Hugo’s introduces classic canard à la presse

At Hugo’s, canard à la presse is treated not as theatre, but as tradition. The classic French dish, rooted in Rouen and long associated with Paris’s grand dining rooms, is prepared in its proper form, using the time-honoured technique that presses the duck to extract its essence for a deeply flavoured, velvety sauce.

The duck is sourced from Maison Miéral, the revered French farm established in 1919, known for free-range birds raised on natural diets. At the table, a solid brass duck press—imported from France—is used to complete the dish in full view of diners. It’s a rare sight in Hong Kong, and a reminder that some rituals endure not because they impress, but because they work.

Executive sous chef Lewis Scarfe (Photo: courtesy of Hugo’s)

The process at Hugo’s begins with the duck lightly roasted. The breast is carved and set aside, while the carcass is placed into the brass press. As the wheel turns, juices, marrow and flavour are slowly extracted, then whisked with brandy to form a deep, glossy sauce. The breast is served with this sauce and finished with a light mist of Mas Amiel 1969. The confit leg follows as a parmentier, enriched with black truffle. It is a rare tableside ritual in Hong Kong, where technique and flavour are given equal weight.

Canard à la presse at Hugo’s is available at HK$1,888, with 24 hours’ advance order required. To book, click here.