鑽石是自然存在的最硬物質，是永恆不變的代表，因而有不少女生都想在人生大事中，如結婚，收到一隻鑽戒。然而，對一般人來說，買鑽石並不是日常事，那如何才能挑選到一隻性價比高的鑽戒呢？以下便有多項鑽石鑒定師為大家講解如何選購一隻好鑽戒。
撰文：Kathy｜圖片來源：Sing Ho、Instagram｜資料來源：英皇珠寶
鑽石鑒定師分享鑽石知識一二事
1. 鑽石的重量，尺寸和價值之間的關係
鑽石是以「卡拉」（Carat）作為重量單位，並以其去計算售價。不要以為鑽石的尺寸愈大便代表愈貴，皆因鑽石是以卡拉重量去計算鑽石的總價值，而不是尺寸。
Diamond is the birthstone of April. A gemstone of purity and flawlessness, the diamond shines with a boundless radiance that is simply irresistible. The delicate and elegant diamond symbolizes ever-lasting love, and it makes the perfect gift for one’s beloved. #英皇珠寶 #EmperorJewellery #EmperorEverydayLuxury#HeartbeatJourney #EmperorSunray #CrowndeEmperor
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Apr 3, 2018 at 3:17am PDT
當鑽石卡拉愈大，其價值都會隨之遞增，因為在100萬顆鑽石的石胚中，只能找到少於1顆是1卡拉的鑽石，所以愈大顆的鑽石代表它的稀缺性愈高，價格也愈高。
而卡拉重量（Carat Weight）與尺寸（Size）之間並不是線性的關係。 即使鑽石的重量增長了3倍（如由1卡拉至3卡拉），但其尺寸並不是大了3倍（直徑由6.50至9.40毫米），直徑只大了45%而已。
A diamond ring and the promise of love make for the dream marriage proposal. Light up the moment with the sparkle of your love while she speaks the words: “I do!” #英皇珠寶 #EmperorJewellery #EmperorEverydayLuxury #WillYouMarryMe
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Jun 28, 2018 at 4:39am PDT
The cushion cut diamond (also known as the “pillow cut diamond”) is one of the oldest diamond shapes. The diamond is shaped as a soft square or rectangle with curved angles, while the larger facets accentuate the clarity and brilliance of the diamond. In selecting a square cushion cut diamond, look for a width to length ratio of 1-1.05. For a more rectangle shape, opt for a ratio larger than 1.15. #EmperorMasterClassMonday #EmperorJewellery #英皇珠寶 #EmperorEverydayLuxury
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Jun 25, 2018 at 3:49am PDT
另外，鑽石的切割比例（Proportion）也會導致兩顆相同卡拉重量的鑽石的尺寸有所不同。一般，鑽石的外表正常，但重量偏重的原因，是因為它們的重量被收藏了在其腰（Girdle）間內。
Diamond can divide light into a spectrum of colors, and reflect red, green and blue sparkles called “Fire”. A diamond’s cut is the key to bringing out its fire, and the Brilliant Cut is the most popularly used cut. When one moves a diamond gently under natural light, it exhibits vibrant, intersecting sparkles and fire that catch the eye even from afar. #EmperorMasterClassMonday #EmperorJewellery #EmperorEverydayLuxury #HeartbeatJourney #英皇珠寶
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Apr 30, 2018 at 4:18am PDT
Fluorescence refers to the colored glow a diamond emits when subjected to ultraviolet light (UV). It maybe blue, yellow or green in color, with blue being the most common. Fluorescence is identified by four grades: Strong, Medium, Faint and None. Roughly 30% of natural diamonds fluoresce. #EmperorMasterClassMonday #英皇珠寶 #EmperorJewellery #EmperorEverydayLuxury #CrowndeEmperor #EmperorBridal
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Apr 16, 2018 at 3:44am PDT
所以要有良好切割比例的鑽石，是要做到其重量和外表也是呈合理或最理想的比例（Ideal Proportion）。
#Repost @tracytschu ・・・ Reaction when you find out the jewelry you are wearing is worth more than your house, car, school tuition fees and income combined. 💍 #EmperorJewellery #英皇珠寶 @EmperorWatchandJewellery 👗 @morenobridal #EmperorJewelleryToTheStars
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Jan 21, 2018 at 4:57pm PST
When its centre diamond is framed by little diamonds, a diamond rings is visually accentuated both in size and brilliance, while the center diamond also appears larger than its actual size. The setting enhances the reflection of light between the diamonds, revealing their perfect radiance. #EmperorMasterClassMonday #EmperorJewellery #英皇珠寶 #EmperorEverydayLuxury #CrowndeEmperor
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on May 28, 2018 at 3:10am PDT
兩顆重量一致的鑽石，因為外形或形狀不同，它們的尺寸和外觀也可以很不一樣。例如一卡拉欖尖形鑽石的尺寸較同重量的圓形鑽石為大。
以下圖表說明：
以一卡拉作標準，每種形狀鑽石的最典型的尺寸。在視覺上，長形狀鑽石（如橢圓形、欖尖形、梨形和祖母綠形）的外形都是比圓形或正方形鑽石的外形為大，所以想「欺騙視覺效果」可選購長形狀鑽。
