Manoogian, spring 2025 ready-to-wear Bora Aksu, fall 2025 ready-to-wear François Gérard，《西西里島的 Carolina Ferdinanda Louisa》與丈夫 Charles Ferdinand，約 1820 年代 Giambattista Valli, spring 2025 couture 夏日禮服，胸口與裙擺打褶設計 Givenchy, spring 2008 couture Jacques-Louis David，《Juliette Récamier》，1800 年 Vera Wang, fall 2017 ready-to-wear Alexander McQueen, fall 2008 ready-to-wear Cecilia Dean in Alexander McQueen, 2009 Eva Mendes in Dolce & Gabbana at the Met Gala, 2006 Jill Stuart, fall 2006 ready-to-wear Pascal Simon Gérard，《Madame Charles Maurice de Talleyrand Périgord》，約 1804 年 Erin Fetherston, fall 2008 ready-to-wear Helena Bonham Carter at Cannes, 2006 Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres，《Caroline Rivière 小姐》，1806 年 Chanel, spring 2007 couture 漫步服，《Costume Parisien》，1803 年 Givenchy, spring 2002 couture 晚禮服與頭巾，1815 年 Givenchy, fall 1997 couture 色彩與印花
Keira Knightley，《傲慢與偏見》（2005） Chloé, fall 2025 ready-to-wear Ball costume, 1803 Caroline Hu, fall 2025 ready-to-wear Erdem, spring 2021 ready-to-wear Raymond Coulthard、Kate Beckinsale 與 Mark Strong 演出 1996 年版《Emma》 Giambattista Valli, spring 2025 ready-to-wear Celia Johnson 與 Hugh Williams，《傲慢與偏見》1936 年劇場版 Alberta Ferrtti, spring 2006 ready-to-wear A summer promenade gown Valentino, spring 2015 couture Ladies evening or opera dress, April 1, 1810 Christian Lacroix, fall 2007 couture Christian Lacroix, fall 2006 couture Fashionable woman, 1801 Christian Lacroix, spring 2006 couture 攝政時期也有透視裝
Givenchy, fall 1996 couture Brock Collection, spring 2020 ready-to-wear Merveilleuse in a toque cap, 1801 Dilara Findikoglu, fall 2025 ready-to-wear Saint Laurent, fall 2005 ready-to-wear Giambattista Valli, spring 2016 couture Portrait of a Young Woman in White, circa 1798. Artist anon. (Photo by Heritage Art/Heritage Images via Getty Images) Chloé, fall 2025 ready-to-wear 自然豐滿美學
Summer dress, 1800s Alexander McQueen, spring 2017 ready-to-wear Bottega Veneta, spring 2008 ready-to-wear Opera dress, 1812. Christian Lacroix, spring 2006 ready-to-wear Spencers攝政風短夾克
Fashionable woman, 1801 Lou Doillon at the Met Gala, 2008 Erdem, spring 2021 ready-to-wear Alexander McQueen, spring 2017 ready-to-wear Fashionable woman in a spencer jacket, 1800 Givenchy, pre-fall 2021 Promenade dress and Ninon bonnet, 1817 Givenchy, fall 1996 couture 皇室風格與攝政高腰線
Alexander McQueen, fall 2008 ready-to-wear François Gérard, Empress Josephine in Coronation Robes, 1807-8 Christian Dior, spring 2005 couture Valentino, spring 2005 couture Valentino, spring 2016 couture Alexander McQueen, fall 2003 ready-to-wear Robert Lefèvre, Letizia Ramolino Bonaparte, 1813 Dolce & Gabbana, fall 2006 ready-to-wear Givenchy, fall 1996 couture Shalom Harlow in Dolce & Gabbana at the 2006 Met Gala Chanel, spring 2007 couture 翩翩達西風
Keira Knightley and Rupert Friend (as George Wickham) in Pride & Prejudice, 2005 Vivienne Westwood, fall 1996 ready-to-wear Photo: Condé Nast Archive Incroyables et Merveilleuses Photo: API / Getty Images Incroyable, 1795 Photo: Florilegius / Getty Images Vivienne Westwood, fall 1994 ready-to-wear Photo: Condé Nast Archive 攝政時尚的終極配件
Morning dress, 1807 Photo: Heritage Images / Getty Images Yohji Yamamoto, spring 2000 ready-to-wear Photo: Penske Media / Getty Images Givenchy, fall 1996 couture Photo: Condé Nast Archive Fashionable woman or Merveilleuse, 1795 Photo: Florilegius / Getty Images Givenchy, fall 1996 couture Photo: Condé Nast Archive Anna Sui, spring 1994 ready-to-wear Photo: WWD / Getty Images Dress, shawl, and hat, 1815. Photo: Heritage Images / Getty Images Yohji Yamamoto, spring 1997 ready-to-wear Photo: Condé Nast Archive Givenchy, fall 1996 couture Photo: Condé Nast Archive Walking dress, circa 1803 Photo: Heritage Images / Getty Images Givenchy, fall 1996 couture Photo: Condé Nast Archive Gucci, fall 2017 ready-to-wear Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital. Gucci, fall 2017 ready-to-wear Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital. 「眾所皆知，凡擁有優渥財富的單身男子，必然在尋覓一位妻子。」
珍・奧斯汀
Jane Austen 1775 To 1817. English Novelist. (Photo by: Universal History Archive/Universal Images Group via Getty Images) Vintage illustration of Elizabeth Bennet dancing with her father, from Jane Austen's Pride and Prejudice; engraving, 1833. (Photo by GraphicaArtis/Getty Images) 延伸閱讀
原文出處 Vogue US
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