What’s hot for spring-summer 2026? High-octane hues at Valentino and Alaïa, and fringe and feathers everywhere are just the start
“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.” Charles Dickens might have been referring to two European capitals experiencing the paradox of progress in 1859, but the pithy line could just as well be applied to the spring-summer 2026 runways. In the midst of economic uncertainty and global unrest, the fashion world found cause to celebrate and experience its own renaissance. From the catwalk to the front row, there was palpable excitement for the season ahead, buoyed by a changing of the guard. Spring 2026 marks a new beginning—how will we want to dress for its arrival?
“The atmosphere at both Milan and Paris this season was noticeably more upbeat and full of anticipation,” Brigitte Chartrand, Net-A-Porter’s chief buying and merchandising officer tells Tatler. “There was fresh energy and genuine excitement, largely driven by all of the highly anticipated designer debuts.”
In a historic high, the runways were aflush with new blood—there were 15 designer debuts, in shows from New York to Milan to Paris. While, disappointingly, only two were led by female creative directors, they were also some of the most highly anticipated. Louise Trotter, formerly at the helm of Carven, made her debut at Bottega Veneta to critical acclaim, while Rachel Scott of Diotima did not disappoint eager fans of Proenza Schouler; both showcased skilfully tailored collections that spoke to the modern woman.
See more: Year of the Horse fashion and beauty releases to look out for in 2026
Dario Vitale, former design director at Miu Miu, won Chartrand's heart with his camp, Eighties-inspired designs for Versace—no small feat considering the heavy, platformed shoes he had to fill from Donatella, the Italian house’s matriarch, who led the company for nearly three decades.
Swiss luxury house Akris leaned into the bold, playful hues of spring-summer 2026. (Photo: courtesy of Akris)
Then there was former Bottega Veneta designer Matthieu Blazy’s galactic debut for Chanel, who closed Paris Fashion Week with a bang. “He managed to strike the perfect balance between respect for the house’s storied codes and a clear, forward-looking vision,” says Simon Longland, director of buying at Harrods, of Blazy.
“It set a powerful tone for the season and signalled a very exciting new chapter for Chanel.” Following Coco Chanel’s ethos of liberating women through fashion borrowed from the boys, Blazy’s vision for 2026 included lots of cropped, boxy blazers and floral-trimmed tunics.
And then, of course, there was former Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut for Balenciaga. “It was a historic moment, watching someone known for poetic beauty reinterpret one of fashion's most provocative houses,” says Nichapat Suphap, founder of The Venture Management, who represents Thai megastars like Vachirawit “Bright” Chivaaree and Davika “Mai” Hoorne at fashion events. “The silhouettes were powerful yet vulnerable, structured yet deeply emotional. It reminded everyone that fashion can still move you.”
Looks from the Loewe spring-summer 2026 collection. (Photo: courtesy of Loewe)
These debuts drew a particularly starry crowd, which added to the heightened excitement around the spring-summer 2026 season. At Balenciaga, the Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle’s appearance was the talk of the town, while everyone from Nicole Kidman to Pedro Pascal came out in support of Chanel.
But it was the Asian stars, from Korea to China to Thailand, who stole the show. “This was truly the most global front row I’ve seen in years,” says Suphap. “Thai actress Faye [Peraya Malisorn], one of the talents from my agency, made her first appearance with Max Mara, GL [Girls’ Love] actors Lingling Kwong and Kornnaphat ‘Orm’ Sethratanapong were at Dior, and [K-pop group] Allday Project may have only debuted this summer but they were spotted at Versace, Loewe and Thom Browne. Their presence brought not only visibility but an entirely new kind of fan-driven cultural power to global fashion.”
Reflecting their buzzy Frows, the catwalks, too, were alight with optimism. After several seasons of runways being awash in greige, colour returned with a vengeance. “There was a strong resurgence of bold, primary hues, which hints that women will be dressing with a bit more playfulness and personality for next year,” said Chartrand. From Valentino to Alaïa, high-octane hues took centre stage, sometimes in a top-to-toe shade like chartreuse, as at Prada; other times woven into multicoloured racing stripes, as seen at Loewe.
In case you missed it: Schiaparelli’s first salon in Asia gets to the heart of what defines the brand today
Chartreuse on show at Prada’s spring-summer 2026 collection. (Photo: courtesy of Prada)
Vibrant colours were on display in the Loewe spring-summer 2026 collection. (Photo: courtesy of Loewe)
There was a lightness in methods of presentation too. London-based Chinese designer Susan Fang is an expert at sartorial storytelling, dreaming up elaborate sets for her fashion shows—from giant, inflatable, tie-dye balloons bouncing off a swimming pool to venues doused in bubbles. This season, she hung transparent bubble sculptures around the indoor jungle that is London’s Barbican Conservatory.
“We wanted a sci-fi comic for this season, imagining the world in 5202 communicating with 2025. The mood we wanted to capture was surreal and fantastical, mysterious yet deeply connected to nature and healing,” Fang tells Tatler. “I think people are gravitating toward clothing that has emotional resonance and makes them feel wonderful.”
