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潮流時尚

防水外套、防水鞋成穿搭主流?不只是把機能穿上身而已,關於「Gorpcore」機能風暴紅不能不知道的5件事!

GQ

更新於 2023年03月21日15:50 • 發布於 2023年03月20日12:53 • Jim

不難發現早已席捲潮流圈的戶外風潮,近年來不僅熱度尚未退燒,甚至更因為後疫情時代持續風靡,去年更是出現了「Gorpcore」一詞,再次將「機能」這個過去認為只會在戶外活動裡出現的詞彙帶向了全新境界,而究竟如此受人熱議的 Gorpcore 是什麼?又是如何一步步造就時至今日街拍型人們的爭相效仿?這回就讓 GQ 來帶你深入解析!

關於「Gorpcore」機能風 1. 何謂「Gorpcore」?

先讓還沒聽過或者才剛接觸的讀者快速進入狀況,我們可以先把「Gorpcore」這個詞一分為二,「Gorp」實際上為不少登山客、徒步旅行者為補充熱量的零食「Good Ol’ Raisins and Peanuts」的縮寫,而「Core」則是字面上「核心」的意思,代表著延續前者核心精神的視覺風格,(一樣的概念也同步適用於 Normcore、Dadcore、Thriftcore 等),又或者直接一點來說,Gorpcore 即為透過著用機能服飾與其他日常單品相互搭配,實踐在生活當中的自在與舒適。

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在 Instagram 查看這則貼文

關於「Gorpcore」機能風 2. 由戶外走入日常,從街頭跨足時裝

也許是拜疫情所賜,人們開始越來越願意到戶外進行更多活動,機能服的必須性越來越高,從戶外,到街頭,當講究純粹的戶外探索,與愜意穿梭在城市裡的日常二者間的界線漸趨模糊,再到後來「走出家門即是戶外」的生活概念被提出後,著用機能服飾這件事情早已不侷限於那些看似遙不可及的極端戶外行程中,而是即便今早出門下著滂沱大雨,你仍然能靠著一件防水外套優雅地踏進辦公室。

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過去都是伸展台上影響著街頭潮流居多,而這次先是從了街頭影響到了精品時尚。早在 Supreme、Mastermind 等指標性街頭品牌與 The North Face 發布聯名系列的搶購熱潮即可發現,結合機能性的戶外單品早已悄悄進入服裝圈,而 2020 年隨著 Alessandro Michele 接手的 Gucci 宣布與 The North Face 推出聯名系列後,可說是正式的開啟「戶外機能」與「時裝」相戶結合的大門,接續而來的 Jil Sander x Arc’teryx 更是再度劃破了其中的界線與既定印象。

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 13: A guest wears a brown felt beret, a red with black and white print pattern scarf, a navy blue denim shirt, a beige and brown GG monogram print pattern hoodie oversized puffer jacket from The North Face x Gucci, black pants, a brown leather with GG monogram print pattern in coated canvas and red Mickey pattern crossbody bag from Gucci, outside Ulla Johnson, during New York Fashion Week on February 13, 2022 in New York City. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 13: A guest wears a brown felt beret, a red with black and white print pattern scarf, a navy blue denim shirt, a beige and brown GG monogram print pattern hoodie oversized puffer jacket from The North Face x Gucci, black pants, a brown leather with GG monogram print pattern in coated canvas and red Mickey pattern crossbody bag from Gucci, outside Ulla Johnson, during New York Fashion Week on February 13, 2022 in New York City. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

而除了 Gucci 與 Jil Sander 以外,即便不與戶外品牌聯名,也能夠從如 Dior、JACQUEMUS 等等這一兩年的秀場中看見不少 Gorpcore 的概念與設計元素,讓機能服飾逐漸地由街頭邁向時裝,更甚加速了如今的 Gorpcore 熱潮。

Dior 23ss menswear

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Dior Homme Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on June 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Dior Homme Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on June 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Dior Homme Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on June 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Dior Homme Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on June 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Dior Homme Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on June 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Dior Homme Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on June 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

JACQUEMUS 22fw

關於「Gorpcore」機能風 3. 不可或缺的名人效應

得益於露營帶起的戶外風潮,在緊接而來的疫情爆發所造成的生活劇變下,不僅改變了人們以往過去所習慣的生活方式,更進一步影響了對於服裝本身的追求,當穿著打扮回歸舒適與實用,因為常態性的封閉生活而更加渴望探索戶外的心境日間遽增,無疑是將 Gorpcore 一詞由網路新興詞彙帶向流行趨勢的催化劑。

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而除了消費心理的改變,名人加持當然也必不可少,舉凡 ASAP Rocky、Bella Hadid 亦或是 Frank Ocean 都曾在街拍中被捕捉到透過混搭機能服飾來呈現 Gorpcore 的亮眼造型,甚至 Virgil Abloh 更在 Louis Vuitton 22 秋冬男裝謝幕時著用亮眼的天藍色 Arc’teryx Alpha SV,當這樣不論在街頭還是時裝界中的指標性人物陸續上身這些單品,綜合環境與趨勢的影響下,也不難得為何如今 Gorpcore 可以如此蔚為風潮。

PARIS, France – January 16: Fashion designer Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton show during Paris Fashion Week Men’s on January 16 at Jardin des Tulleries, 2020 PARIS, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, France – January 16: Fashion designer Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton show during Paris Fashion Week Men’s on January 16 at Jardin des Tulleries, 2020 PARIS, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 17: Frank Ocean wears an orange puffer jacket, a beanie hat from Arc'Teryx, outside Louis Vuitton, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear F/W 2019-2020,  on January 17, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 17: Frank Ocean wears an orange puffer jacket, a beanie hat from Arc'Teryx, outside Louis Vuitton, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear F/W 2019-2020, on January 17, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 10: ASAP Rocky wearing a red down feather jacket, Balenciaga bag, orange zip jacket outside Calvin Klein on February 10, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 10: ASAP Rocky wearing a red down feather jacket, Balenciaga bag, orange zip jacket outside Calvin Klein on February 10, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)

關於「Gorpcore」機能風 4. 不只是把機能穿上身

或許看到這裡,不少讀者心中會有著「這和 Urban Outdoor 之間的差異又是為何?」的疑問,雖然 Gorpcore 與 Urban Outdoor 在「兼顧日常與戶外」的概念相仿,但相較以大地色系、都市日常使用情境為主,並不追求從頭到尾皆須符合機能性的 Urban Outdoor,在 Gorpcore 中常見的單品不只在用色上以更加大膽鮮明的橘、黃、紅等高飽和度色彩呈現,產品本身更是為了那些嚴峻、富挑戰性的戶外場域量身打造,單品之間的搭配手法也相當多元(即便上身穿著硬殼防水外套,下身搭配直筒寬褲和厚底皮鞋也不成問題),因此 Gorpcore 不僅用途更加廣泛,也更能去實踐真正的「兼顧日常與戶外」。

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在 Instagram 查看這則貼文

關於「Gorpcore」機能風 5. 新舊混搭更有味

不僅限於市場上最新的戶外產品,不少 Gorpcore 玩家更愛四處蒐羅富有年代感,但時至今日仍舊時髦的經典單品,其中不乏 Nike ACG、Patagonia、Oakley 等,而最大的共通點除了顏色之外,這些外套不論在版型、剪裁上都更為寬鬆,部分短版的設計更是 Gorpcore 常見的搭配元素之一,而隨著 Gorpcore 熱度持續延燒,更有許多新興設計師於各自的社群媒體上推出各式訂製單品來滿足追求小眾、獨特的玩家。

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在 Instagram 查看這則貼文

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