上週日早晨，Dover Street Market 巴黎新店的頂樓展間熱鬧非凡。買手們正仔細瀏覽零售商孵化的品牌，包括 ERL、Rassvet 和 Phileo。而與這些熟悉名字並列的，還有一個嶄新名字——印在入口門上的標誌：「DSM Brand」。
這是 Dover Street Market 自 2004 年創立以來，首次推出的自有服裝系列，由 Noir 設計師 二宮啟（Kei Ninomiya） 操刀設計。
這不是 Noir，這是 Dover Street Market 的靈魂
二宮啟（Kei Ninomiya）
身穿全黑、頂著標誌性莫霍克髮型的二宮啟，在現場分享他對這個系列的構思：「這與我平常設計的 Noir 完全不同，這是一個來自 DSM 的原創品牌。我想了解它的哲學、身份與 DNA。」他解釋道，DSM 是一個國際化、充滿多元文化的社群：「這裡有來自世界各地的設計師與顧客，就像一個沒有名字的團隊。所以我想為他們設計衣服。」
學院風制服，變身全球時尚兄弟會識別
本系列從學校制服的概念出發，打造出專屬於 DSM 的「新學期制服」：無領校服剪裁的聚酯夾克（深栗色與黑色），帶有 DSM 自創徽章的設計，其中一個版本配有兜帽，象徵性的大象圖騰——源自 2015 年 Gucci 在 DSM 銀座裝置的藝術作品。這隻大象成為系列核心意象，出現在 DSMU 運動服上，包括球衣、長褲、T-shirt、襪子與運動外套。此外，系列還包含：學校風格領帶，開襟學院毛衣與針織衫，百褶裙與英國老牌 duffle coat 製造商 Gloverall 合作的趣味針織外套。
從 DSM 家族，到世界各地街頭
這個 DSM 品牌系列將於 全球所有 Dover Street Market 分店上架銷售，並計劃以批發形式引進尚未設點的城市。值得一提的是，本次造型型錄（Lookbook）尚在製作中，模特不僅有 DSM 店員，還包括品牌好友與文化人物，如 Carla Sozzani、ASAP Nast、Olivier Saillard 以及 Jean-Baptiste Talbourdet-Napoleone。
下一步：從內部孵化，到外部聯名？
這只是 DSM 品牌的第一章。據悉，二宮啟將持續負責未來幾季的設計，但未來 DSM 也不排除與其他品牌展開合作。這個充滿實驗精神與制服情懷的新企劃，讓人期待 DSM 如何持續為全球時尚社群打造獨有身份與風格的語彙。
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