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潮流時尚

從圍巾、絲巾到領巾,最齊全的打法、圍巾圍法一次解密!要營造「高級感」就靠這個時髦配件!

VOGUE

更新於 2020年12月04日09:24 • 發布於 2020年12月03日06:15 • Travis Hung

不起眼的圍巾通常不會受到它應有的重視,作為時尚穿搭用品,各個時裝品牌都有自己獨特的圍巾設計,讓人一眼就能認出,像是Burberry的條紋、Etro的變形蟲花紋和Alexander McQueen的骷髏頭。追溯圍巾的起源,圍巾被普遍認為第一次出現是在古埃及時期,據信娜芙蒂蒂王后Queen Nefertiti的頭飾下是編織的圍巾;在古羅馬時代,工人戴亞麻圍巾吸汗。歷史上有許多國家使用不同顏色的圍巾標示軍隊裡的位階。

 

直到19世紀和20世紀,圍巾才成為時尚單品。維多利亞女王統治英國(1837年到1901年)期間,絲巾成為奢侈品的象徵,而在50年代和60年代,女星碧姬芭杜Brigitte Bardot,費唐娜薇Faye Dunaway,洛琳白考兒Lauren Bacall和比安卡傑格Bianca Jagger等人將絲巾作為展現偶像魅力的經典時尚配件。1956年葛麗絲凱莉Grace Kelly摔斷手臂,她沒有使用醫院的裝備,而是用愛馬仕Hermès圍巾做肩懸帶。較新的例子是,美國歌手藍尼克羅維茲Lenny Kravitz披戴大圍巾,在網路掀起熱烈討論,令人難忘。

 

Her arm in a sling, Princess Grace of Monaco prepares to board the yacht of Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis for a 10-day cruise in the Mediterranean. The Princess was making the voyage despite her injury. Her arm was reported to be slightly infected due to a scratch from a rusty nail.
Her arm in a sling, Princess Grace of Monaco prepares to board the yacht of Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis for a 10-day cruise in the Mediterranean. The Princess was making the voyage despite her injury. Her arm was reported to be slightly infected due to a scratch from a rusty nail.
87474, These images of Lenny Kravitz wearing a giant knit scarf in 2012 have been making the rounds online as Fall temperatures dip across the country. Lenny's giant scarf, which he wore while out for a stroll in NY, became a sensation two years after they were first captured when they became a meme on Buzzfeed and Reddit. ORIGINAL CAPTION: Lenny Kravitz fights the winter chill with a giant scarf and knit hat, as he goes out and about in New York City. NEW YORK, NEW YORK - Sunday November 25, 2012. Photograph: © PacificCoastNews. Los Angeles Office: +1 310.822.0419 sales@pacificcoastnews.com FEE MUST BE AGREED PRIOR TO USAGE
87474, These images of Lenny Kravitz wearing a giant knit scarf in 2012 have been making the rounds online as Fall temperatures dip across the country. Lenny's giant scarf, which he wore while out for a stroll in NY, became a sensation two years after they were first captured when they became a meme on Buzzfeed and Reddit. ORIGINAL CAPTION: Lenny Kravitz fights the winter chill with a giant scarf and knit hat, as he goes out and about in New York City. NEW YORK, NEW YORK - Sunday November 25, 2012. Photograph: © PacificCoastNews. Los Angeles Office: +1 310.822.0419 sales@pacificcoastnews.com FEE MUST BE AGREED PRIOR TO USAGE

2014年出版「50種圍巾戴法50 Ways to Wear a Scarf」的作者和插畫家Lauren Friedman建議,可以到古董店尋寶找尋有特色的圍巾。她說購買復古圍巾是找到獨特圖案和顏色的好方法。此外,在古董店裡更容易找到高品質布料的圍巾,如真絲或羊毛,而且價格實惠。除了挑選圍巾的圖案與質料,圍巾的搭配與戴法也是非常重要的,從絲巾到冬季圍巾,以下提供你8種不同的圍巾戴法。

 如何戴冬季圍巾 

如果你認為冬季圍巾只有一種戴法,那就錯了。當你的造型需要配件作改變時,長方形圍巾是很棒的選擇,絕對能讓造型多了一個亮點。

法國結 

這是很經典的打法,具有時尚風格。 

  • 將長方形圍巾折成兩半,並纏繞在脖子後面。 

  • 取圍巾的末端並將它穿過環。 

  • 取下環形邊的下半部並拉過上半部分。 

  • 將圍巾的第二個末端穿過新的環。

NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12: Camille Charriere a checked coat, beige scarf outside J. Crew on February 12, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12: Camille Charriere a checked coat, beige scarf outside J. Crew on February 12, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)

