Food to Go: food preservation traditions in Southeast Asia

After a bountiful harvest, our Southeast Asian forefathers would use different methods to preserve the freshness of fruits and vegetables and prevent them from rotting.

They did the same after the slaughter of an animal or after a big catch from the sea, so that their food supply would last longer without spoiling.

Food preservation refers to any method used to keep food from spoilage. Among the earliest methods of food preservation are drying and fermentation, while modern techniques include canning, pasteurization, freezing, and the adding of chemicals or preservatives.

Today’s modern packaging materials also play a role in modern food preservation.

With the prevalence of modern food preservation technologies, are there still many people in the region who practice these traditional food preservation methods?

“Contrary to what many believe, food preservation is not only about ensuring food supply in times of scarcity. Even when food is abundant, some people practice food preservation as an art, in order to provide variation in cooking and food preparation. Sadly, in some communities, food preservation as a home activity is gradually disappearing,” laments Mira, a food historian.

Respect and appreciation

Traditional preservation methods have roots in ancient civilizations that used fermentation for bread and cheese, as well as drying food in the sun to prevent mould and bacteria growth.

“Traditional food preservation techniques practiced by our ancestors date back to prehistoric times. The historical significance of these traditions illustrates a deep respect and appreciation for the bounty of nature while promoting the health of the community. Enhancing the flavor of the preserved food, I believe, was just a bonus,” Pepe, chef and owner of an Italian restaurant, tells Thai PBS World.

“Those who practice traditional food preservation techniques rely on locally available resources. The tradition also often involved the participation of people in the village, making it a collective effort that promoted a sense of community. In that regard, the tradition is considered an important part of one’s cultural heritage,” adds Jeff, a student of culinary arts and food history.

Rice is life

Considered as the most common food in the region, rice is a staple in many Asian households.

The proper storage of cooked rice is important for maintaining the quality, freshness, and safety of this particular dish that many Asians cannot seem to live without.

“When not stored properly, cooked rice can pose serious health concerns. It is a careful process. Across Asia, different countries and cultures have developed unique techniques and traditions for storing cooked rice. It is part of the region’s rich cultural diversity,” Niki, a restaurant owner, explains.

Even with the challenges associated with storing cooked rice, many Asian countries have developed clever ways of preserving rice quality and safety the traditional way.

“In Southeast Asia, the traditional way of storing cooked rice is by putting it in bamboo containers or packs that help keep the rice dry and protected from contaminants. Leaves of certain plants like banana and pandan are used as a lining to prevent the moisture from seeping in. Another traditional method is storing cooked rice in a clay pot covered with a tight lid to keep the freshness in. Some people add a small amount of oil or sesame seeds to prevent dryness,” says food historian Mira.

Added flavor

For other foods, the traditional preservation methods involve dehydration, fermentation, and curing. These techniques used for storing meat, fish, fruits, and vegetables not only extend the life of the food but also add unique flavors.

“Sun drying is believed to be the oldest traditional technique and one of the most effective. Modern methods may be efficient and fast but traditional food drying is more sustainable as it relies on natural resources and is therefore more environmentally friendly,” Chef Pepe explains.

Fermentation is a traditional method of preservation that not only keeps the food safe but also enhances its flavor and nutritional value.

Some examples of fermented foods are kimchi and pickles. In Thailand, fermented fish and pork have long been an integral part of Thai cuisine.

“Northern Thai people take pride in their fermented pork sausage called naem. It is a fermented sausage made with pork, sticky rice, garlic, chili, and shredded pork skin. The mixture is tightly wrapped in banana leaves and fermented for several days and is used as a main ingredient in many Thai dishes,” restaurant owner Niki says.

Smoking is also one of the oldest food preservation techniques, along with salt curing, lactic fermentation, and preserving in oil or vinegar.

In Vietnam, fish such as mackerel and tuna are often salted to increase their shelf life and enhance the flavor when cooked. In the Philippines, the popular meat dish called adobo actually lasts for several days without spoiling because it is cooked in vinegar.

Still relevant

Some of these traditional food preservation practices may not be as popular today due to more modern techniques.

However, these traditions show how our ancestors turned to nature for survival, thus demonstrating the lasting impact of traditional knowledge on contemporary practices.

Moreover, these old traditions also provide us with inspiration in terms of promoting sustainability and reducing food wastage in today’s modern world.

(This story is part of a series about the vanishing cultural traditions in Southeast Asia.)