為何拍賣天價的「黑羊毛衣」就是黛安娜王妃最具代表的秋季穿搭?
黛安娜王妃最著名的一件秋季針織衫,事實上最初是在夏天穿的——而且當時她甚至還不是一位王妃。1981年6月,黛安娜史賓塞小姐(Lady Diana Spencer)身穿著一件來自英國針織品牌「Warm & Wonderful」的紅色套頭毛衣,出席位於溫莎史密斯草坪(Smith’s Lawn)的馬球比賽,為當時正在角逐女王盃的查爾斯王子加油。這品牌是由Sally Muir與Joanna Osborne共同創立,毛衣上織著整齊的白羊圖案,中間卻赫然夾雜著一隻獨特的黑羊。
雖然黛安娜過了好一段時間才公開提及自己在王室中感受到的格格不入,但這件毛衣隱喻的象徵意義早已不言而喻。當時她的衣櫥完全由自己掌控,尚未由英國版《Vogue》編輯團隊接手精緻化改造:那時的她是典型的「斯隆路人」(Sloane Ranger,指1980年代倫敦上流社會喜歡老派鄉村休閒與低調奢華風格的年輕貴族族群),偏愛開襟針織衫、珍珠項鍊與領巾,這種造型時至今日仍不斷被伸展台重新演繹。直到2019年,Harry Styles也曾穿上一件帶有相似綿羊圖案的Lanvin毛衣;次年,「Warm & Wonderful」更與「Rowing Blazers」合作重新推出了這款經典設計。
1980年的黛安娜。2023年,黛安娜王妃這件原版黑羊毛衣在拍賣會上以驚人的110萬美元(約新台幣3,500 萬元)天價成交。然而,若提到最能啟發大眾秋季日常穿搭靈感的,或許非她的維珍航空(Virgin Atlantic)衛衣莫屬。
最聰明的防狗仔秋季穿搭:單車褲與Virgin Atlantic長袖運動衫
就像她那些在社群上被無數次轉發的哈佛大學(Harvard)與西北大學(Northwestern)復古印花大學T 一樣,黛安娜王妃當年經常穿著這件長袖運動衫前往健身房——並巧妙搭配彈力單車短褲與復古厚底運動鞋。
這其實是一套非常精明的反狗仔媒體策略:只要她連續多次穿著同一套服裝現身,報社就不願意花高價購買狗仔隊拍攝到的「重複造型」照片。結果,這種看似隨性的運動混搭風反倒成為了她的標誌性造型。以至於2019年,Hailey Bieber在為《Vogue》拍攝時尚大片時也特別致敬重現了這身穿搭;而那件由Richard Branson親自贈送的大學T,後來也在拍賣會上以53,532美元成交。
前高級秀場編輯Laia Garcia-Furtado在2024年的一篇文章中便分析道:「這種搭配本身並不新穎——因為那本來就是當時人們健身時的穿著。但穿在她身上卻瞬間被賦予了全新的意義,或許是因為極少能看到像她這樣位高權重的人展現如此休閒的一面——當然,也是因為她個人身上那股難以言喻的獨特魅力。」
盤點黛安娜王妃35 經典秋季時尚瞬間
接下來請往下滑動,一起回顧黛安娜王妃歷年來展現「頂級秋季穿搭教科書」風格的所有經典時刻。
向下捲動,一睹黛安娜其他展現其無與倫比的秋季穿搭造詣的時刻。
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