搖滾、素食與環保！英國時尚設計師Stella McCartney的非典型母親

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2018年3月，在與法國精品集團開雲（Kering）合作17年後，Stella McCartney買回開雲在她同名品牌持有的50％股權，取得對個人品牌的完全掌握，成功讓Stella McCartney成為獨立品牌。「這事關傳承，」在說明為何要買回經營權時，Stella McCartney理所當然地表示，「我外祖父的座右銘是『保持掌握權力』，而我在意的一直都是長期發展。」

@stellamccartney arrives at The #FashionAwards 2017 in partnership with @swarovski. Tonight she will be honoured with the Special Recognition Award for Innovation to celebrate her outstanding contribution to the fashion industry.

A post shared by British Fashion Council (@britishfashioncouncil) on Dec 4, 2017 at 12:43pm PST

素來以堅持綠色時尚在時尚界獨樹一格的Stella McCartney，從不避諱她的名人父母對她人生與事業的啟發。Stella McCartney的父親是前披頭四（The Beatles）成員Paul McCartney，母親Linda McCartney除了是知名攝影師及Paul McCartney長年的音樂事業夥伴外，也是長期推動素食、動物保護運動的先鋒。Linda McCartney對於創作、生活與動物權利的熱情和堅持，不僅在上個世紀的七○、八○年代啟發了無數人開始關注動物權利，也對她的女兒Stella McCartney走上環保時尚之路有深遠的影響。

Stella McCartney, Martinique #StellaMcCartney @stellamccartney #portrait #childhood #Martinique

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on May 25, 2016 at 11:28am PDT

This is a sad sad time for our planet… and our souls - Sudan, the last male White Rhino has died in Kenya. To effectively make a creature extinct is a shame we all have to live with, every single day many leave us never to exist again, what have we done and why have we done this? Who do we think we are that we can kill a species with little remorse or responsibility. These animals are the closest we will ever get to our own history and our place on this planet is as precious as theirs. My heart is broken… x Stella

A post shared by Stella McCartney (@stellamccartney) on Mar 21, 2018 at 10:07am PDT

搖滾與素食造就Stella McCartney不平凡的童年
作為前披頭四成員Paul McCartney的女兒，Stella McCartney從小就成長在鎂光燈下。2017年，她在回憶起自己不尋常的童年時曾表示，從小跟著父母的羽翼樂團（Wings）四處巡演，對啟發她成為時裝設計師有深遠的影響。

「衣櫥裡總是有表演服，像我媽媽的閃亮過膝長靴，然後另一頭就是類似蘇格蘭費爾島（Fair Isle）的多色圖案針織衫，或是騎馬穿的燈芯絨長褲或牛仔褲。」她說，「前一分鐘你還與麥可傑克森在一起，下一分鐘你就在曠野上騎馬，或是坐在校車裡。」

不尋常的成長經歷還不止於此，Paul與Linda McCartney從1970年代起，因為不願傷害動物而開始吃素，所以他們的孩子們在成長過程中也跟著一起吃素，這在當時相當少見。

My mum used to say "do unto others as you would do to yourself", something I try and remember every day… I love you mum x Stella Post a picture of your mum here on Instagram and use the hashtag #MyMotherOnceSaid alongside the best advice she ever gave you and it might be featured in our special Mother"s Day post on the 11th March! . #StellasWorld #MothersDay #LindaMcCartney #StellaMcCartney

A post shared by Stella McCartney (@stellamccartney) on Feb 28, 2018 at 5:24am PST

Stella and Paul. Polaroid. @StellaMcCartney #LindaMcCartney #StellaMcCartney #PaulMcCartney #Polaroid

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Sep 13, 2017 at 1:10am PDT

Stella McCartney的姐姐，攝影師暨素食食譜作家Mary McCartney回憶道，在1970、80年代素食主義（Vegetarianism）還沒有今天的知名度和接受度，所以即使父母沒有強迫他們跟著吃，對小孩子來說，還是相當不容易，不僅經常得忍受異樣的眼光，食物選擇也相當有限。

「那個年紀你會想融入朋友，當時沒有太多選擇，只有薯條跟豆子。」她表示。

Stella. London, 1973 #LindaMcCartney #StellaMcCartney @StellaMcCartney #London #1973