 懸垂 

適合戴在西裝外套或襯衫上,建議選擇色彩和圖案鮮豔的圍巾,以充分展現時尚風格。

  •  拉開西裝外套的衣領,在脖子後繫一條長圍巾,使兩端均勻地掛在前面。 

  • 將西裝外套的翻領折回到圍巾上,調整圍巾,讓它依你想要的樣子懸垂。

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Richard Young/REX/Shutterstock (9420505dh)Adwoa AboahBurberry Show, Front Row, London Fashion Week, UK - 17 Feb 2018WEARING BURBERRY SAME OUTFIT AS CATWALK MODEL *9419506ad
Mandatory Credit: Photo by Richard Young/REX/Shutterstock (9420505dh)Adwoa AboahBurberry Show, Front Row, London Fashion Week, UK - 17 Feb 2018WEARING BURBERRY SAME OUTFIT AS CATWALK MODEL *9419506ad

如何戴大圍巾 

大圍巾具有時尚多功能,有多種用途。大長方形圍巾非常適合旅行,它不僅可以用作圍巾,還能當披肩、毯子或海灘用圍巾。

輕鬆自在 

這種圍巾打法能呈現出簡單又悠閒的風格。看看The Row的創始人歐爾森姐妹Ashley和Mary-Kate Olsen,她們經常在冬天戴羊毛圍巾。 

  • 將一條大圍巾、披肩或pashmina披在脖子後面,將圍巾展開在兩邊肩膀上。

  •  將圍巾的一端披到另一邊的肩膀上。

NEW YORK, NY - MARCH 16:  Mary-Kate Olsen (L) and Ashley Olsen attend 2015 CFDA Fashion Awards Announcement Party at The Weather Room at the Top of the Rock on March 16, 2015 in New York City.  (Photo by Rob Kim/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NY - MARCH 16: Mary-Kate Olsen (L) and Ashley Olsen attend 2015 CFDA Fashion Awards Announcement Party at The Weather Room at the Top of the Rock on March 16, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Rob Kim/Getty Images)

 懶女孩戴法 

如果你是一個圍巾初學者,這個懶女孩戴法絕對是入門的好方法。 

1.只需在脖子上纏一條長長的圍巾

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Most Wanted/REX/Shutterstock (630623c)Mary Kate OlsenMary Kate Olsen out and about in West Hollywood, Los Angeles, America - 28 Dec 2006
Mandatory Credit: Photo by Most Wanted/REX/Shutterstock (630623c)Mary Kate OlsenMary Kate Olsen out and about in West Hollywood, Los Angeles, America - 28 Dec 2006

 如何戴正方形圍巾 

方形圍巾具有多功能,非常實用。近年來,可以看到正方形圍巾重返伸展台,Alessandro Michele在倫敦西敏寺教堂舉辦的2017 Gucci度假系列大秀,向愛好圍巾的伊麗莎白二世女王致敬,而Balenciaga,Acne Studios和Céline在2017年秋冬系列也都跟進,Proenza Schouler在2019春夏系列走秀,也安排模特兒戴折疊的方領巾走秀。

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Tim Rooke/REX/Shutterstock (10038673ab)Queen Elizabeth II  arriving at King's Lynn railway stationRoyal visit to Sandringham, Norfolk, UK - 20 Dec 2018Headscarf by Burberry, Bag by Launer, Shoes by Gucci
Mandatory Credit: Photo by Tim Rooke/REX/Shutterstock (10038673ab)Queen Elizabeth II arriving at King's Lynn railway stationRoyal visit to Sandringham, Norfolk, UK - 20 Dec 2018Headscarf by Burberry, Bag by Launer, Shoes by Gucci

 頭巾 

50年代和60年代的時尚必備品,看看賈桂琳甘迺迪歐納西斯Jackie Kennedy Onassis不同風格的搭配,以及奧黛麗赫本Audrey Hepburn在電影《第凡內早餐Breakfast at Tiffany’s》,展現時尚感時戴上頭巾。 

