Watches and Wonders 2025: 3 record-breaking timepieces

In addition to the likes of the Land-Dweller and Tank Á Guichets, which stole the spotlight at Watches and Wonders, three record-breaking timepieces proved that the spirit of mechanical innovation is alive and well.

MOST COMPLICATED WRISTWATCH

With a total of 41 complications in a 45mm case measuring nearly 15mm in height, the Les Cabinotier Solaria Ultra Grand Complication from Vacheron Constantin is now the most complicated wristwatch ever made. This feat almost matches another one of its masterpieces, the Reference 57260—the only difference is that that was a pocket watch that still holds the record for being the most complicated watch with 57 complications.

Read more: Vacheron Constantin revives the classic Historiques 222 in steel

The front of Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch

The result of eight years of research and development, it boasts 13 pending patents, including four rare astronomical complications that centre around the Sun, as well as, for the first time ever in a watch, a temporal tracking of celestial objects. This world premiere can make the astonishing calculation of the time it takes for a constellation or a given star to appear in the middle of the observer’s field of vision. The watch also features a minute repeater with a Westminster chime.

We’ll do a deeper dive into this extraordinary watch in Tatler GMT July 2025 issue.

See also: Reviving iconic watch designs from the past

The back of Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

LIGHTEST MECHANICAL DIVE WATCH

Weighing only 52g with strap—46g without—the Ulysse Nardin Diver [Ais] is the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch. No stranger to this type of innovation, Ulysse Nardin revisited the Diver X Skeleton UN-372 movement to develop the UN-374 that has even less material than its predecessor.

With reduced mass, there is the risk of reduced resilience but the manufacture worked around the issue by shaping the bridges into triangles, a rigid shape found in engineering and architecture. The components are made entirely from titanium. The result is an internal watch that is 80 per cent air and only 20 per cent movement, with the skeletonised calibre able to withstand an impact of 5’000g.

The lightest mechanical dive watch, Ulysse Nardin Diver [Air] comes with ultralight, elasticated white and orange straps

Despite skeletal features. performance has not been compromised either. The mainspring barrel, reconfigured into a flying arrangement, can store up to 90 hours of power when fully wound.

The case is composed of a number of lightweight materials—recycled titanium for the middle case, Nylo-Foil (a unique blend of 60 per cent Nylo and 40 per cent carbon fibre) for the case sides, and CarbonFoil for the bezel inserts.

Read more: Why the Freak watch is still so cool, according to Matthieu Haverlan of Ulysse Nardin

THINNEST FLYING TOURBILLON

Bvlgari has done it again—with the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, its ever-expanding portfolio of ultra-thin timepieces now includes the thinnest flying tourbillon ever made. This feat demonstrates Bvlgari’s unique expertise in extreme skeletonisation without compromising performance and aesthetics.

See also: Move over Bvlgari and Richard Mille, this is thinnest mechanical watch ever

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is the thinnest tourbillon watch

The watch measures only 1.85mm thick, breaking Bvlgari’s own record in 2014 by 0.1mm. The case middle, bezel, and lugs are crafted from microbead-frosted titanium, complete with a matching bracelet. The main plate is tungsten carbide. The manual-winding BVF 900 tourbillon calibre beats at 4 Hz and offers a 42-hour power reserve.

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