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Aug 20, 2017 at 7:39am PDT

Paul, Mary and Stella, Scotland, 1977 #LindaMcCartney #PaulMcCartney #MaryMcCartney #StellaMcCartney #Scotland #1977

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Apr 21, 2017 at 8:27am PDT

攝影師母親作品啟發創作靈感

回顧Linda McCartney的一生，她的名字幾乎總是與Paul McCartney連結在一起，有些對六○年代的披頭四狂潮仍有記憶的人，或許還會想起她是如何被指控為導致披頭四解散的元兇。但在跟隨丈夫開創音樂事業之前，Linda McCartney其實已經是相當成功的攝影師了，許多六○年代的知名音樂人與樂團，都曾是她鏡頭下的主角。

Linda McCartney拍攝過的知名人物不計其數，其中最知名的有巴布迪倫（Bob Dylan）、托德朗德格恩（Todd Rundgren）、約翰藍儂（John Lennon）、艾瑞莎弗蘭克林（Aretha Franklin）、尼爾揚（Neil Young）、滾石樂團（The Rolling Stones）、誰樂團（The Who）、披頭四、吉米罕醉克斯體驗（The Jimi Hendrix Experience）等。她在1967年為尼爾揚拍攝的照片，後來成為尼爾揚2008年推出的《Sugar Mountain – Live at Canterbury House 1968 》（糖山—1968年坎特伯里現場演唱）的專輯封面。

Paul and George Harrison recording "The White Album", Trident Studios, London, 1968. #LindaMcCartney #PaulMcCartney #GeorgeHarrison #TheBeatles #WhiteAlbum #TridentStudios #London #1968

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Nov 28, 2016 at 8:09am PST

Brian Jones and Mick Jagger, New York, 1966. Currently on show @gagosiangallery New York until 19th December 2015. #LindaMcCartney #MaryMcCartney #MickJagger #BrianJones #MotherDaughter #sixties #RockandRoll #NewYork #gagosian #blackandwhite

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Dec 7, 2015 at 9:52am PST

David Bowie, 1974. #LindaMcCartney #DavidBowie

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Jan 11, 2016 at 7:29am PST

The Grateful Dead, San Francisco, 1968 #LindaMcCartney #SanFrancisco #1968 #TheGratefulDead

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Jan 5, 2017 at 8:43am PST

The Fool, London, 1968. #Dutch design collective #TheFool whose creations were sold at #TheBeatles Apple Boutique on #BakerStreet #London in the #sixties #LindaMcCartney #1968 #60s #portrait #AprilFools

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Apr 1, 2016 at 3:46am PDT

這份對攝影的熱情，即使後來音樂事業獲得成功，也不曾被遺忘。Linda McCartney從1969年與Paul McCartney結婚，到1998年因乳癌過世，多年來用攝影記錄巡演、旅行及家庭生活，這些有時瑣碎的點滴記憶，對她的家人而言，格外地珍貴，也帶給子女無限的啟發。

James, Stella, Mary, Heather and Linda. @maryamccartney @stellamccartney @jamesmccartneyofficial #LindaMcCartney #MaryMcCartney #StellaMcCartney #JamesMcCartney #PaulMcCartney #HappyEaster #Polaroid

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Apr 1, 2018 at 4:43am PDT

Paul #playing with daughter @maryamccartney in #Scotland Photo by #LindaMcCartney #PaulMcCartney #MaryMcCartney #ThrowbackThursday #TBT

A post shared by Paul McCartney (@paulmccartney) on Jan 22, 2015 at 9:44am PST

「我看了非常多媽媽的作品，而且得到很多啟發，不過多半是從捕捉動態的瞬間而來，不是爸爸穿了什麼外套或是一雙來自六○年代靴子，更多是關於一種生活方式，還有一種……毫不費力的感覺。」Stella McCartney在回顧母親的攝影作品時表示。

Self-portrait. London #LindaMcCartney #PaulMcCartney #London #1970 #Selfportrait #Seventies #Wings

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Feb 6, 2018 at 8:14am PST

On the set of "Give My Regards To Broad Street". 1983 #LindaMcCartney #Selfportrait #1983 #makeup

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Mar 28, 2018 at 8:43am PDT

Mary and Stella, Jamaica, 1975 @MaryaMcCartney @StellaMcCartney #LindaMcCartney #MaryMcCartney #StellaMcCartney #Summer #Jamaica #1975

