Price: About HK$450 without drinks or the service charge.
Ambience: Very quiet on the night we visited. There was only one other table in the main dining room we were in, but we could hear a group of guests in a private room, who sounded as if they were having a very good time.
Pros: While you could spend a lot here on dishes using dried seafood and market-price fresh seafood, if you order carefully you can have a reasonably priced meal. There were a lot of dishes we wanted to order, if we'd had a larger group.
Cons: They forgot to serve us one dish, but it actually turned out to be good, because we had enough food without it.
Recommended dishes: Jellyfish head with spring onion oil (HK$140 for small, $220 for large) was crunchy, light and cool. Deep-fried pigeon (HK$90 each) had succulent, richly flavoured meat and delicately crisp skin.
Steamed minced pork (HK$220) came with a choice of preserved vegetable, salted egg, or water chestnuts and squid; we pickled the latter. The homestyle dish was roughly textured but subtly flavoured; it would have been better with a little more fat.
We should have ordered rice to eat with the stir-fried grouper fillet with Chinese olive and tangerine peel (HK$540); the fish was tender but the accompaniments were very strong, especially the dried olives.
All of the main dishes went well with the sweet, perfectly cooked stalks of gai lan (Chinese kale) simmered in a light broth with whole garlic cloves (HK$220) - a simple dish done well.
What else? Two of the managers recognised one of my guests, who was a regular at Fook Lam Moon, where they both worked previously. Also, you will not find the name in English on the signboard of the building.
Ho Land, 4/F, The Broadway, 54-62 Lockhart Road, tel: 2383 8112
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