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潮流時尚

將你帶回 80 年代的校園!直擊 Kenzo 2023 春夏大秀!

GQ

更新於 2022年07月05日15:54 • 發布於 2022年07月04日11:21 • Lorry Liao

裏原宿傳奇 NIGO 上任 Kenzo 創意總監後,Kenzo 立馬成為了全時尚圈的焦點。這次在 2023 春夏巴黎時裝周,NIGO 為我們帶來了他在 Kenzo 的第二個時裝秀,再次以他對於時尚的獨特見解重新詮釋 Kenzo 當今的樣貌。

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Fashion designer Tomoaki Nagao aka Nigo walks the runway at the end of the Kenzo Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Fashion designer Tomoaki Nagao aka Nigo walks the runway at the end of the Kenzo Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images)

這次時裝周邀請函中有這麼一個形狀突兀的三角形信件,這是 Kenzo Pennants(三角旗),復古的 80 年代運動旗幟,常用於過去的高中運動競賽。當我們走入秀場,我們逐漸看到了更多類似的元素。NIGO 不僅將秀的場地選在了 Lycee Carnot 高中,還在學校的中庭擺滿了寫有各式各樣字體的 Kenzo 旗幟,也在各位來賓的座位上附上了一個能夠手持的小旗幟,像極了 80 年代高中的運動比賽現場,全場氣氛十分活躍。

至於服裝方面,NIGO 延續了上次系列中比較復古、可愛、年輕的服裝,並著重強調了 Real-To-Wear 的概念,倡導將時裝設計真正體現於現實生活。這次比較突出的 look 有俏皮可愛的水手服,藍白相間的圍巾陪上相同色系的水手帽,這樣的造型十分的休閒卻不失時尚感。值得一提的是這次 Kenzo 的帽款,包括草編軟氈帽、草編遮陽帽、圓頂禮帽、以及剛才所提到的水手帽都是由 NIGO 與維也納女帽商 Mühlbauer 共同創造,是本次巴黎時裝周帽類單品的 highlight。

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

Kenzo 品牌創始人高田賢三先生在服裝上十分喜歡的元素有色彩和動物,而 NIGO 在這次的秀中也完美的傳承了這兩個元素。無論是色彩斑斕的 Boke Boy 形象或是大象圖案的印花襯衫,Kenzo 的 DNA 是顯而易見的。順道一提,Kenzo 的「zo」在日語和「大象」同音,這也是這次大象印花的來源。

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Menswear Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

在走秀閉場以及謝幕的時候,現場換上了 Drill Music 的伴奏,這是長年在嘻哈圈中活動的 NIGO 對於自己所喜愛的文化的一個致敬,相信在座的 NIGO 老粉各個馬上都 get 到了這個細節。

在走秀結束後 Kenzo 隨後舉辦了一個 After Party,提供食物、音樂、以及社交的空間。明星、模特、編輯、買手,甚至是 NIGO 本人都參加了這個派對,氣氛十分的美好。這樣的活動是在一週忙碌的時裝周中十分愉快、放鬆的一段時間。

感謝 Kenzo 這次的邀約,也期待看到品牌未來的表現。

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