Introducing Tatler GMT Collective: a watch community of trailblazers in Asia

Asia’s watch scene is rewriting the rules—not just as a market but as a creative powerhouse of innovation, skill, and style. With a buzzing community of creators, collectors, and visionaries, the region is putting its own spin on horology, giving both Swiss and homegrown timepieces a fresh edge. From Singapore to Seoul, pioneers like Ming Thein and Hajime Asaoka are breaking stereotypes and showing the world that haute horlogerie thrives here. Meet 50 of Asia’s coolest trailblazers shaping the future of watchmaking.

The following is a condensed version of the article. To read the entire article, pick up a copy of Tatler GMT December 2024 issue at your favourite newsstand.

Read more: GPHG 2024: The list of winners

MALAYSIA

Ming Thein, co-founder and creative director, Horologer Ming

Oxford-trained physicist and photographer Ming Thein founded his eponymous watch brand in 2017, aiming to redefine independent watchmaking with a philosophy of minimalist elegance and complex visual depth. “For me, what was lacking was something that was simple and original but with hidden complexities,” he says. Conceptualised in Malaysia with support from esteemed Swiss partners like movement specialist Agenhor and watchmaker Manufacture Schwarz-Etienne, Ming has quickly become one of the world’s most acclaimed micro watch brands. It consistently earns rave reviews for its releases and even won GPHG prizes in 2019 and 2024. As creative director, Thein leads the brand with a clear vision, focused on crafting watches with enduring appeal and subtle, layered details that reward close inspection. Ming’s latest release, the 37.02 Minimalist, embodies this approach. It debuts the Ming Polar White lume, a unique material that glows white, representing the brand’s ideal of an essential, reductivist wristwatch. The 37.02 is also the first model to be designed and engineered entirely at the brand’s new facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

Ming Thein

Also featured:

Sharan, Mukesh, and Ashvin Valiram, co-founders, Swiss Watch

The Valiram brothers aren’t merely selling watches; they’re fostering a deeper appreciation for horology through carefully curated events and exhibition, including the annual Art of Time,

Sharan, Mukesh, and Ashvin Valiram

SINGAPORE

Michael Tay, group managing director, The Hour Glass

Michael Tay has been at the helm of The Hour Glass as group managing director since April 2015, bringing over two decades of experience in the watch industry. He initially joined the company in 1999 as its business re-engineering manager and has since developed extensive expertise across various facets of the business, from specialty watch manufacturing to retail development. Tay is a prominent figure in horology, serving as president of the jury for the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize and as a member of the juries for both the FP Journe Young Talent Competition and the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. He also contributes to the cultural committee of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. This year, Tay launched IAMWATCH in Singapore to cater to the Pan-Asian watch-collecting community by fostering direct interactions among enthusiasts, collectors, watchmakers, and industry leaders. The initiative aims to facilitate the exchange of passion, knowledge, and stories surrounding horology. The inaugural event showcased 45 independent watchmakers and sought to deepen consumer engagement with fine timepieces. Through IAMWATCH, Tay enhances The Hour Glass’ standing as a leader in luxury watch retail while nurturing a greater appreciation for the art of watchmaking within the community.

Michael Tay

Also featured:

Raymond Lim, CEO, Cortina Holdings
Sugiharto Kusumadi, founder, Red Army Watches and Horizon
Tom Chng, founder, Singapore Watch Club
Christopher Long, founder, Azimuth
Kenneth Kuan and Chia Pei Qi, co-founders, Delugs

Raymond Lim

Sugiharto Kusumadi

Tom Chng

Christopher Long

Kenneth Kuan and Chia Pei Qi

HONG KONG

Carson Chan, founder, WatchProfessor Academy

Carson Chan, widely known as the Watch Professor, has made significant contributions to horology through pivotal roles at auction houses and luxury watch brands, including a stint as the managing director and head of the Watch Department at Bonhams Asia. Through the WatchProfessor Academy, Chan shares his extensive knowledge and enthusiasm for watchmaking, enriching the appreciation of horology. As a master trainer, he also provides training to industry professionals across numerous leading brands. He served as a jury member of Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2018 and 2019, and became an academy member in 2020, further solidifying his reputation as an influential figure in the international watch community. Chan shares his horological insights with over 55,000 followers on Instagram, cultivating a deeper appreciation and understanding of watches. His expertise is highly sought after by leading watch and lifestyle publications, and he has been featured in major media outlets such as The New York Times and Financial Times.

