Inside Dongqu and the modern revival of Shaoxing wine

Shaoxing wine has existed for thousands of years, yet for much of its life it has been treated as something fixed: traditional, ceremonial, perhaps even nostalgic. At Dongqu, founder Chen Zhi is doing something deceptively radical, slowing down to explain what Shaoxing wine actually is, why it tastes the way it does, and why it deserves to be judged on its own terms rather than as a curiosity from the past.

“Shaoxing wine is special in three ways,” Chen says. “First, it's deeply connected to its origin. It must be made in Shaoxing with local rice, wheat, and water from Jianhu Lake.” It was also China’s first alcoholic drink to receive geographic protection, a formal recognition of something producers have long known: take it out of Shaoxing, and it becomes something else.

Water is central to that identity. Drawn from Jianhu Lake, fed by mountain springs and rich in minerals, it gives the wine its distinctive savoury depth. “People have tried making Shaoxing wine elsewhere with the same methods but different water,” Chen explains. “The result never tastes the same.” Climate plays a role, too. Cold winters clarify the water and naturally regulate fermentation, meaning each year leaves its own imprint. “Each bottle tells the story of its year.”

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Wheat is used to make the yeast starter, a key driver of fermentation and flavour in Shaoxing wine

Taihu glutinous rice, harvested in late November, provides the starch and structure essential to Shaoxing wine

That sense of time is built into Dongqu’s name. “ ‘Dong’ means winter, representing our winter brewing tradition,” Chen says. “‘Qu’ means fun or interest, from the Chinese idea that life should be enjoyable.” The philosophy is summed up in a line the team returns to often: “Winter frost and heavy snow, the exquisite taste comes from the cold.” It is not about romantic hardship, but about patience, accepting that certain flavours only arrive slowly.

Unlike most commercial producers, Dongqu bottles its wines as single vintages, never blending across years. “The core value of winter-brewed yellow wine lies in its uniqueness and authenticity,” Chen says. “Each year's harvest reflects that year's specific climate and terroir.” Where blending aims for consistency, Dongqu embraces difference. “2007's snow created elegant wine, 2009's cold made umami flavours, 2010's heat made bold wine.”

The process itself is tightly bound to the agricultural calendar. High-starch Taihu glutinous rice is harvested in late November; wheat yeast is prepared during autumn, when osmanthus blooms; brewing begins at the solar term Beginning of Winter and ends with jars sealed during the spring equinox (part of the traditional 24 solar terms, marking equal day or night length around March 20). From start to finish, there are 36 manual steps, followed by ageing in clay jars for eight to ten years.

At Dongqu, key stages of Shaoxing wine production still rely on human instinct rather than machines

One stage, however, defines the wine more than any other. “The most critical step is kaiba,” Chen says. This is when the fermenting mash is opened and stirred, guided entirely by the brewer’s judgement. “The master must monitor the vat around the clock, sensing the temperature with their hand… all based on real-time judgment of the actual conditions.” It is a skill that cannot be automated, and that worries Chen. “Machines can’t replicate a master brewer's ability to assess rice texture by touch, determine fermentation status by listening to bubble sounds, or evaluate aroma development through smell.”

To keep that knowledge alive, Dongqu deliberately stays small, selecting just 200 jars each year. It also works closely with chefs and restaurants to help drinkers understand how yellow wine fits into contemporary dining. The result has been unexpected versatility. “We tried white and red wines with braised eel, but with yellow wine was surprisingly better,” one guest told Chen. Another discovered that “Dongqu pairs wonderfully with Japanese food. Having it in omakase is fascinating.”

Dongqu founder Chen Zhi is reintroducing Shaoxing wine through single-vintage production

The savoury depth of Shaoxing wine makes it a natural match for rich, slow-cooked Chinese dishes

For Chen, reframing Shaoxing wine is not about chasing trends, but about language and context. “We use modern language: ‘single vintage’ instead of ‘old wine,’ ‘terroir’ instead of ‘traditional methods.’” The aim is simple: let people taste the differences for themselves.

“Success means handmade yellow wine remains a living choice, not a museum piece,” Chen says. In Dongqu’s case, preservation does not mean standing still. It means trusting that if the story is told clearly, and the wine is made honestly, people will finally understand why Shaoxing wine has endured for so long.

Dongqu’s brewery is located in Shaoxing, where local water, climate and grain shape the character of the wine

How to enjoy Dongqu Shaoxing wine

Serve it chilledAim for 8-10°C. This brings out the wine’s natural fruitiness and freshness without muting its complexity.

Use a wine glassA standard white-wine glass helps concentrate aromas and makes it easier to appreciate texture and balance.

Take a moment with the aromaBefore sipping, swirl gently and notice notes of rice, almond, plum or subtle florals. The amber colour comes naturally; no caramel colouring is added.

Sip slowlyLet the wine spread across your palate. Dongqu shows a balance of sweetness, acidity and umami rather than alcohol heat.

Pair it with foodDongqu works particularly well with rich dishes, seafood and Japanese cuisine, where its savoury depth and gentle sweetness come into focus.

Dongqu encourages yellow wine to be enjoyed beyond traditional settings, including modern fine dining and omakase menus

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