Rediscovering U Thong

Stepping into the newly revitalised U Thong National Museum in Suphan Buri, Central Thailand, visitors are instantly transported to the ancient city of U Thong, a once-thriving hub of the Dvaravati culture.

At the heart of this immersive experience is the museum’s crown jewel: the Dharmachakra, complete with its base and the only fully intact pillar in Thailand.

This artefact stands as a symbol of the city’s rich heritage and spiritual significance.

The museum is undergoing a transformative five-phase project from 2021 to 2025, aiming to elevate its status to an international cultural and educational destination.

With modernised exhibition spaces and contemporary display techniques, the ancient history of U Thong is today more accessible and engaging than ever before.

Entering the first exhibition hall, visitors are greeted by a panoramic video presentation, “Dvaravati: The Dawn of Thai History”.

This immersive introduction sets the stage, recounting the tale of the Ancient City of U Thong and its pivotal role in the Dvaravati culture.

The visuals highlight the city’s interactions with foreign lands, where Indian civilisation’s influences permeated local traditions, shaping religion, monarchy, art, scripts, and language.

U Thong (or “Cradle of Gold”) was a thriving cultural and commercial hub during the Dvaravati period (6th-11th Centuries AD).

It served as a major centre for trade and religious activities, as is evident from the numerous artefacts and relics unearthed here, including pottery, inscriptions, and Buddha images.

The city’s strategic location on the trade routes between the Gulf of Thailand and the central plains facilitated its growth and prosperity.

Excavations at U Thong by Prince Damrong Rajanubhab and George Cœdès in the early 20th century uncovered significant artefacts and structures from the Dvaravati period. These discoveries underscore U Thong’s historical, cultural, and religious significance, cementing its status as a prominent tourism destination.

As you move deeper into the museum, the exhibit “The Ancient City of U Thong: The Earliest Centre of Dvaravati Culture” comes into view.

Here, the story unfolds through a remarkable collection of artefacts.

A Roman coin from the reign of Emperor Victorinus has been discovered at U Thong Historical Park.//Photo: Fine Arts Department

A Roman coin from Emperor Victorinus, fragments of Middle Eastern ceramics, Arabic coins, and Chinese ceramics narrate U Thong’s significance as a key junction in the trade routes of Suvarnabhumi.

The exhibit also includes a topographical model and a compelling video presentation, bringing the ancient city to life.

Continuing on, visitors reach “Archaeology of U Thong: 1903 – Present”.

This section delves into the milestones of archaeological research in U Thong, beginning with Prince Damrong Rajanubhab’s inspection in 1903 and extending to the ongoing excavations by the Fine Arts Department.

The displays feature artefacts unearthed from Buddhist stupas and viharas, as well as Brahmanical-Hindu religious sites. Notable items include a Dvaravati-period Buddha statue in the teaching posture, found at Stupa No. 11, providing a tangible link to the past.

The journey then leads to the “Dvaravati Stupas, Viharas and Ancient Sites” exhibit.

This area showcases the architectural ingenuity of the Dvaravati period, featuring ceremonial bricks used in auspicious rituals for constructing religious sites, along with intricate stucco and terracotta sculptures that adorned these sacred structures.

Unlike the typical bell-shaped stupas of Sukhothai and the Prang (Khmer-style) of Ayutthaya, Dvaravati stupas are unique due to their “Yok Ket” projections and “Bua Walai” bases with intricate lotus mouldings and compartmentalised decorations.

Visitors to this gallery will be captivated by the detailed craftsmanship and symbolic artistry of the Dvaravati period.

In the adjacent room, “Beads and Gold Jewellery: Treasures Reflecting the Prosperity of Ancient U Thong” captures the eye. The display gleams with carnelian and agate beads imported from India, Dvaravati-era gold jewellery, and terracotta figures of dancers.

These treasures highlight the city’s affluence and the sophisticated decorative arts of the Dvaravati period.

U Thong has been a significant site for over 2,000 years, evidenced by the discovery of a 3rd-century Roman coin. The city’s moated layout, linked to the Tha Chin River, facilitated its access to international trade routes.

The early inhabitants of this Classic Southeast Asian civilisation were remarkably affluent, possessing extensive collections of ornate jewellery, including beads imported from India.

The abundance of gold in U Thong and its surrounding regions led to their designation in Sanskrit as Suvarnabhumi, meaning the Golden Land.

The beads on display are particularly significant because they reveal much about trade, craftsmanship, and social practices in ancient Southeast Asia.

These beads, often made from materials like glass, semi-precious stones, and shells, were used in various ways, including as adornments, symbols of status, and offerings.

The diversity in the bead types and materials reflects the region’s extensive trade networks and cultural exchanges with neighbouring civilisations.

The gold jewellery exhibit, on the other hand, features exquisite pieces that demonstrate the advanced metalworking skills of the time. Items such as the Golden Buddha Head Statue, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings showcase intricate designs and high-quality craftsmanship.

The head of a golden Buddha statue, dating back 1,200 to 1,400 years, discovered at the archaeological site of the Ancient City of U Thong. //Photo: Fine Arts Department

The use of gold not only signifies the wealth and status of the wearer but also highlights the artistry and technical expertise of the period’s jewellers.

These pieces often feature motifs and designs that are symbolic or carry religious significance, offering insights into the spiritual and social life of ancient communities.

Finally, the “Religion and Beliefs” section offers a deep dive into the spiritual life of ancient U Thong. It explores the predominant practice of Theravada Buddhism, the presence of Mahayana Buddhism, and traces of Brahmanical-Hindu beliefs.

A fired clay tablet with the inscription of the Ye Dhamma verse, the core teaching of Buddhism.//Photo: Fine Arts Department

Artefacts such as terracotta figures of monks holding alms bowls inscribed with the crucial Buddhist mantra “Ye dharma”, images of Buddhist disciples with inscriptions, a golden Buddha head, a unique mukhalinga, and figurines of people with monkeys provide a fascinating glimpse into the religious practices and beliefs that shaped the city.

As visitors traverse the halls of the U Thong National Museum, they embark on a rich narrative journey, uncovering the layers of history that define the ancient city of U Thong.

Each exhibit reveals a piece of the puzzle, offering insights into the Dvaravati culture and its enduring legacy.

With its blend of modern presentation techniques and priceless historical artefacts, the U Thong National Museum stands as a beacon of cultural preservation and education, inviting travellers to explore the depths of Thailand's illustrious past.

PLANING YOUR TRIP

The U Thong National Museum is situated a convenient two-hour drive (130 kilometres) north-west of Bangkok and just 30 minutes south of Suphan Buri town centre.

Visitors can catch one of six daily air-conditioned buses departing between 8am and 6 pm from Building D (Ticket Counter D7) at Bangkok Terminal (Mo Chit) to U Thong District.

Upon arrival, a local taxi can be taken to the museum, located only five kilometres south of the town centre.

The museum is open from Wednesday to Sunday, including public holidays, between 9 am and 4 pm. Admission fees are THB 30 for Thai citizens and THB 150 for international guests.

For more information, call +66 0 3555 1021 or visit the museum’s Facebook page at [U Thong National Museum](https://www.facebook.com/Uthongmuseum/).