While Fang experienced her fair share of struggles with tariffs and strains on the supply chain, she feels putting on a show is still an important part of her business, despite today’s uncertain retail climate. “
Shows are essential because our brand is about creating immersive, surreal worlds that inspire positivity and hope,” she says. “The show allows for physical interaction with our imaginary stories.”
Indeed, at the end of the show, a parade of frothy, “air-woven” frocks and 3D basket bags left showgoers feeling particularly ebullient. Whether or not you felt you could pull off her gauzy gowns was beside the point; you just wanted to join the party.
Fringe and feathers floated down nearly every single major catwalk, from Stella McCartney to McQueen, as if designers were trying to literally lift our spirits. “There’s a focus on decorative volume, with feathers, fringing and shaggy textures adding movement and drama, while at the same time collections were anchored by wardrobe staples such as shirts and T-shirts, cleverly juxtaposed with more opulent pieces to create a dialogue between high and low,” says Harrods’ Longland.
Indeed, a crisp shirt or T-shirt paired with a dramatic, feathered skirt is proving to be the unofficial uniform of SS26, according to Chanel and Balenciaga. Silhouettes in general hung looser—not baggy streetwear or lockdown joggers but a sense of relaxed elegance which seemed to be the reigning attitude, following the rise of barrel-legged jeans and death of high heels that dominated the last few years. Women have made clear that while they love the occasional dose of drama, they will no longer sacrifice comfort or wearability.
A look from Matthieu Blazy’s debut for Chanel . (Photo: Getty Images)
Stella McCartney leaned into the feathers trend in her spring-summer 2026 designs. (Photo: courtesy of Stella McCartney_Stella McCartney)
Speaking of what women want, fashion continued to be a lightning rod for topics around the body. The question of “What’s sexy in 2026?” came to the fore as designers put forth silhouettes that either fully obscured or fully exposed the body. Of the former, Vanessa Friedman, chief fashion critic of The New York Times, lamented “clothes that hid, confined, muzzled or even erased the women beneath”, calling out the many “cocoon” shapes that concealed any curve of a female body.
On the other end of the scale, bras and bralets were on full display at the likes of Prada and Simone Rocha, highlighting the current societal fixation on women’s breasts—all wrapped up in beautiful, couture-level craftsmanship, of course. But no matter where one stands on the spectrum, what is resoundingly clear is that women of 2026 have a wide range of choices when it comes to how much skin they want to bare—all of them sexy.
Skin is in at Simone Rocha for spring-summer 2026. (Photo: courtesy Simone Rocha)
A design from Louise Trotter’s debut collection for Bottega Veneta. (Photo: courtesy of Bottega Veneta)
“Spring-summer 2026 trends are a direct response to a world in flux-economically, emotionally and environmentally,” says Jane Collins, head of footwear and accessories at trend-forecasting company WGSN; the accessories, from jewellery to handbags, that are set to hit shelves in 2026 will be a direct reflection of the ongoing issues plaguing our planet and our search for comfort and optimism.
“Gold is increasing in value, primarily due to demand for safe-haven assets amid high global economic and geopolitical uncertainty,” adds Collins. “This has resulted in gold trending across multiple industries 88 due to its strong associations with luxury, investment value and emotional resonance.”
And if the exponential searches online for anti-theft or theft-protection devices are anything to go by, Collins predicts our collective desire for safety will shape the handbags we want to carry. “Expect to see hyper-functional hardware—sturdy zips, protective locks and difficult-to-open mechanisms; hidden compartments and hands-free designs—lanyards, straps and crossbody attachments with strength-tested, clip-on hardware,” she said.
Expect to see hyper functional hardware when it comes to handbags, as seen on this Prada piece. (Photo: courtesy of Prada)
With tariffs jacking up costs for brands and prices for consumers, there will be more factors than ever going into the decision-making process of each purchase. Sustainability and transparency promises that hold brands environmentally accountable already go without saying, but customers will be looking for “cultural and community engagement, hyper-personalisation, and experiential and emotional luxury, seeking exclusive and immersive storytelling experiences over traditional product ownership”, says Collins. In other words, when customers buy a bag, they want to feel like they’re buying into a community.
The spring 2026 runways demonstrated fashion’s resilience in the face of challenging times; creatives doubled down on their brands’ legacies to create timeless designs that women will want to live in and return to. What feels like some of the worst of times has arguably birthed some of the best fashion we've seen in years.
“Consumers are moving toward purposeful luxury: fewer things but more personal value,” says Suphap. “People now ask, ‘What does this say about me? Does it last? Does it mean something?’ I think 2026 will be about emotional investment—craftsmanship, culture and authenticity. It’s no longer about what’s loudest, but what feels true.”
NOW READ
Who wore what on the red carpet at the Grammys 2026?
Aryna Sabalenka on a winning mindset, and how fashion plays a critical role in her life