Before air conditioning, there were cold noodles: a brief history of chilled bowls, from naengmyeon to zaru soba
On hot days, a bowl of cold noodles can feel like relief in tangible form. Long before modern air conditioning, people across Asia turned to chilled noodles to beat the heat, creating dishes that balance flavour, texture and refreshment. Cold noodles have evolved within local traditions, from the thin, chewy naengmyeon of Korea to the simple elegance of Japan’s zaru soba. Each bowl reflects the ingredients and climate of its region, proving that cool, satisfying noodles are a culinary invention that transcends borders. Whether served in a tangy broth, with icy vegetables or alongside dipping sauces, cold noodles provide a methodical, centuries-old response to summer’s heat, combining practicality with taste.
Naengmyeon: Korea’s icy innovation
Naengmyeon offers icy broth and chewy noodles topped with crisp cucumber and pear, a refreshing Korean summer staple (Photo: Crystal Jo/Unsplash)
Naengmyeon, originating in northern Korea, has roots in the cold, harsh winters of regions like Pyongyang and Hamhung, where early versions were made from buckwheat or sweet potato starch, sometimes combined with arrowroot or other local grains. The noodles themselves are long, thin and remarkably chewy, providing a distinct texture that sets them apart from typical wheat noodles. Traditionally, they are served in a chilled broth made from beef, dongchimi (radish water kimchi) or a combination of the two, creating a clean, slightly tangy flavour that refreshes as it satisfies.
Toppings are integral to the dish. Slices of crisp cucumber, tender pear and boiled egg add contrast in texture and temperature, while cold slices of meat or kimchi enhance savoury depth. In the early 20th century, naengmyeon was associated with winter delicacies and royal cuisine, but it gradually became a summer staple, especially after the introduction of refrigeration in urban restaurants.
The modern spread of naengmyeon reflects both regional pride and practical adaptation. Pyongyang-style naengmyeon features a clear, mild broth with softer noodles, while Hamhung-style focuses on spicy, cold noodle dishes often served dry with a chilli-based sauce. Despite these variations, the essential qualities of naengmyeon—its icy chill, chewy texture and careful balance of toppings—have remained unchanged. Today, naengmyeon is enjoyed across Korea and internationally, illustrating how cold noodles can evolve from regional necessity to global culinary icon.
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Hiyashi chuka: Japan’s cold ramen bowl
Hiyashi chuka features cold ramen noodles dressed in soy or sesame sauce, layered with colourful toppings for a cool Japanese meal (Photo: Japan Creative Center/Instagram)
Hiyashi chuka, literally “chilled Chinese”, represents Japan’s inventive response to summer heat, adapting Chinese-style wheat noodles into a dish tailored for the hot months. The noodles, typically thin and springy, are boiled, rinsed in cold water to firm their texture and served cold, providing a refreshing base for the season.
The toppings are carefully arranged for both taste and visual appeal. Shredded omelette, thinly sliced cucumber, tomatoes, ham, crab sticks and sometimes boiled shrimp or char siu pork are layered over the noodles, creating a balance of colour, flavour and texture. The sauces—commonly a soy-based dressing with vinegar and sugar, or a creamy sesame-based dressing—coat the noodles without overpowering them, allowing the ingredients to remain distinct yet harmonious.
Hiyashi chuka emerged in the early 20th century, gaining popularity in Tokyo ramen shops as a seasonal summer menu item. It reflects Japan’s broader approach to food presentation, where aesthetic balance and the interplay of flavours and textures are as important as taste. The dish can be simple and homey, yet in restaurants it is often elevated with more intricate garnishes, from pickled ginger to thinly sliced nori.
Hiyashi chuka can accommodate seasonal vegetables or local proteins, and the dressing can range from tart and tangy to rich and nutty. In this way, it demonstrates how cold noodles in Japan evolved beyond a practical solution for heat into a dish that celebrates freshness, variety and careful culinary composition.
