Temples, elephants, and tales of Siam

Thailand, now one of the world’s most-visited destinations, was once an enigma to the Europeans.

In the late 19th century, Siam, as it was then known, began offering a glimpse into its unknown kingdom through the expedition of Norwegian ethnographer Carl Bock.

Bock’s journey, undertaken with the blessing of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), is now on display in an exhibition at the National Library in Bangkok.

The exhibition “Siam Through the Pages of Temples and Elephants” is worth a visit for anyone wanting to immerse themselves in Siam as it was during the reign of King Rama V. It offers a rare opportunity to step back in time and experience the kingdom through Bock’s eyes.

Bock’s journey began in 1881, an era when Siam was navigating its place in a world dominated by European colonial powers.

With King Chulalongkorn’s support, Bock embarked on an expedition that took him through uncharted territories and mystic lands, documenting his encounters in sketches and vivid narratives.

The exhibition, showing in the National Library’s Wachirayan Rooms, offers a stunning collection of Bock’s original sketches, glass plates and pages from his book.

Photo: A sketch of a Siamese in full dress kneeling down to show respect to another.//Photo: Fine Arts Department

These artifacts bring to life the lush landscapes, intricate temples, and diverse communities he encountered, providing a rare glimpse into a Siam that few outsiders had ever seen.

Among the highlights are Bock’s meticulous sketches of elephants, temples, and rural life. One standout piece features an elephant adorned with a traditional saddle as it wades through a river.

The intricacy of the drawing captures not just the elephant's majesty but also the practicalities of travel in 19th-century Siam.

Another striking work is his sketched elevation of a Buddhist temple along the Mae Kok River in Chiang Rai, where the temple structures are set against a backdrop of lush mountains.

Each reflects Bock’s keen eye for detail and fascination with both the cultural and natural landscapes of Siam.

Bock set out on an expedition that led him through unknown territories and lands steeped in mystery.//Photo: Fine Arts Department

The title of the exhibition, “Siam Through the Pages of Temples and Elephants,” underscores the enduring legacy of Bock’s work.

His book was a revelation in its time, translated into multiple European languages, including English, German, and French. It opened a window to a world that few Europeans had imagined, painting Siam as a land of sophistication, rich traditions, and natural beauty.

For European readers, Bock’s observations challenged stereotypes of the East as uncivilized and instead highlighted the kingdom’s cultural depth and progressive leadership under King Rama V.

The exhibition complements Bock’s writings with additional artifacts, including archival photographs from the National Archives and video presentations exploring Siam’s diplomatic ties with Europe.

Visitors can also explore a digital version of “Temples and Elephants” in five languages, alongside a curated selection of 32 related books. These resources provide a comprehensive view of Siam’s interactions with Europe and its evolving identity during a transformative era.

Visitors admire a portrait of King Chulalongkorn during their visit to the exhibition ‘Siam Through the Pages of Temples and Elephants.’//Photo: Fine Arts Department

Bock’s journey would not have been possible without the support of King Rama V and the Siamese royal court.

Recognizing the importance of presenting Siam in a positive light to the West, the king granted Bock the resources and access needed to travel through remote and often challenging regions.

This collaboration was part of King Chulalongkorn’s broader strategy to modernize Siam while maintaining its independence amidst the pressures of European colonialism.

Bock’s writings and illustrations played a subtle but significant role in enhancing Siam’s image abroad, paving the way for King Chulalongkorn’s diplomatic journey to Europe in 1897.

Bock’s observations challenged the prevailing stereotypes of the East as uncivilized, instead showcasing the cultural richness of the kingdom.//Photo: Fine Arts Department

By showcasing the kingdom’s rich culture and progressive leadership, his work complemented the king’s diplomatic efforts and contributed to the perception of Siam as a nation capable of modernizing on its own terms.

In an age of instant information and global connectivity, it is easy to forget how much effort it once took to understand a distant land.

Bock’s journey reminds us of the value of slow, thoughtful exploration and the power of storytelling to bridge cultural divides.

His work not only documented the landscapes and traditions of Siam but also reflected the curiosity and respect of a traveller who sought to learn rather than judge.

Carl Bock’s sketch shows that the domesticated elephant played an important part in a journey across

Siam.//Photo: Fine Arts Department

“Siam Through the Pages of Temples and Elephants” invites visitors to pause and reflect on Siam’s past and the enduring legacy of its people and traditions. As you wander through the displays, you may find yourself transported to a time when elephants roamed the forests, temples stood as beacons of faith, and the rhythms of life moved to a slower, more deliberate pace."

Plan Your Visit

The exhibition runs until February 28 at the National Library of Thailand in Dusit District, Bangkok. Viewing hours are Monday to Friday from 9am to 4pm and Saturday to Sunday from 9am to 5pm (closed on public holidays).