Carson Chan

Also featured:

Austen Chu, co-founder and CEO, Wristcheck
Jonathan Chan, co-founder, The Horology Club
Tay Liam Wee, co-founder, The 1916 Company
John Ng, founder, Montres SA
Lung Lung Thun, co-founder, The Waiting List podcast
Michael Young, founder, Classic Watch Repair
Mark Cho, co-founder, The Armoury
Jackie Ho, co-founder, Watch Ho & Co
Gabriel Lau, artist

Austen Chu

Jonathan Chan

Tay Liam Wee

John Ng

Lung Lung Thun

Michael Young

Mark Cho

Jackie Ho

Gabriel Lau

THAILAND

Phumiphan Bunjapamai, chairman, TKI Group

As chairman of TKI Group, Phumiphan Bunjapamai was instrumental in opening Thailand’s first Patek Philippe boutique at Siam Paragon in Bangkok in 2006, expanding the brand’s presence through carefully planned events and partnerships. Beyond business, Bunjapamai’s devotion to watches is personal; his collection of haute horlogerie pieces reflects his passion for meticulous care and craftsmanship. He is also committed to fostering a community of watch enthusiasts across Thailand.

Phumiphan Bunjapamai

Also featured:

Prasart Vidhayapat, watch collector
Korsak Chairasmisak, co-founder, Thai Watch Lover’s Club
Chiranuj Bhirombhakdi, Patek Philippe enthusiast
Apichai Chinsettawong, founder, Omega Passion Museum

Prasart Vidhayapat

Korsak Chairasmisak

Chiranuj Bhirombhakdi

Apichai Chinsettawong

PHILIPPINES

Dr Hayden Kho, Jr, investor, Vanguart

Renowned aesthetic doctor, entrepreneur, and social media personality Dr Hayden Kho Jr is an avid watch collector and a prominent figure in the Philippine watch community. Actively participating in local events and online forums, he inspires others to explore the intricate world of horology. Driven by a desire to make a lasting impact through his ventures—Belo Medical Group, Venn Intelligent Aesthetics and Right Start Foundation—Kho found a natural alignment with Swiss independent watchmaker Vanguart. After a chance encounter with one of the brand’s co-founders at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, Kho became an early investor. His role has since expanded to that of vocal advocate and consultant for the Asian watch market. As Mehmet Koruturk, co-founder of Vanguart, previously noted: “Whether on the creative or business side, [Kho’s] input is crucial for us, not only for his watch knowledge but also for his status and network in the region.”

Dr Hayden Kho, Jr

Also featured:

Emerson and Ivan Yao, managing directors, Lucerne Group
Kim Atienza, Rolex enthusiast
Alice Aeduardo, Richard Mille enthusiast
Chris Lichauco, watch collector

Emerson Yao

Kim Atienza

Alice Eduardo

Chris Lichauco

TAIWAN

Robert Tseng. watch collector

Robert Tseng is more than a watch collector—he is a key figure in promoting a vibrant watch culture in Taiwan. His deep knowledge of heritage and craftsmanship is frequently sought by brands, collectors, and industry professionals for valuable insights. Tseng’s fascination with horology began as a child when his father gifted him his first Seiko watch. Captivated, he immersed himself in books and specialist magazines, eager to learn all he could. Later, as a photographer, Tseng’s focus shifted to capturing the intricate details of timepieces, photographing both their exteriors and movements by carefully opening casebacks. His unique images have since been compiled and earned him contributions to prominent watch magazines. Today, his collection boasts over 200 pieces, and his photography continues to make an impact in the horological world.

Robert Tseng

Also featured:

Kevin Lu, watch collector
Lori Shen, founder, Swiss Prestige
Rui-Chi Liu, chairman, Accord Enterprise
Eric Chen, co-owner, King’s Sign Watch
Zach Lu, watch collector
YY Chien, master engraver
Henry Chen, watch educator
Kelly Chiu, general manager, SwissPrimeBrands

Kevin Lu

Lori Shen

Eric Chen

Zach Lu (Photo: Getty Images)