  • 將一條小方形圍巾以對角方式折成對半,形成一個三角形。 

  • 將圍巾放在頭上,圍巾的長折疊邊緣圍在髮際線的前額上,圍巾的其餘部分覆蓋在頭上。 

  • 將折疊的角牢牢地固定在下巴下方。

British actress Audrey Hepburn on the set of Breakfast at Tiffany's, based on the novel by Truman Capote and directed by Blake Edwards. (Photo by Paramount Pictures/Sunset Boulevard/Corbis via Getty Images)
British actress Audrey Hepburn on the set of Breakfast at Tiffany's, based on the novel by Truman Capote and directed by Blake Edwards. (Photo by Paramount Pictures/Sunset Boulevard/Corbis via Getty Images)
(Original Caption) Brigitte Bardot on the set of 'Come Dance with Me !' by Michel Boisrond. (Photo by Sunset Boulevard/Corbis via Getty Images)
(Original Caption) Brigitte Bardot on the set of 'Come Dance with Me !' by Michel Boisrond. (Photo by Sunset Boulevard/Corbis via Getty Images)

領巾 

領巾是另一個讓人想起50年代和60年代風華的時尚,再次由奧黛麗赫本引領風潮,在電影《羅馬假期Roman Holiday》裡,她穿著一件開領襯衫。 

  • 將一條小方形圍巾以對角方式折成三角形。

  •  從小的點開始,以5-7公分的大小折疊翻轉領巾,並繼續翻倍,直到它變的扁平。

  •  將圍巾繞在脖子上一次(或根據圍巾的大小放兩次),並在脖子上打結紮緊。 

  • 調整到你要的造型。

Audrey Hepburn gleefully drives a motorscooter on the set of Roman Holiday.
Audrey Hepburn gleefully drives a motorscooter on the set of Roman Holiday.
(Original Caption) 9/5/56-Paris, France: Princess Grace of Monaco, the former Grace Kelly of Philadelphia and Hollywood, smiles radiantly in this closeup made in Paris shortly after she and her husband, Prince Rainier III, arrived on the first leg of their journey to the U.S. The royal couple will sail for New York Friday on the liner United States and return to Monaco early in November to await the arrival of thier child sometime in February. Princess Grace told newsmen that she is forsaking her film career to concentrate on being a wife and mother. Photo by Jose Berrueta
(Original Caption) 9/5/56-Paris, France: Princess Grace of Monaco, the former Grace Kelly of Philadelphia and Hollywood, smiles radiantly in this closeup made in Paris shortly after she and her husband, Prince Rainier III, arrived on the first leg of their journey to the U.S. The royal couple will sail for New York Friday on the liner United States and return to Monaco early in November to await the arrival of thier child sometime in February. Princess Grace told newsmen that she is forsaking her film career to concentrate on being a wife and mother. Photo by Jose Berrueta

 如何戴絲巾 

絲巾可能讓人想起祖母時代的時尚風格,但你只要看看超模凱特摩絲Kate Moss,把絲巾戴出搖滾風格,完全不顯老。

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Beretta/Sims/REX/Shutterstock (5635942m)Kate MossKate Moss out and about, London, Britain - 12 Apr 2016
Mandatory Credit: Photo by Beretta/Sims/REX/Shutterstock (5635942m)Kate MossKate Moss out and about, London, Britain - 12 Apr 2016

 領帶 

你可以選擇更大膽的花紋,越有活力越好,但要掌握一個原則:寬度要窄。

  •  在脖子後面垂掛一條長圍巾,讓一端比另一端長。

  •  將長端放在短端上,將長端包在短端下方。

  •  再次將長的那端向前移,在短端繞圈。 

  • 將長端拉到短端後面,然後穿過脖子上的環。 

  • 將長端塞入你打的結前面並調整長度,一直拉緊到喉嚨看起來更正式,或將領帶結放低以創造休閒感。

    半弓 

領帶結的一種變化打法,你可以選擇面積更寬的圍巾來打這個結。

  • 在脖子後面垂下一條長方形圍巾,使兩端均勻地懸掛在前面。 

  • 在其中一側,在脖子和圍巾末端的中間打一個鬆的結。

  • 將圍巾的另一側夾在中間,將其部分穿過結,形成一半弓形。

  • 收緊原來的結並根據需要調整弓形。

 

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