The Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong is an unusual locale in which to find weavers from one of India’s remotest regions, Kashmir, to set up handlooms and make shawls, but if you walked into the upscale hotel’s function room this week, it’s this very sight that would have greeted you. They are here as part of a brand showcase by Pashmkaar Kashmir, an Indian pashmina brand with a presence in Hong Kong, Canada, the US and more.

Anyone with a working knowledge of fashion has heard of pashmina and knows it is an expensive woollen fabric. But, in reality, it’s so much more than that. It’s a rich tapestry of culture and tradition, which has flourished in the Himalayan region for over 600 years.

Read now: How India’s fashion industry is weaving heritage into its fabric and designs

A legacy of artistry

The craft of pashmina weaving is not merely a trade in Kashmir; it is an art form passed down through generations

The craft of pashmina weaving is not merely a trade in Kashmir; it is an art form passed down through generations

The roots of pashmina weaving can be traced back to the 15th century when it was first introduced in the region. The term “pashmina” itself is derived from the Persian word “pashm”, meaning wool, specifically the fine cashmere wool sourced from the Changthangi goat found in the high altitudes of the Himalayas. This wool came to be revered for its warmth and lightweight qualities, making it the go-to choice for royals and the nobility.

But the craft of pashmina weaving is not merely a trade; it is an art form passed down through generations. Each piece is crafted entirely by hand, often taking years to be completed due to the intricate patterns and designs that reflect the cultural heritage of Kashmir. The motifs used in pashmina shawls often draw from nature, history and folklore, capturing the beauty of the region in every thread.

But in modern times, the future of this ancient craft hangs in the balance, facing challenges that threaten not only the livelihoods of its craftsmen but the very essence of Kashmir’s identity.

Handloom vs power loom

To the naked eye, it might be hard to tell the difference between pashmina made by hand or machine

To the naked eye, it might be hard to tell the difference between pashmina made by hand or machine

In recent years, the rise of power looms presents a significant challenge to traditional handloom weaving. While power looms can produce pashmina-like products at a fraction of the price, they lack the authenticity and craftsmanship that define true pashmina. This has led to a market flooded with inferior products, making it difficult for traditional artisans to compete.

But as Tariq Dar, the founder of Pashmkaar puts it, “The difference is between wearing real diamonds and cubic zirconia or crystals. If you are looking to buy the real thing, it’s expensive, but you won’t get the warmth, texture and intricate detailing of real pashmina from fake products.”

But to the naked eye, it might be hard to tell the difference. That’s why the government of Jammu and Kashmir has stepped up. “From this year, the government has added a GI (geographical index) certification proving the provenance of real pashmina products. Buyers can just scan the QR code attached to the product tag to verify its authenticity. All our products, for example, come with the GI tag, because coming from a family of weavers and embroiderers, we are committed to preserving the authenticity of this craft,” says Dar.

As consumers increasingly opt for cheaper alternatives, traditional weavers are struggling to make a living from their craft, threatening the very survival of this age-old tradition.

Plight vs pride

Kani shawl is a kind of pashmina shawl which is woven like a carpet, thread by thread, based on a coded pattern system called talim

Kani shawl is a kind of pashmina shawl which is woven like a carpet, thread by thread, based on a coded pattern system called talim

Despite the cultural importance of pashmina weaving, traditional weavers do find it difficult to make a living from their craft as consumers tend to lean towards cheaper alternatives. Many artisans also often receive meagre wages for their labour-intensive work. This can discourage the younger generation from pursuing this craft, leading to a potential loss of skills and knowledge. Dar says, “I have been actively lobbying within the industry to raise the minimum wage of artisans, but as long as buyers opt for cheaper alternatives and the demand for pashmina does not increase, the problem of low wages won’t go away.

But amid these challenges, the craftsmen who do pursue this profession—many of them multigenerational weavers—take immense pride in their work. Tatler spoke to one such weaver, Niyaz Ahmad, at the showcase at Mandarin Oriental, who said, “Each shawl we create is tangible proof of not only my artistry but my forefathers’ artistry because they have passed this knowledge to me. Weaving is not merely a job for me, it is a passion that connects me to my heritage and my land.”

This passion is evident as he bends down on his handloom and works away at making a kani shawl, which is woven like a carpet, thread by thread, based on a coded pattern system called talim, which has been passed to him by his ancestors. It will take Ahmad three years to complete one piece of shawl if he works eight hours a day, so he’s not stopping anytime soon.

Empowering women through craft

Many women in Kashmir have taken to weaving to get financial independence

Many women in Kashmir have taken to weaving to get financial independence

The pashmina industry is also a vital source of empowerment for women in Kashmir. Many women have taken to weaving, finding a means of income and independence in a traditionally male-dominated field. It gives them a platform for self-expression and creativity—and equally importantly, allows them to work from home, an attribute that, as Dar points out, can be the deciding factor in conservative family situations.

What more can be done?

Policies that promote handloom weaving are crucial to saving the craft

Policies that promote handloom weaving are crucial to saving the craft

According to Dar, “Government support is crucial. India’s prime minister Narendra Modi acts as an ambassador for pashmina shawls, wearing them at state functions and gifting them to heads of state like US President Joe Biden. But more needs to be done. Policies that promote handloom weaving and officially give it a special protected status will help save this craft from going extinct”—because, ultimately, a pashmina is not merely a piece of clothing you wear for warmth, it is Kashmir’s story woven in fabric.

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How Kashmiri weavers are keeping pashmina, a 600-year-old craft, from going obsolete