這兩年來熱度不斷上升的暗黑先鋒品牌 Rick Owens 在上週於巴黎舉辦了品牌 2023 春夏男裝大秀。獨樹一格的審美加上頗具辨別性的秀場設計,Rick Owens 透過這場精彩的表演再次成功把自己推向了話題的尖端。
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 23: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Rick Owens Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 23, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
名為「Edfu」,這次大秀的靈感主要來自 Rick Owens 一次埃及的旅行。一向對於古埃及美感十分著迷的 Rick Owens 在造訪埃及的時候再次受到啟發,決定將這次秀的主題定為埃及文化。例如結尾的幾個 Look 中的薄紗套裝,內部的一體式洋服的設計酷似埃及傳統服飾卡里西里斯(calasiris),而外面的一層薄紗 Rick Owens 本人則幽默的表示說他單純只是當時在埃及想找類似的服飾來防蚊。
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 23: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Rick Owens Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 23, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
接下來看到服飾,這季最大的兩個亮點無非就是各型各色的牛仔褲。雖然這兩年來 Rick Owens 早就已經不再是只有黑白灰三色的品牌了,不過這次所推出的造型上的顏色實在太狂。芥末色的半透明西裝外套配上金龜子配色的喇叭褲,或甚至是獨家獸配色的魚皮馬甲配上黃色蛇紋闊腿褲,Rick Owens 在這個系列中完美駕馭了這些令人難以想像的色彩搭配。順道一提,這些半透明的西裝大衣皆是由皮革製成,特別的染色過程令這些衣服在視覺上有種透明的感覺。
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 23: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Rick Owens Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 23, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 23: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Rick Owens Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 23, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
之外,這次 Rick Owens 大秀非常令人印象深刻的還有他當場的火球表演。原本在水裡的巨大的球狀物體在被大型機器吊起之後點火,在空中不斷燃燒,直到被放下後再次掉到水裡火才隨著熄滅。Rick Owens 這樣的一個表演背後想傳達的意境是人類不斷紛爭的本性。就像這一顆顆火球一樣,人們從和平進入爭吵,再從爭吵回到和平,火被點燃之後終究會熄滅,熄滅之後有朝一日又會被點燃,這樣一個反覆的過程。