Wat Rai Khing: A pillar of devotion rocked by scandal

Wat Rai Khing, a famous temple in Nakhon Pathom that has drawn Buddhist pilgrims for the past two centuries, now finds itself at the centre of a national controversy.

Yet, despite the embezzlement scandal that has dislodged its abbot, worshippers continue to flock in large numbers to this riverside temple west of Bangkok.

Its once-revered 70-year-old abbot, Phra Dharma Wachiranuwat, was defrocked in mid-May after being accused of siphoning over 300 million baht from temple accounts. Most of the transfers were linked to a 28-year-old woman, who investigators described as a key accomplice.

Latest investigation reports suggest he may have embezzled more than 800 million baht.

“I respect the Buddha image in the temple hall and Lord Buddha’s teachings – not the abbot,” declared a female worshipper on entering the temple recently.

She had driven 32 kilometres from Bangkok to visit the temple, while another devotee who arrived at the same time had travelled around 400km from Phitsanulok.

Long history

Wat Rai Khing is believed to have been built in 1851 during the reign of King Rama IV (1851-1868). It takes its name – which translates as ginger plantation – from the surrounding fields of ginger planted by Chinese settlers.

The temple is said to have been initiated by Somdet Phra Buddhacharya (Luangphor Puk), one of Thailand’s most revered Buddhist monks, as a place of worship in his hometown.

When To Brahmaramsi died in 1884, with the temple still under construction, his nephew – also a senior monk – took over the project.

In 1903, the 10th Supreme Patriarch, Vajirañāṇavarorasa, renamed the temple Wat Mongkhon Chindaram. However, the original name stuck and is still being used to this day. The temple was also granted royal patronage.

Sacred image

The temple’s main image, a 240-centimetre-tall statue of Buddha in the “subduing Mara” pose, sits atop a five-layered pedestal. It was sent down the river by Somdet Phra Buddhacharya ( Luangphor Puk), who was then abbot of Wat Salapoon in Ayutthaya.

The bamboo raft carrying the image arrived on Songkran day – the first full moon day of the fifth month based on the Thai calendar – though Thai historical records don’t mention the year.

According to legend, the stifling heat suddenly gave way to refreshing rain as the statue arrived – an event hailed as a miracle by the crowd of Songkran revellers at the temple.

Since then, the image, named Luangphor Wat Rai Khing, has been revered for bestowing happiness and dispelling worshippers’ worries.

This sacred statue is also believed to contain the spirit of one of five enlightened monks from the North, revered for their vow to redeem every creature on Earth.

After the monks died, their souls entered the Buddha images, which were then floated down the river. The images were enshrined at Wat Sothonwararam in Chachoengsao, Wat Bang Phli in Samut Prakan, Wat Ban Laem in Samut Songkhram, Wat Khao Takrao in Phetchaburi, and Wat Rai King.

Hugely popular and wealthy

The temple grew so popular that it had to expand parking for hundreds of cars and remain open 24 hours to accommodate the thousands of devotees who visit daily to pay their respects.

More than 100 donation boxes are dotted around the temple, taking payments by cash and QR code.

The temple also collects rent from vendors that run stalls in its compound and during annual festivals.

Estimates suggest that Wat Rai Khing and its many foundations earn around 100 million baht every year. The temple reportedly relies on this income to pay for utilities, staff and maintenance costs.

The temple also runs its own school and several other charity projects.

A former abbot reportedly spent over 95 million baht in donations to establish a 400-bed hospital under an initiative launched by His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great when he visited the temple in 1978.