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自從 Giorgio Armani 為李察·吉爾 Richard Gere 在《美國舞男 American Gigolo》片中的劇服設計一炮成名，這位義大利設計師至今已累積了 200 多部電影佳績。 Vogue 盤點 Giorgio Armani 的 8 部最棒的電影時尚作品！
Since his breakout film costuming Richard Gere in American Gigolo, the Italian designer has amassed credits on over 200 movies. Vogue takes a look at 8 of Giorgio Armani’s best big-screen fashion moments!
李奧納多·狄卡皮歐 Leonardo DiCaprio /《 華爾街之狼 The Wolf of Wall Street》
當榮獲三屆奧斯卡的劇服設計師 Sandy Powell 應邀為馬丁·史柯西斯 Martin Scorsese的資本主義喜劇片，物色適合 90 年代的權力套裝時，她直奔 Armani 的收藏館。有幸由設計師親自授權，Powell 從設計師經典的雙排釦細條紋西裝汲取靈感。Armani 的兩大創作現身大銀幕：時髦淺灰系和另一套海軍藍系西裝，由李奧納多·狄卡皮歐飾演的 Jordan Belfort 以冷派作風襯托；其他演員的服裝則由 Powell 與傳奇紐約裁縫大師 Leonard Logsdail共同手工打造。
When three-time Oscar-winning costume designer Sandy Powell was asked to source 1990s power suits for Scorsese’s capitalism romp, she made a beeline for the Armani archives. Granted privileged access by the designer himself, Powell took inspiration from the designer’s classic double-breasted pinstripe suits. Two of Armani’s creations appear on screen – a sharp suit in pale grey and another in navy, worn with nonchalance by Leonardo DiCaprio’s Jordan Belfort – while others were handcrafted by Powell and legendary New York tailor Leonard Logsdail.
布萊德彼特Brad Pitt /《惡棍特攻 Inglourious Basterds》
布萊德彼特飾演的中尉 Aldo Raine 在首映會上企圖暗殺希特勒及其黨羽時身穿什麼？當然是 Armani 訂製服。而作為昆汀·塔倫提諾黑色喜劇中的最終噱頭，設計師為布萊德彼特創造了一件象牙白高翻領晚宴西裝外套。完整搭配一朵紅色康乃馨、白色方口袋、黑領結和珍珠袖扣，瀟灑風貌有別於 劇中角色Raine 常見的褪色制服，並為後起的詹姆士龐德式的血洗效應預先鋪路。
What does First Lieutenant Aldo Raine (Brad Pitt’s role) wear to a premiere where he intends to assassinate Hitler and his henchmen? Custom Armani, of course. For the final set piece in Quentin Tarantino’s black comedy, the designer created an ivory dinner jacket with peak lapels for Brad Pitt. Complete with a red carnation, white pocket square, black bow tie and pearl cufflinks, it’s a suave departure from Raine’s usual weathered uniform and sets the scene for the James Bond-esque bloodbath that follows.
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克里斯汀·貝爾Christian Bale /《黑暗騎士 The Dark Knight》
先忘了那副面具！當克里斯多福·諾蘭的超級英雄鉅片於 2008 年登上大銀幕時，真正擄獲時尚群眾目光的是 Armani 專為布魯斯·韋恩 量身訂製的套裝。克里斯汀·貝爾 一派百萬的富豪貴氣，他的衣櫃中有雙釦 V 領寬墊肩外套搭配高品味真絲領帶，是 Armani 與劇服設計師 Lindy Hemming 共同打造的傑作。這對設計拍擋為《黑暗騎士：黎明昇起 The Dark Knight Rises》再次攜手合作，義大利大師同時也為片中的合作明星 米高·肯恩、蓋瑞·歐德曼和喬瑟夫·高登-李維打理全身造型。
Forget the mask – it was Bruce Wayne’s made-to-measure Armani suits that really caught the eye of the fashion crowd when Christopher Nolan’s superhero blockbuster hit screens in 2008. Christian Bale looks every inch the millionaire mogul in his wardrobe of two-button, notch-collar jackets with wide padded shoulders and delicate silk ties, created in collaboration with costume designer Lindy Hemming. The pair reunited for The Dark Knight Rises, for which the Italian maestro also outfitted co-stars Michael Caine, Gary Oldman and Joseph Gordon-Levitt.
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李察吉爾Richard Gere /《美國舞男 American Gigolo》
在保羅·許瑞德 Paul Schrader 1980 年劇中，作為男配角挑大樑的朱利安 Julian Kaye，宛如 Armani 男神化身：玩世不恭、精緻高品味與總是無可挑剔的穿著。設計師在創立品牌僅五年後，即授命為替該部電影中的演員李察吉爾打造服裝。這部電影為 Armani 贏得國際讚譽，並掀起男仕訂製服革命性風潮，將舊式方正筆挺的職場西裝變身，取而代之以隨性寬鬆、瀟灑再現。另外還有富家子弟性感開扣到肚臍的襯衫、俐落的卡其長褲以及束腰羊絨風衣，將義大利工藝與好萊塢的魅力四射完美結合。
Julian Kaye, the male escort at the centre of Paul Schrader’s 1980 drama, is the Armani man incarnate: louche, sophisticated and always impeccably dressed. The designer was commissioned to create Richard Gere’s wardrobe for the film just five years after having established his label. The film brought Armani international acclaim and revolutionised men’s tailoring, transforming the suit from a boxy workwear staple into something loose, light and decidedly elegant. There were also preppy shirts unbuttoned to the navel, crisp khaki trousers and a belted cashmere trench that combined Italian craftsmanship with all-out Hollywood glamour.