Zaru soba: elegance in simplicity
Zaru soba presents buckwheat noodles on a bamboo tray with a clean dipping sauce, exemplifying minimalist Japanese elegance (Photo: Japan Centre)
Zaru soba is a quintessential Japanese cold noodle dish that exemplifies minimalism and seasonal sensibility. Made from 100 per cent buckwheat flour or a blend with wheat for added elasticity, the noodles are boiled briefly, then rinsed thoroughly in ice-cold water to firm their texture and remove excess starch. This process ensures a springy bite and a clean, earthy flavour that forms the foundation of the dish.
The noodles are traditionally served on a bamboo tray, or zaru, which allows excess water to drain and adds a subtle natural aroma. Accompanying the noodles is tsuyu, a soy-based dipping sauce typically seasoned with mirin and dashi. Simple garnishes such as freshly grated wasabi, chopped scallions and sometimes nori strips complete the dish. Diners dip each bite into the sauce, combining the nutty, slightly bitter flavour of the buckwheat with the savoury, umami-rich liquid.
Zaru soba’s history traces back to Edo-period Japan, where soba became widely consumed for both everyday meals and ceremonial occasions. Over time, the chilled preparation gained prominence as a summer dish, providing a refreshing alternative to heavier, hot meals during sweltering months. The dish also embodies Japanese culinary principles: highlighting seasonal ingredients, valuing texture and balance and relying on minimal seasoning to enhance, rather than mask, the natural qualities of the food.
Despite its simplicity, zaru soba demands technical skill. Noodles must be kneaded, rolled and cut precisely to ensure uniform cooking, while the tsuyu must be carefully balanced to complement, not overwhelm, the delicate buckwheat flavour. In contemporary cuisine, chefs continue to explore variations—adding citrus zest, cold broths or seasonal vegetables—yet the core appeal remains: a bowl of cold noodles that celebrates restraint, clarity and refinement.
Liangpi: China’s refreshing wheat noodles
Liangpi combines soft, slippery wheat or rice noodles with tangy, spicy dressing, a popular cooling street-food dish from northern China (Photo: Xian Foods/Instagram)
Liangpi, which translates to “cold skin”, is a staple of northern Chinese cuisine, particularly in Shaanxi and neighbouring provinces, where hot summers historically demanded light, cooling dishes. The noodles are not traditional boiled strands but rather thin sheets made from wheat or rice flour dough that is washed, steamed and then cut into wide, slippery strips. This technique gives liangpi its characteristic soft yet slightly chewy texture, allowing it to absorb the dressing while maintaining a distinct bite.
The dressing is central to the dish’s appeal. A combination of soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, garlic and chilli oil creates a balance of savoury, tangy and spicy flavours. Additional ingredients like shredded cucumber, bean sprouts, pickled vegetables and occasionally gluten strips add crunch and contrast. The interplay of textures and temperatures—cold noodles, crisp vegetables and spicy dressing—defines the experience, making liangpi particularly satisfying in sweltering weather.
Liangpi’s origins trace back to Shaanxi province, where it developed as a practical street food. Vendors often serve it in paper bowls, sometimes topped with crushed peanuts or sesame seeds, allowing passersby to enjoy a portable, refreshing meal. Regional variations exist: in Xi’an, spicy, numbing versions incorporate Sichuan pepper and chilli paste, while other northern styles focus on mild, vinegar-forward dressings. Despite these differences, liangpi maintains its core identity as a cold, texturally complex dish designed for summer consumption.
The popularity of liangpi has spread beyond northern China, appearing in restaurants across the country and in Chinese diaspora communities. Modern chefs experiment with fusion toppings—kimchi, shredded chicken or even seafood—but the essence remains: a bowl of cold noodles dressed for refreshment, showcasing how Chinese culinary traditions adapt to climate, taste preferences and available ingredients. Liangpi demonstrates that cold noodles are not only practical but also a canvas for creativity, regional identity and texture-driven enjoyment.
Beyond summer dining
Cold noodles continue to thrive in contemporary cuisine, appearing in casual and fine dining alike. Chefs experiment with fusion ingredients, ice-cold broths and novel garnishes, but the underlying appeal remains unchanged: a bowl of noodles chilled to perfection provides relief, balance and satisfaction. From Korea to Japan and beyond, cold noodles prove their enduring presence in culinary history, offering a methodical, temperature-conscious approach to summer dining and beyond.
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