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How the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II became an icon

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 07月03日03:29 • 發布於 07月02日03:51 • Brian Cheong

If ever there were a superhero watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II may just qualify. It has scaled mountains, crossed oceans, gone to space, and even survived rocket speed. An emblematic timepiece of the iconic Swiss manufacture, it was designed to be an essential navigating instrument for adventures across time zones and fulfilling wanderlust.

Created in 1955, among its enduring features is a hand with a triangle tip that circles along the two-toned, bidirectional rotatable bezel with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert to indicate a second time zone, handy for simultaneously telling the local and home time. The bezel is divided into two different colours to identify day and night—which at the model’s launch, was blue for night and red for day.

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The Rolex GMT-Master from 1955
The Rolex GMT-Master from 1955

The Rolex GMT-Master from 1955

In 1959, the GMT-Master became the official watch for Pan American World Airways (Pan Am), accompanying its pilots on their flights. In 1967, lieutenant and aeronautical engineer William J. Knight broke the speed record in the X-15 rocket plane (7,274km/h) over the Mojave Desert in California with the GMT-Master on his wrist.

The GMT-Master was also a canvas to showcase innovations, particularly the introduction of high-tech ceramic bezel inserts in 2005, the first watch in the Rolex portfolio to have this highly durable scratchproof material.

Its functionality appealed to aviators and explorers, while its robust aesthetics captured the hearts of screen legends and top athletes. For almost 70 years, it has been an essential timepiece for those who need something smart and reliable when they travel. That legacy lives on today.

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William J. Knight
William J. Knight

William J. Knight

The new Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is presented with a black and grey Cerachrom bezel insert, a material valued for its noncorrosive, virtually scratch-proof quality. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition), making the indications easy to read. The black lacquer dial bears the inscription ‘GMT-Master II’ in green, echoing the colour of the triangle-tipped 24-hour hand—an element that features strongly in the model’s design.

The 40mm Oyster case is, water-resistant up to 100m, houses calibre 3285 certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It is equipped with the patented Chronergy escapement in nickel-phosphorus, which is resistant to magnetic fields. The blue Parachrom hairspring grants even greater stability thanks to its immunity to temperature variations and shocks. Shock resistance is further enhanced with the Perpetual rotor mounted on patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers; since 2023, the oscillating weight has been fitted with an optimised ball bearing.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with Jubilee bracelet
Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with Jubilee bracelet

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with Jubilee bracelet

The watch comes in a choice of Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.

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