0.9CT（HK$78,200）1.07CT（HK$105,000）如果讀者想購入性價比高的鑽戒，可以選擇90份的鑽石，其售價會比1卡拉的鑽石低，但外觀上又很難把它們分辨出來的
2.鑽石淨度、成色
The most commonly used diamond color grading scales are the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and CIBJO (World Jewellery Confederation) scales, with the GIA’s 4Cs standard being the most widely used among gemstone certification institutes. The color grading scale starts with D, which represents the highest grade colorless diamonds. As the letter D is the first letter of the word Diamond, it makes a fitting description of premium quality diamonds. #EmperorMasterClassMonday #EmperorJewellery #EmperorEverydayLuxury#LAtelierCindyYeung #highjewelry #hautejoaillerie #英皇珠寶
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Apr 9, 2018 at 3:31am PDT
Diamond is the birthstone of April. A gemstone of purity and flawlessness, the diamond shines with a boundless radiance that is simply irresistible. The delicate and elegant diamond symbolizes ever-lasting love, and it makes the perfect gift for one’s beloved. #英皇珠寶 #EmperorJewellery #EmperorEverydayLuxury#HeartbeatJourney #EmperorSunray #CrowndeEmperor
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Apr 3, 2018 at 3:17am PDT
除了卡拉重量影響著鑽石的價格，它的質量（如顏色、淨度和切割）也會令相同重量的鑽石價格有所差別。
鑽石的成色
市場上有應用的鑽石顏色評級，是由美國寶石學院（GIA）和國際珠寶聯合會（CIBJO）為標準。在顏色（Colour）的評級上，D – Z，D代表鑽石最為無色（Colourless）的最高級別。
鑽石的淨度
The best thing is listening to someone’s heartbeat; and knowing that it’s beating like that BECAUSE OF YOU. @choisaaaa #EmperorJewellery #HeartbeatJourney #英皇珠寶 #心動系列
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Aug 25, 2017 at 6:42am PDT
Light up the New Year’s Eve with an unforgettable surprise for your beloved. 💍The Crown de Emperor engagement ring features the crown-shaped setting and the brilliant diamond which is a symbol of eternity, illuminating the wearer’s beauty and lasting memories. Rejoice in love and unveil a sparkling new year with her, with the ring of happiness.💕 #EmperorJewellery #英皇珠寶 #CrowndeEmperor
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Dec 27, 2017 at 2:08am PST
由於鑽石是在地球深處高溫高壓的環境所形成，所以一定存有一些可看見的不完美瑕疵，行家會稱它為表面瑕疵（Blemishes），又稱鑽石的「胎記」，內部的瑕疵側為「內含物」（Inclusions）。
#Repost @roxannetong ・・・ Congratz to all award winners❤️ #萬千星輝頒獎典禮2017 💎💍 #EmperorJewellery #英皇珠寶 @EmperorWatchandJewellery 💃#cindyalan @ca_cindyalan . . . #EmperorJewelleryToTheStars
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Jan 22, 2018 at 1:20am PST
瑕疵存在的位置愈明顯和當眼，鑽石的價值愈受影響。鑽石切磨技師運用技術和經驗去設計切割方案，盡量避免瑕疵在桌面或其他當眼處被看出。一般而言，瑕疵在風箏刻面（bezel facet）或接近腰部的刻面是較難被觀察出來的。
在淨度分布圖中，綠色的標示代表表面瑕疵，而紅色則代表內含物。有些瑕疵如表面晶面是以綠和紅色一起表示。黑色標示代表額外刻面。
淨度分布圖只在GIA的鑽石（1卡拉以上重量）的大證書中出現。而1卡拉以下重量的鑽石的小證書中，只以文字列出瑕疵的種類，並沒有淨度分布圖的。
圖片來源：ogisystems.com圖片來源：ogisystems.com在常規的鑽石買賣中，只有10%的交易是選擇這些VVS或以上的級別。而最受歡迎的淨度級別則是VS1-VS2的鑽石，它們看上去已經接近乾淨的，而它們的價格較完美的鑽石還更優惠。
#EmperorMasterClassMonday : The GIA clarity plotting diagram is used to map a diamond’s clarity characteristics. In the diagram, green markings indicate blemishes; red markings indicate inclusions; green and red markings are used together to indicate characteristics like indented naturals; and black markings indicate extra facets. The clarity plotting diagram is only included in the GIA Diamond Grading Report for diamonds weighing more than 1 carat. For diamonds weighing less than 1 carat, the characteristics are listed in the dossier. #EmperorJewellery #英皇珠寶 #EmperorEverydayLuxury #EmperorChristmasGiftIdea
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Dec 18, 2017 at 2:44am PST
What a romantic way to say I love you. #emperorwatchandjewellery
A post shared by Emperor Watch&Jewellery 英皇鐘錶珠寶 (@emperorwatchandjewellery) on Jul 26, 2017 at 2:20am PDT
另一個受歡迎的級別是SI1了，對於日常佩戴鑽石的用家來說，這些鑽石的性價比很強，而且內含物並不明顯地影響鑽石的外觀。
鑽石鑽石除此之外，相比尺寸較小的鑽石，大尺寸的鑽石瑕疵是較容易被察覺得到。因此，淨度對於大顆的鑽石是較重要的考慮因素。 對於超過2卡拉的鑽石來說，VS2或以上的淨度級別是一個較安全的選擇去避免那些可見的瑕疵。