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Jul 2, 2016 at 1:54am PDT

Martha and puppy, Scotland, 1973. #LindaMcCartney #PuppyLove #DogsOfInstagram #BeMine #ValentinesDay #HappyValentinesDay #Scotland #puppy #1973 #Martha

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Feb 14, 2016 at 1:25am PST

Paul McCartney說，Linda在拍照時從不會刻意要大家準備，她通常就是坐著和大家聊天，然後忽然拿起相機快照，過程中的對話完全不會被打斷，也正是如此才造就了她輕鬆自然的攝影風格，她所拍攝的一張Jimi Hendrix Experience的照片，便巧妙捕捉到Jimi Hendrix打呵欠的瞬間。

Self–portrait with Stella and Mary. Caribbean, 1979 @StellaMcCartney @MaryaMcCartney #LindaMcCartney #MaryMcCartney #StellaMcCartney #MaryMcCartney #HappyThanksgiving #Thanksgiving #Caribbean

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Nov 23, 2017 at 11:33am PST

The Jimi Hendrix Experience, London, 1967. #LindaMcCartney #JimiHendrix #JimiHendrixExperience #London #1967

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Jan 26, 2017 at 9:01am PST

「我認為這是她在那個時刻的說話方式，代表她自己的聲音。她被太多偉大的才華、自尊、性格圍繞，而以她的風格，她不會去挑戰他們，我想透過攝影，她用自己的方式把自己帶入那些對話。」Stella McCartney說。

Frosted rose. Sussex, 1978 #LindaMcCartney #Sussex #1978 #Rose #Winter

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Feb 26, 2018 at 9:31am PST

James, Scotland, 1984 #LindaMcCartney #JamesMcCartney #Scotland #1984

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Mar 6, 2018 at 7:32am PST

Heather. London, 1969 #LindaMcCartney #London #1969 #LetItBe

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Feb 12, 2018 at 4:42am PST

@lindamccartney James and Linda, London, 1981 From Linda McCartney"s book "Light from Within", 2000 #LindaMcCartney @jamesmccartneyofficial #London #selfie #JamesMcCartney #Repost

A post shared by Paul McCartney (@paulmccartney) on Nov 27, 2015 at 8:56am PST

倡導「素食時尚」其來有自

動物是McCartney家庭生活中非常重要的部分，Linda McCartney曾說，她不會吃任何有臉的生物。Stella McCartney的品牌自2001年創立以來，堅持不用動物皮革及皮草，這種極度尊重環境、人們與動物的態度，其實也是她從小受到父母潛移默化影響的結果。

Mary, Linda and Martha, Scotland, 1971 #LindaMcCartney #MaryMcCartney @MaryAMcCartney #Scotland #1971 #DogsofInstagram #OldEnglishSheepdog

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Sep 25, 2016 at 3:09am PDT

Paul and Lucky, Ireland, 1971 #LindaMcCartney #PaulMcCartney #Ireland #DogsOfInstagram #1971 #Lucky

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Aug 5, 2016 at 7:50am PDT

自1970年代起，Paul與Linda McCartney因不願意傷害動物而成為素食主義者，其後除了大力提倡素食，也為動物權利倡議，兩人可以算是英國上個世紀最有名的第一代素食者，八○年代以後，吃素開始在英國漸漸流行，他們的影響不可忽視。

「如果屠宰場的牆是玻璃做的，全世界都會吃素。」Linda和Paul McCartney經常這麼說。

在他們剛成為素食主義者時，要找到替代肉品的蛋白質來源不是件簡單的事，「我們一開始把肉想成是餐盤上空出的一個洞，所以得想出辦法把洞填起來。」Paul McCartney表示。

"My siblings and I were involved in the experience of cooking from a very early age. The kitchen was the centre of the universe and Mum got us involved, helping to cook and tasting…always tasting. Now with my own children, I try to get them involved." Mary McCartney Image: @lindamccartney

A post shared by Linda McCartney Foods (@lindamccartneyfoods) on Mar 11, 2018 at 3:11am PDT

We’ve always known we make the Best Vegan Sausage, thanks for voting in the Vegan Food UK awards and making it official! #InspiredByLinda #Vegan #Veganuary

