5 Ainu dishes to try in Hokkaido: a culinary journey into indigenous cuisine
Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, is not only famed for its dramatic landscapes and seafood but also as the ancestral home of the Ainu people. Settling in the region centuries ago, the Ainu developed a culture intimately tied to the land, rivers and forests. Their culinary traditions, distinct from mainstream Japanese cuisine, emphasise seasonal and foraged ingredients, including wild plants, game and fish. Ainu dishes offer more than flavour—they’re a lens into a sustainable, spiritual way of life and a living connection to Hokkaido’s history. For travellers seeking authenticity, here are five Ainu dishes worth sampling.
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Sito or Ainu dumplings
Sito are millet-based dumplings, traditionally made from proso or foxtail millet. The grains are soaked, pounded and boiled, resulting in a dense, sticky texture. Historically, the preparation of sito was a communal activity, often accompanied by traditional songs, reflecting its cultural significance. Once a celebratory dish, sito exemplifies the Ainu's resourcefulness in using locally sourced grains.
Ohaw or Ainu soup
Ohaw is a savoury soup that forms a cornerstone of Ainu cuisine. Unlike Japanese miso soups, Ohaw is flavoured with fish or animal bones and kelp, eschewing soy sauce. Common variations include cep ohaw or salmon, yuk ohaw or venison and kamuy ohaw or bear. Beyond sustenance, the Ainu use bear meat in Ohaw because bears were considered sacred animals, and consuming them was a way to honour their spirit while gaining vital nutrition during long winters. This dish underscores the Ainu’s reliance on natural resources and their ability to create rich flavours without conventional seasonings.
Ruibe or frozen salmon sashimi
Ruibe is a dish where salmon is frozen outdoors, then thinly sliced and served raw. In traditional Ainu practice, the salmon is caught during the autumn spawning season and laid on racks or in shallow pits outdoors, where the natural cold of Hokkaido’s winter slowly freezes the fish. This method preserves the fish without ice or refrigeration and maintains its texture and flavour. The frozen sashimi dish is typically served with soy sauce and wasabi. Ruibe reflects the Ainu’s adaptation to their environment, utilising natural freezing conditions to preserve and prepare fish.
Munini-imo or fermented potato pancake
Munini-imo or Ainu potato pancakes made from fermented potato flour (Photo: Chonx Tibajia)
Munini-imo is a pancake made from fermented potato flour. Potatoes are subjected to freeze-thaw cycles, then milled and dried, resulting in a flour that can be stored for extended periods. The flour is rehydrated and cooked into a sticky, mochi-like pancake. This preservation method highlights the Ainu’s ingenuity in ensuring food availability during harsh winters.
Rataskep or stewed wild vegetables with bear or fish oils
Rataskep, meaning “mixed food”, is a dish made by stewing wild vegetables and beans until soft, then mashing them together. It is often flavoured with bear or fish oils and a pinch of salt. Bear oil adds a rich, gamey depth and a subtle, nutty aroma that complements the earthy vegetables, enhancing the overall umami of the dish. Rataskep was made as an everyday food and for ceremonial offerings, reflecting the Ainu’s respect for the ingredients and their spiritual significance. The variety of ingredients highlights the resourcefulness and connection to Hokkaido’s natural bounty.
Exploring these Ainu dishes offers more than just a culinary experience; it provides insight into the Ainu people’s profound connection to their land and traditions. While modern interpretations of these dishes exist, tasting them in their traditional form in Hokkaido offers an authentic glimpse into a rich cultural heritage.
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