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不只是緊身 Skinny 回歸!深度解析 Prada 2027 春夏男裝系列:簡化輪廓,重新思考服裝本質

GQ

更新於 06月23日04:40 • 發布於 06月23日04:31 • Willy.En

Prada 2027 春夏男裝選址於 Fondazione Prada 的 Deposito 空間辦秀。一進純白現場,秀前收到、宛如「星際大戰光劍」的邀請函被等比例放大,一排排在透明地板下方亮起,照亮整個空間,座椅呈現出如同迷宮般平行與垂直的幾何線條,整體宛如科幻片中的復古數位矩陣。

A model walks the runway during the Prada collection show as part of Spring/Summer 2027 men's collection at Milan Fashion Week, on June 21, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Prada collection show as part of Spring/Summer 2027 men's collection at Milan Fashion Week, on June 21, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP via Getty Images)

Miuccia Prada 與 Raf Simons 將本季命名為「Clarity(純粹/清晰)」,旨在重新形塑日常服裝的價值。

但怎麼視覺化「Clarity」?澳洲超模 Julia Nobis 演繹的開場造型或許是很好的解釋:俐落的白色牛仔褲、短版牛仔夾克,外搭一件海軍藍西裝外套。這套經典的男士搭配,沒有多餘的裝飾或複雜的面料,卻奠定了整場大秀視覺核心基調。

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 21: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 on June 21, 2026 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)

與單純的減法不同。整個系列乍看之下,雖然圍繞著亮色長褲、皮革夾克、V 領針織衫與襯衫等經典款式,實際上 Miuccia Prada 與 Raf Simons 將平常這些我們最熟悉的平凡單品,透過全新比例與材質的進行重組,將時裝回歸根本,實現個體穿衣自由,進而重塑大眾對高級奢華精品的既定認知。

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 21: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 on June 21, 2026 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 21: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 on June 21, 2026 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 21: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 on June 21, 2026 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)

這種對日常基本款的極致精簡,如同向大眾發出一張「自由混搭」的邀請卡。大膽的撞色印花、不同幾何圖案相互搭配,極短版的夾克與緊身長褲彼此貫穿,抑或是兩條撞色的絲巾一起圍在腰際,每個人都能自主決定該如何詮釋單品、展現風格。

服裝輪廓也一同「去蕪存菁」?

是的,這股精煉也轉譯為極窄版的修身輪廓,近乎宣告 Skinny 風格回歸!短版皮革夾克、刻意露出的腰線,以及帶有 70 年代懷舊風情的撞色印花,被同時穿在緊身長褲與針織衫上,極具 90 年代 Raf Simons 品牌的 underground 氛圍在這裡展現得淋漓盡致,但依舊保留了無法誤認的 Prada 風格。

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 21: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 on June 21, 2026 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 21: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 on June 21, 2026 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)

一夜狂歡當然不需拿包

叛逆的地下氣息也延伸到了配飾上!模特兒臉上架著打破常規、左右不對稱的太陽眼鏡,秀上幾乎不見大型包款,取而代之的是一個個方形的小巧腰包,用登山扣隨意掛在皮帶環上,彷彿趕場一個地下電音派對,雙手解放,才能毫無拘束地盡情跳舞、享受夜晚。

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 21: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 on June 21, 2026 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 21: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 on June 21, 2026 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

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