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小賈斯汀Justin Timberlake /《社群網戰 The Social Network》
在小賈斯汀簽約飾演由 David Fincher 導演所拍攝，有關臉書創辦人的電影中 Napster 創辦人 Sean Parker 一角後，他竭盡所能地要融入所飾角色——包括安排在 Armani 位於比佛利山莊店裡的試裝。據該片劇服設計師 Jacqueline West 所言，Parker 本尊的所有衣服都由這位義大利設計師專門訂製，因此小賈斯汀才會忠實仿傚他的全套造型。他完美的訂製外套疊襯於休閒 T 恤和牛仔褲外，形成獨具一格的現代科技創業家衣櫃。最後的裝飾？便是内側口袋上的手工縫製標籤印有：「Giorgio Armani 為 Sean Parker 特製」。
After Justin Timberlake signed on to play Napster founder Sean Parker in David Fincher’s drama about the founding of Facebook, he did everything possible to get into character – including arranging a fitting at the Armani store in Beverly Hills. According to the film’s costume designer Jacqueline West, the real Parker had all his clothing custom-made by the Italian designer and so Timberlake (literally) followed suit. His perfectly tailored jackets, layered over casual T-shirts and jeans, form the crux of his modern tech entrepreneur wardrobe. The finishing touch? Hand-sewn labels on the inside pockets that read: “Giorgio Armani for Sean Parker”.
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凱文·科斯納 Kevin Costner /《鐵面無私 The Untouchables》
禁酒時期的芝加哥為布萊恩·狄帕瑪Brian De Palma（《不可能的任務》導演） 1987 年的驚悚片營造時髦的背景，劇中凱文·科斯納 Kevin Costner 飾演一位懷抱理想的警察 Eliot Ness 對峙勞勃·狄尼洛Robert De Niro 所飾演的 Al Capone。Armani 為凱文·科斯納Costner 提供好幾套三件式西裝，包括他在市立法院屋頂上與槍手 Frank Nitti進行 最終大對決時所穿著的灰色系套裝。Costner 的簡潔線條與柔和色調將他提升到超然的境界，與 De Niro 不合身的夾克與浮誇領巾，形成鮮明對比。
Prohibition-era Chicago makes for a stylish setting in Brian De Palma’s 1987 thriller, which sees Kevin Costner’s idealistic police officer Eliot Ness face off against Robert De Niro’s Al Capone. Armani supplied several three-piece suits for Costner, including the grey ensemble he wears in the final showdown against gunman Frank Nitti on the roof of the city’s courthouse. Costner’s clean lines and subdued colour palettes lift him above the fray and stand in stark contrast to De Niro’s ill-fitting jackets and flamboyant cravats.
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雷李歐塔Ray Liota、勞勃狄尼洛Robert De Niro、喬佩西Joe Pesci / 《四海好傢伙 Goodfellas》
大導演馬丁·史柯西斯 Martin Scorsese 1990 年的電影作品，犯罪集團成員 Henry Hill 的興衰軼事，Armani 特製的套裝成功靈活重現當時紐約下流的犯罪陰暗面特質。設計師與導演自此有了多次合作經驗，兩人之間惺惺相惜的情份從一開始就展露無遺：同年 Armani 成為 Scorsese 紀錄短片《米蘭製造 Made in Milan》的主要題材，片中檢視設計師的創意過程並且向其創作致敬。
For Martin Scorsese’s 1990 fable about the rise and fall of mob associate Henry Hill, Armani tailored suits that captured the essence of New York’s seedy criminal underbelly. The designer and director have collaborated many times since, and their admiration was clearly mutual from the offset: that same year, Armani was the subject of Scorsese’s documentary short Made in Milan, which examined the designer’s creative processes and paid tribute to his work.
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克萊夫·歐文Clive Owen / 《口是心非 Duplicity》
是克萊夫·歐文Clive Owen （東尼·吉洛伊Tony Gilroy 所執導2009 年的愛情喜劇的明星）將他的最新拍攝呈現給 Armani。這位男星在米蘭時裝週會場，將導演介紹給設計師，因而促成了後續的發展。Armani 與該片的服裝師 Albert Wolsky 商討，打造 Owen 銀幕上的每一件戲服。從簡潔建構西裝到時尚俐落風衣、飛行員造型和 Armani 私家手錶，每一細節都再現好萊塢黃金年代風光。
It was Clive Owen, the star of Tony Gilroy’s 2009 romantic caper, who brought his latest project to Armani. The actor introduced his director to the designer at Milan Fashion Week, and the rest was history. Armani consulted with the film’s costumer Albert Wolsky to create every piece of clothing Owen wore on screen. From immaculately constructed suits to sleek trench coats, aviators and Armani Privé watches, every detail harks back to the Golden Age of Hollywood.
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