Every month, Tatler speaks to Hong Kong-based jewellers to demystify the world of jewellery. This month, we decided to bust some myths surrounding bespoke jewellery. While it may have seemed daunting in the past, designing a one-of-a-kind piece that reflects your personal style and story is now an exciting opportunity.
Niyati Kapadia, founder of a boutique jewellery brand Niya K, is here to shed light on the process of creating bespoke jewellery and address some common misconceptions.
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Niya K bespoke tennis bracelets (Photo: courtesy of Niya K)
Niya K white diamond rings (Photo: courtesy of Niya K)
Is my dream jewellery possible with my budget?Yes, there is a lot of versatility in design and that is the beauty of working with a bespoke jeweller like us. We can also use a range of different materials and qualities in the jewellery universe:natural versus lab-grown diamonds, 18-karat gold versus 9-karat gold and precious versus semi-precious gems.
Can I use any stone?We offer a wide range of gemstones to work with and we advise what looks good [on the customer] and is practical for the design. Also choosing the right quality that suits the customer’s preference is very important.
If one is not sure what they want the end product to look like, can you help?With my background in fashion and art, this is where we can make a difference in designing a unique piece. It’s an interactive process, working together with [the customer’s] ideas and the large variety of pieces that we have designed, we can help guide them to make sure they get a piece they truly love. We start with initial sketches, do CAD [computer] drawings and only then go ahead to manufacture the piece.
How does one explain or describe the jewellery piece that they want designed?It’s great to start with a few inspirational photos of pieces that catch your eye, maybe through Pinterest, Instagram or something you saw online. That way we can get an understanding of what you have in mind. It’s [also] great to have a budget in mind. We can also give you a range [of options] based on your initial ideas and budget. Once we have that, then we can draw up designs and send through quotes.
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Bespoke jewellery by Niya K (Photo: courtesy of Niya K)
How is the price of bespoke jewellery pieces determined?The cost of the gold, gemstones and other materials is the main factor followed by labour and design fees. We initially base the price on estimates and are transparent about what we factor in. A bespoke piece starts at HK$5,000 and we do not charge for consultations and quotations.
Can I make sure that I like the design before it’s produced?Yes, we make sure to work with you through drawings and CADs, the computer drawings are very detailed and show you all angles of the design. We also have a range of ready-to-wear products that we use as a reference point to show you diamond sizes, the finishing of a product, etc. We have very rarely gone wrong with the result.
What metals and gemstones do you work with in making bespoke jewellery?We work with natural and lab-made diamonds, semi-precious and precious gemstones, as well as gold and platinum to create a bespoke jewel.
How long does it take to make a bespoke jewellery piece?Our process usually takes three to four weeks from start to finish.
Will my engagement ring need cleaning and maintenance?We usually recommend having the ring professionally checked and polished every 12-18 months depending on how you wear it. We provide one free polishing with all our pieces.
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The jewellery designer can work within the customer’s budget to create bespoke jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Niya K)
Does your bespoke jewellery come with appraisals and certificates?All our pieces come with an invoice which has all the details of the piece, from the [stone’s] carat weight and gold weight. We provide a GIA certificate for all natural diamonds [that are] 0.50 carat or more, and a GIA or IGI certificate for lab-grown diamonds which are more than one carat. We can also provide certificates for other gemstones at the customer’s request.
Is bespoke jewellery more expensive?This is a common myth. On the contrary, we think it [the price] is more reasonable than buying readymade jewellery. We have excellent sourcing abilities, which means we can get you what you want at a price within your budget. As we do not hold a large inventory, we save tremendous costs and pass that on to our bespoke customers. We also save cost on rent and marketing which means we can afford to work on lower margins.
How do jewellers make bespoke jewellery?It requires a good partnership between the design, sourcing and manufacturing sides of the business. The design team and consultants work with the customers to understand their needs, relaying this information to sourcing and manufacturing teams who let us know what’s possible so that we can give concrete options to the customer. All these interactions happen at the same time and we are lucky to have a great team in place with excellent communication.
What are the benefits of custom-made jewellery?Jewellery is a meaningful purchase. Getting a custom-made piece means you are involved and can choose to get it done how you want, suit it to your budget and get it cheaper than a similar piece in store.
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