When it comes to innovation in the fashion industry, the first things to come to mind tend to be 3D printing technology or how clothing can be digitised. But innovation isn’t synonymous with technology: Korean menswear designer Jiyong Kim is blazing a trail with his hand-crafted garments and novel techniques.
Kim was named one of the 20 semi-finalists for the 2024LVMH Prize, one of five Asian designers nominated; a total of 2,500 emerging designers were entered this year. Having worked at Lemaire and Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton, the Bunka Fashion College and Central Saint Martins (CSM) graduate’s designs go beyond what meets the eye. His menswear is characterised by essential wardrobe staples based on experimental pattern-making, streetwear sensibility and functionality, and are instantly recognisable by the distinctive colours achieved through his sun-bleaching technique.
When he took part in Fashion Asia’s 10 Asian Designers to Watch exhibition in Hong Kong last year, I got to see the results of his method in person. It harnesses the power of the sun, wind and rain to achieve the desired shades in fabrics, without the use of large amounts of water and chemical dyes.
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Since launching his upcycled graduation collection Daylight Matters in 2021, Jiyong Kim has been stocked at international retailers including Ssense, Mr Porter, Selfridges and Dover Street Market, proving that his innovative approach to sustainability can be commercially viable.
Tell us more about the sun-bleaching technique.The sun-bleaching process came about from re-examining what can be considered valuable. Garments are tied up to outdoor fixtures and left to weather the elements for an extended period of time. As a result, the sun, rain, wind and other natural elements all play a part to affect the final outcome of the garment.
Sun-bleaching process (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Sun-bleaching process (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Sun-bleaching process (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Sun-bleaching process (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
How are your designs influenced by your Korean upbringing? Growing up in a conservative Asian society, systematic uniformity has been an unavoidable part of my experience. Having to wear uniforms throughout my school years placed restrictions on expression of individuality, which in turn fostered a desire to rebel and distinguish myself from others through modifications made to my uniform.
What has been your most memorable creation so far?A velvet jacket from my CSM graduate collection made entirely from deadstock materials. I sourced a vintage French cotton velvet curtain for the body, and used the curtain’s original back-facing layer for the lining. It was also finished with vintage buttons for a one-of-a- kind look that was created entirely from reused materials.
Jiyong Kim spring-summer 2024 collection (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Jiyong Kim spring-summer 2024 collection (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Jiyong Kim spring-summer 2024 collection (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Jiyong Kim spring-summer 2024 collection (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Can you tell us about your clientele and some of the opportunities and roadblocks to your business?Our clientele covers a wide variety of customers across key markets worldwide. The sun-bleaching process places inherent restrictions on the pace and scale at which we must proceed, as it cannot be expedited and is dependent upon weather conditions. This works well for us, as we prefer to proceed at a slow and steady pace to build a strong foundation for our business.
Our customers also appreciate the exclusivity of our items, as they are exclusive by necessity and not by artificial means. Quite a large part of our collection is also made up of non-sun-bleached items, with the same emphasis on experimental patternmaking and hand-draping. These items highlight our distinctive silhouettes and pair very well with other sun-bleached items.
Would you consider your design a form of innovation?Our process is rooted in curiosity, which is what we consider true innovation and sustainability. It pushed us to challenge existing standards of craftsmanship and explore new possibilities.
Jiyong Kim autumn-winter 2024 collection (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Jiyong Kim autumn-winter 2024 collection (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Jiyong Kim autumn-winter 2024 collection (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Jiyong Kim autumn-winter 2024 collection (Photo courtesy of Jiyong Kim)
Do you feel optimistic about the sustainable efforts that brands and designers are making in fashion today? Sustainability for us is about sparking curiosity in people’s minds to question what can be considered valuable. If more people can examine their own relationship with beauty and consumption, we can head towards a more sustainable culture.
What are you currently working on?We are working on various collaborations and have just released a new set of Electric Motorbikes we designed in partnership with California- based [lifestyle brand] Super 73.
What’s next for Jiyong Kim?In the future, we want to continue showcasing our potential for interdisciplinary output, working with many different mediums throughout different industries.
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