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By the Glass: Ensue’s head sommelier, Della Tang, on the wine that was a revelation

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 2023年06月01日10:14 • 發布於 2023年05月30日06:30 • Fontaine Cheng

Our By The Glass series invites sommeliers and experts in the world of wine to share some inspiration for your next pour

One of China’s most highly regarded young wine experts, Della Tang made history as the first hospitality professional to receive Beronia Asia’s Best Sommelier Award at Asia's 50 Best Restaurants ceremony this year in which Ensue, the innovative restaurant by renowned chef Christopher Kostow that Tang works at in Shenzhen, ranked No.31 on the list.

Shenzhen-born Tang studied at Le Cordon Bleu Paris and worked in established restaurants Yam’Tcha and Le Taillevent in France before moving back to China to pursue her passion for wine. Now the head sommelier spearheading Ensure's wine list and service, Tang also manages the wine business and portfolios for the other four restaurants under the Savor group in Shenzhen. The wine at Ensue offers a wide variety, ranging from more established estates to grower Champagnes and Tang has also helped design pairings that complement the cuisine.

Ahead, Tang shares some of her favourite bottles and go-to wines as well as what takes up the most room in her cellar.

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An early (in your career) wine that made you say ‘Wow! (I want to be a sommelier)’I began my wine studies at Le Cordon Bleu with Mr Franck Ramage. One of the highlights of our program was assisting with the service of Ficofi's Le Palais des Grands Crus tasting, where I had the opportunity to try Egon Muller TBA 2011. This wine was a revelation—with every sip, I experienced a dazzling firework of flavours and aromas.

Most memorable pourRayas 1994. 1994 is my birth year and it is also a less desired vintage—some would say a bad vintage—in most of the wine regions. On my first pour of this 1994 Rayas vintage, the wine was bursting with youthful energy, complexity, and balance. Truly remarkable. Chapeau.

Tipple for a TuesdayVinas Mora Kaamen II, made from old-vine Babic grapes in Primosten Hill, Southern Croatia. It’s a well-made natural wine, clean and consistent. Quite juicy and elegant. I like to share this bottle with a group of friends.

Sun, sea and …A bottle of Blanc de Blancs Champagne.

Wine of the momentWasenhaus Spatburgunder. Quite a nice discovery on German Pinot.

What you wish a customer would order (so you can taste it—for taint, of course)Salon 2008. Salon of this grand vintage was only released in magnum format, and it’s only sold as in an assortment case.

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What you love to recommend to guestsOur wine pairing. Sometimes, we would throw some other beverages such as beer, sake, or cocktail in the wine pairing to make it fun. Of course, we would communicate with our guests first if they would like to be a little bit adventurous with the pairing.

Best from your by-the-glass listSebastien Riffault Sancerre Skeveldra 2019. This sauvignon blanc is rather unique: 50% of the grapes are affected by botrytis. We have this paired with our spring shoots dish.

Bottle to bring to a dinner partyIt really depends on the crowd, food or theme of the party. If it’s a sommelier gathering, I’ll try to bring something interesting and niche. And if it’s for a wine lover dinner, Champagne and Burgundy are usually my go-to.

What’s in your cellar?I do try to collect some wines. Champagne and Burgundy take up most of the space in my cellar.

Last glass I was asked this question by someone else before. I used to answer some ultra-rare and fine wines that I haven’t got a chance to try. But now, I change my answer to: I would revisit the most meaningful and memorable bottle that I have had over my lifetime.

If not wine, then what? Tea. As someone from a Chaoshan family, I grew up drinking tea. The tea ceremony is a calming ritual that helps me unwind and relax. My current favourites include Wuyi rock tea, old white peony, and back-vintage unfermented Pu'er. Like wine, the more you learn, the more you realise how much there is to discover.

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Ensue, 40/F, Futian Shangri-La Hotel, 4088 Yitian Road, Futian District, Shenzhen, China; ensue-sz.com

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