A post shared by Linda McCartney Foods (@lindamccartneyfoods) on Jan 19, 2018 at 5:06am PST

為了填補這個空洞，尋找合適的烹飪方式及替代食材，Linda McCartney開始在自家研發食譜。1989年，她將多年來烹調心得集結成食譜《Linda McCartney"s Home Cooking》（Linda McCartney的家庭烹飪）出版，立即造成轟動，上市前幾個月就賣破40萬本，這對推廣素食而言是相當振奮的事。

「媽媽從來不介意人們模仿她，」Mary McCartney解釋道，「她只是希望有更多素的食物可以提供給所有人。」

食譜的成功，也讓Linda McCartney更積極地開思考要如何讓素食變得更容易，1991年她創立了冷凍食品公司Linda McCartney Foods，專門研發符合大眾口味的素食產品，新成立的公司很快就在英國市場獲得成功，成為首屈一指的素食食品大廠。

只願子女健康快樂的天下父母心
2017年11月，環保永續早已內化成為品牌DNA的Stella McCartney，獲頒英國時尚獎（British Fashion Awards）首度頒發的創新特別獎，時尚協會主席Natalie Massenet在形容Stella McCartney的成就時，稱她是「時尚先鋒」，「她證明了高端時尚與道德時尚（Ethical Fashion）結合在一起，可以創造驚人的成果，她對產業的創新方法對我們所有人都是啟發。」

除了使用永續再生材質，包括素食皮革（Vegetarian Leather）、有機棉、再生喀什米爾羊毛、回收尼龍紗線Econyl等，Stella McCartney還持續投入材質的創新研發。2017年7月，品牌宣佈與美國生物科技公司Bolt Threads合作開發新一代材質，目前已成功研發出一種用蘑菇根部菌絲製作的人造皮革。

除了材質的革新，品牌也致力投入推廣循環經濟，2017年10月宣佈與美國二手精品網站The RealReal合作，確保所生產的產品最後不會成為浪費，同時延續產品的生命週期。

We"re excited to announce a new partnership with biotechnology company, @BoltThreads! Paving the future for advanced and innovative textiles, Bolt Threads creates fibres from scratch based on proteins found in nature. In a continual pursuit for more sustainable materials, we are creating a vegan spider silk made from yeast! The first physical manifestation of this partnership will be featured in @TheMuseumofModernArt"s upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?", opening October 1st commissioned by #MoMA.

A post shared by Stella McCartney (@stellamccartney) on Jul 20, 2017 at 7:14am PDT

Receiving a humanitarian award for her contribution to fashion from Isabella Rossellini at the Women of Vision luncheon in New York where Stella was honoured. . #StellaMcCartney #StellaCares

A post shared by Stella McCartney (@stellamccartney) on May 9, 2018 at 4:23am PDT

Stella and Mary, Caribbean, 1976 From Linda"s book, "Life In Photographs" 2011 #LindaMcCartney #StellaMcCartney #MaryMcCartney #Holiday

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Jan 3, 2017 at 2:35am PST

Stella, Scotland, 1986 #LindaMcCartney #StellaMcCartney @stellamccartney #Scotland #1986

A post shared by Linda McCartney (@lindamccartney) on Aug 3, 2016 at 6:17am PDT

12歲時自己親手製作出第一件外套，1997年4月，25歲的Stella McCartney才剛從中央聖馬汀藝術設計學院（Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design）服裝設計系畢業近兩年，就被法國時尚品牌Chloé延攬擔任創意總監，接手Karl Lagerfeld的設計大任。

1997年10月，Linda McCartney親臨巴黎欣賞女兒執掌Chloé後的首場大秀，這個系列也是Stella McCartney獻給母親的系列。雖然Linda McCartney在1998年4月因乳癌過世，假如她在天有靈，會如何看待女兒今日的成就？「我想她只會希望我能快樂健康，」Stella McCartney說，「但我想，畢竟她是媽咪，而我是她的寶貝，我想她只想確保我一切順利。」

資料來源：The Guardian、Daily Mail、CBS、HuffPost UK、WWD、Forbes、BBC、The Guardian、Ultimate Classic Rock、Paul McCartney、Linda McCartney

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吃素也能好時髦！台北5家超美味「素食餐廳」連肉食控都跪下大口吃！