A Last Look at a Living Chapter of Bangkok History
Art and history enthusiasts have until the end of September to explore the Main Building of Thewet Palace before Deva Manor, the café on its ground floor, closes permanently to the public.
Housed in a former royal residence dating back to the reign of King Rama V, the building is much more than the setting for a café. Once home to the ancestors of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother, it was also a place where Kings Rama VI and Rama VII spent time at leisure.
Deva Manor announced on its Facebook page that it will cease operations after six years, as preparations begin to hand the historic building over to the care of His Majesty’s Principal Private Secretary.
According to the announcement, the move is in line with His Majesty’s intention to conserve the Grand Villa, formerly associated with the Kitiyakara family.
Until the end of September, the public can visit Deva Manor daily from 10 am to 10 pm. Special talks by the building’s caretaker, Col Fuangvich Aniruth-deva, take place every Saturday and Sunday throughout the month.
Beyond the à la carte menu, visitors wishing to explore the artistic and historical background of this “Pak Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem Palace” (the other name of the palace) can book a special lunch or dinner. Reservation details are available on Deva Manor’s Facebook page.
A Royal Residence Through the Years
Completed in 1896, the building was commissioned by King Rama V (King Chulalongkorn) for his 12th son, Prince Kitiyakara Voralaksana, later the 1st Prince of Chanthaburi, who resided there until his death in 1931.
The property was later sold to Chao Phraya Aniruth-deva and passed into the care of the Aniruth-deva family. Following Chao Phraya Aniruth-deva’s death in 1951, the Grand Villa remained closed for 56 years. Determined to preserve its original artistry and character, his grandson, Col Fuangvich Aniruth-deva, embarked on a meticulous renovation project, researching historical references and removing later additions in an effort to restore the building as closely as possible to its original design.
“Anyone who appreciates the history and architecture of this villa is welcome,” Col Fuangvich said during a tour of the property.
“In order to restore the building to its original design, I had to conduct extensive research using historical references. I also removed non-original additions,” he explained.
Pre-booked tours offer a deeper exploration of the villa’s architecture and history. Led on occasion by the caretaker himself, artefacts, décor and architectural details are used to bring the palace’s past to life.
Gems of the Era
The colonial-style building reflects the reign of King Rama V, when European architectural influences were increasingly visible in Siam’s royal and civic buildings. Italian architect Carlo Allegri combined European elements with features suited to the tropical climate.
Italian influence is evident throughout the property. The second-floor living area features a striking stained-glass window from Milan, reminiscent of those found in the Duomo cathedral.
“The original stained glass is still intact,” Col Fuangvich said. “Only a few transparent sections were replaced to maintain its beauty.”
Visitors can easily picture important figures from that era conversing in this light-filled, airy space, framed by European-style stained glass and flanked by Greek Ionic columns. Designed before the arrival of electricity, the building also features gingerbread-style woodwork crafted to enhance airflow through the rooms.
The Grand Villa contains 14 rooms. While the ground floor houses the café, the second floor features bedrooms in a variety of styles. An octagonal bedroom at the rear, once used as a guest room, overlooks the royal residence of the Kitiyakara family, where HM Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother spent her childhood.
The largest and most significant space is the Phra Samran room at the front of the building, where guests were traditionally received. The grand function room served as an informal meeting and dining space for former Siamese monarchs. At its large wooden table are chairs used by King Rama VI, along with tableware bearing the Phraya Aniruth-deva emblem. The room also looks out over the garden.
The experience extends far beyond the grand architecture to encompass historical decorative items and tableware. Every corner of the Grand Villa whispers a tale of Thai history. Paintings and photographs of prominent figures adorn the walls alongside antique furniture from an era heavily influenced by Western art following King Rama V’s European travels. The Thai artefacts housed within the villa hold invaluable cultural worth.
As a proud caretaker, Col Fuangvich hopes the property will inspire younger generations to appreciate art and history. The opening of the cafe served primarily as a draw for food and drinks, but the true goal was to offer the public an opportunity to appreciate the culture and history of this palace treasure.