Indian filmmaker Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s latest Netflix series, Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar has been making waves since it released earlier this year. Set in 1920s Lahore, in pre-independent India, it depicts the lives oftawaifs (courtesans or dancing girls who performed exclusively for the nobility), amid India’s fight for freedom from British rule. The eight-episode saga is not only a study in culture, colour and historical grandeur, but it is also a visual feast of outfits and exquisite jewellery infused heavily with Mughal influences.
As the intricate storyline of Heeramandi unfolds, so do the layers of ornate costumes and breathtaking jewels. The task of bringing these historical adornments to life was entrusted to jewellery designers Vinay and Anshu Gupta of Shri Paramani Jewels of New Delhi. The duo, who created 10,000 pieces of high jewellery for the show, belongs to a family who in the old times were the treasurers of the Mughals themselves.
Mughal jewellery represents one of the most extravagant and artistic expressions of personal adornment that flourished under the Mughal empire, which ruled most of the Indian subcontinent from the early 16th to the mid-18th century. The Mughals, with their Persian roots, developed a distinctive style in Indian architecture, art and jewellery, which has left a lasting legacy.
Here, we delve into the world of Mughal jewellery as seen through the lens of Heeramandi.
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Jewellery as a status symbol
Mughal jewellery was not merely worn as an accessory but as a symbol of power. Historically worn by royalty and nobility, these pieces were designed to signify wealth and status.
During their public appearances, Mughal emperors often wore sarpech or turban ornament to signify their royal status. These pieces were typically made of gold and embellished with diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. The design often included a central feather-shaped element, which was reminiscent of a royal sceptre.
Besides wearable jewellery, one of the most famous examples of Mughal opulence is the Peacock Throne, commissioned by Emperor Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal in Agra. This throne was adorned with an array of precious gemstones such as diamonds, rubies, pearls and emeralds, which symbolised the emperor’s supreme power and wealth.
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Jewellery as a diplomatic tool
As seen in many instances in Heeramandi, Mughal emperors or nawabs often gifted jewellery to foreign ambassadors, dignitaries and their love conquests. For instance, gem-studded bracelets and necklaces were popular gifts that not only served as symbols of the Mughal’s wealth but also as diplomatic tools intended to impress and build alliances. They also used jewellery to secure marriage alliances. Princesses from the Mughal empire were often sent to marry princes of neighbouring states along with dowries that included vast amounts of exquisite jewellery, which were considered to be a measure of the value of the alliance.
Traditional craftsmanship and motifs
The Mughal era is celebrated for its extraordinary advancement in jewellery craftsmanship, epitomised by techniques such as kundan, meenakari and jadau, which have been preserved and highlighted in the Netflix series by the Gupta duo.
Kundan involved a meticulous process where gold foil was used to set and hold stones in place without the use of prongs, resulting in a seamless and lustrous finish that maximised the brilliance of the gems.
Meenakari, the art of enamelling, added vibrant colours to metal surfaces, often depicting floral and faunal motifs that are iconic to Mughal aesthetics.
Jadau work involved embedding precious stones into softened gold, a technique that not only enhanced the stone’s appearance but also secured its placement in the jewellery piece.
The jewellery during this time also boasted intricate motifs such as flowers, birds and geometric patterns, each with its own symbolism. For instance, the lotus flower, commonly seen in Mughal designs, symbolised beauty and eternity.
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Significance of gemstones
Mughals loved wearing precious gemstones like diamonds, pearls, emeralds and rubies. Each stone was not only chosen for its beauty but also for its supposed properties and spiritual significance. Emeralds represented fertility and rebirth—which is perhaps why in a pivotal scene in Heeramandi, one of the tawaifs is seen selling off another’s newborn son in exchange of an emerald necklace. Another stone that was esteemed for its hardness was diamond, and its hardness came to signify invincibility and fortitude in Mughal times. In a nod to this symbolism, the central protagonist of Heeramandi and its most authoritative figure, Mallikajaan, played by Bollywood actress Manisha Koirala, is shown wearing plenty of diamond necklaces and earrings. In contrast, her daughter Alamzeb, played by Sharmin Segal, is depicted as an innocent young girl, and in the scene she first appears on-screen, a servant is shown helping her wear a pearl necklace—an apt choice given pearl’s association with purity and serenity in Mughal times. Alamzeb’s pearl necklace breaks in this scene, perhaps a reference to her loss of innocence as the drama progresses.
Iconic styles seen in Indian weddings to this day
While Heeramandi is set in the past, the appeal of Mughal jewellery transcends time. Its influence can be seen in modern Indian jewellery especially in wedding jewellery worn by both brides and grooms.
Indeed, many Indian grooms, on their wedding day, wear turban ornaments or sarpech. Meanwhile, many brides wear stacking jewellery, which is a tradition that goes back to Mughal times. Necklaces and chokers, known as hasli or guluband often featuring large gemstones in gold settings, are worn closer to the neck, while longer necklaces, sometimes called raani haar, can extend to the navel. Bangles and bracelets, crafted in pure, 22- or 24-karat gold and studded with gems, can be worn in multiples.
One of our favourites is karn phool: large and ornate, these earrings often extend to cover the entire ear. Lastly, nose rings or naths are a significant part of bridal jewellery from the Mughal times, often elaborately designed with chains linking them to the hair or earrings.
Practical uses of jewellery
Jewellery was not just worn for adornment but for practical purposes too. For example, the aigrette or jigha, positioned on the front of the turban, was used to hold feathers or jewels that were part of the royal turban’s adornment. The practical utility did not detract from its craftsmanship, which involved intricate settings of gemstones and delicate metalwork.
Another such functional piece of jewellery was the arm band or bazuband. Worn on the upper arm, these bands were believed to offer protection to the wearer in battles. These bazuband were often richly adorned with inscriptions, gemstones and detailed enamel work. Some of them would be adorned with rubies, a gemstone that was considered to protect its wearer.
Even utilitarian objects such as dagger handles were crafted with precious metals and stones, turning them into luxury items. These daggers were part of the court attire, worn in public and court assemblies to signify nobility and combat readiness.
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