時尚是造夢者的天堂,然而它是否僅僅是夢想的延伸?在思考時尚未來的同時,是否應更貼近人性?Prada 2025 秋冬男裝系列「Unbroken Instincts」,Miuccia Prada 與 Raf Simons 透過無盡的對話,回歸服裝的本質——「人」,探討何為「人類天性與原始本能」?創意總監 Miuccia Prada 說道:「在人的本能中,可以展現一種新的精緻與親密的野性優雅,不經意的對比,催生出意想不到而迷人的組合,身體得以擺脫理性的束縛,穿著也變得更加自由。」他們最終找到了答案:回歸內心深處的浪漫。
A model walks the runway during the Prada collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Men's Fall / Winter 2025-2026 in Milan, Italy, on January 19, 2025 (Photo by Piero CRUCIATTI / AFP) (Photo by PIERO CRUCIATTI/AFP via Getty Images) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage) 一進入秀場,裡頭宏大的高架鷹架結構彷彿一道道迷宮,裸露的金屬材質帶來壓迫感與不穩定性,模特從最高層緩緩步行,穿過無牆的房間,沿著藝術家 Catherine Martin 設計帶有新藝術風格圖案的地毯樓梯,一步步走向底層,觀眾被包圍在這狹小的空間中,這種宏大與脆弱的對比,象徵著人的本能與理智的反覆交替,而我們每個人,無不身處這個不穩定的現代世界縮影中。
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage) 揭開序幕的是一套赤褐色基本款針織上衣配上金屬銀飾項鍊,看似簡單卻也是最有力的一套開場 Look,這些仿宗教符號的項鍊,如同護身符,呼應了人類對安定的本能需求,Miuccia Prada 和 Raf Simons 巧妙運用金屬冷冽質感與針織柔軟的對比,進一步強調了這種本能中所隱含的衝突與和諧。即使身處混亂之中,尋求內心安穩仍是人類最深層的驅動力。
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show as part of the Milan Men Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images) 「邏輯」並非這場秀的首要準則,許多不按牌理出牌的搭配讓人眼睛為之一亮。包括商業西裝外套搭配棉質長褲、亮面緞紋長褲混搭馬德拉斯格紋睡袍、對比搶眼的撞色羽絨外套、甚至是經典紳士形象的大衣裡頭卻是搭配 70 年代花卉圖案的「床單風」Bodysuit。「我們試圖避免過度理論化,而是讓一切感覺『正確』。服裝成為傳遞內心感受與本能的媒介,從而讓觀眾以直觀方式解讀這些設計。」——Raf Simons,而秀場裡頭大量皮草的回歸,更令人聯想到人類最初以動物皮毛禦寒的原始需求。
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show as part of the Milan Men Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show as part of the Milan Men Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images) 大量出現的西部牛仔靴成為本場秀的主旋律之一,牛仔象徵著冒險精神與自我解放的態度,並進一步喚起了人類原始的探索渴望。無論是與皮革亮面和絲綢睡褲形成的鮮明對比,還是與花卉印花或內翻羊毛大衣的巧妙搭配,各種元素都在對比之中碰撞出新意。Miuccia Prada 和 Raf Simons 透過不斷的設計對話,將看似彼此衝突的細節融為一體,實現了矛盾中的和諧。
A model walks the runway during the Prada collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Men's Fall / Winter 2025-2026 in Milan, Italy, on January 19, 2025 (Photo by Piero CRUCIATTI / AFP) (Photo by PIERO CRUCIATTI/AFP via Getty Images) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage) MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2025 - 2026 Fashion Week on January 19, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage) 延伸閱讀:
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