YY Chien

Henry Chen

Kelly Chiu

JAPAN

Shinji Hattori, chairman and group CEO, Seiko Group Corporation

As the great-grandson of Seiko’s founder, Shinji Hattori has upheld Seiko Group Corporation’s legacy in a respectful yet forward-thinking way. Hattori has led the brand through pivotal innovations, including the global expansion of Grand Seiko and advancements in Seiko’s proprietary Spring Drive technology. Under his leadership, Grand Seiko has become one of the world’s most respected luxury watch brands, deeply rooted in the traditional craftsmanship that defines Japanese watchmaking. Hattori’s commitment to both innovation and heritage has nurtured a thriving community of Seiko collectors and enthusiasts. His leadership has reinforced Seiko’s position as a global horological powerhouse, inspiring a new generation of watch lovers with a blend of cutting-edge technology and timeless design. Thanks to Hattori’s stewardship, Seiko continues to embody innovation and tradition, standing as a symbol of both within the watch industry.

Read more: A guide to Japan for watch enthusiasts

Shinji Hattori (Photo: Getty Images)

Also featured:

Naoya Hida, watchmaker and founder, Naoya Hida & Co
Hajime Asaoka, watchmaker and founder, Precision Watch Tokyo
Minori Koizumi, master artist

Naoya Hida

Hajime Asaoka

CHINA

Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, founders, Atelier Wen

Launched in 2018, Atelier Wen set out with an audacious goal: to create a world-class watch brand that’s made in China. Defying initial scepticism, it has since built a cult following and is celebrated for blending Chinese artistry with modern watchmaking, despite its founders’ French roots. University mates Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron bonded over a shared love for Chinese culture, inspiring the creation of Atelier Wen. Tallendier, once an “executive expert” with the China Horologe Association, and Hong Kong-born Buiron envisioned a brand showcasing Chinese artistry in global watchmaking. Atelier Wen’s first model, Porcelain Odyssey, raised US$100,000 on Kickstarter and introduced collectors to dials of fine Chinese porcelain and powered by a Dandong Peacock movement. The Perception series followed, spotlighting Cheng Yucai, China’s sole guilloché master and earning a GPHG nomination for the Perception Piao in 2022. Atelier Wen marked a new milestone in 2024, debuting a captivating purple Perception in tantalum at Watches and Wonders Geneva—an impressive move, given the rarity and complexity of this metal in watchmaking.

Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron

Also featured:

Cheng Yucai, guilloché artisan
Zhang Jianming, founder and chief designer, Ciga Design
Benjamin Chee, founder, Celadon Haute Horlogerie

Cheng Yucai

Zhang Jianming

Benjamin Chee

INDIA

Yashovardhan Saboo, chairman, Ethos Watch Boutiques

Yashovardhan Saboo has been a transformative figure in India’s luxury timepiece industry, reshaping the horological landscape as the driving force behind Ethos Watches. Recognising a gap in the Indian market for high-end options in the 1980s, Saboo gradually built Ethos into the nation’s largest fine watch retailer. His vision extended beyond simply bringing global brands to Indian collectors; he aimed to cultivate a deeper appreciation for horology. Through initiatives such as introducing certified pre-owned luxury watches and expanding access to independent brands, Saboo—a passionate collector himself—has inspired a new generation of enthusiasts. His efforts have established Ethos as a trusted gateway for collectors seeking exclusive timepieces, while also helping to demystify luxury for first-time buyers. Beyond his retail success, Saboo is a staunch advocate for independent watchmakers, championing lesser-known artisans and introducing them to a broader audience. His influence has been instrumental in building a robust ecosystem for timepieces in India, where homegrown brands also find space to flourish.

Yashovardhan Saboo

SOUTH KOREA

Minhoon Yoo, watchmaker and founder, Studio Minhoon Yoo

Seamlessly blending traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation, Minhoon Yoo is a trailblazer in South Korea’s emerging independent watchmaking scene. Inspired by a documentary on master watchmaker Philippe Dufour, Yoo pursued horology in Switzerland before returning to Seoul to establish his atelier. His timepieces, including the Carved Piece and the Moonlight Tourbillon, are celebrated for their intricate hand-finishing and in-house movements. Produced in limited quantities, these watches have earned acclaim for both their technical brilliance and personal storytelling. Yoo’s work weaves Korean cultural elements into contemporary horology, creating pieces that resonate deeply with collectors around the world. His presence at international watch fairs has raised the profile of South Korean watchmaking, while his dedication to craftsmanship and innovation continues to inspire a new generation of collectors and enthusiasts.