In 18th and 19th century Europe, regulators had a distinct role: standardising time across expanding work spaces. This led to the adoption of clocks with regulator-type displays, where hours, minutes and seconds were shown in separate sections on the dial. Everyone, particularly in factories and transportation, could now read the time, even from a distance, synchronise their work easily, and manage their schedules effectively.
While these early regulators were valued for their accuracy, this feature has largely faded from modern interpretations. Today, a “regulator” typically refers to a watch with time displayed in three distinct areas.
Read more: Reviving iconic watch designs from the past
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator Reference 5235 with a central minute hand, an hour counter at 12 o’clock, and the seconds counter at 6 o’clock
Historically, regulators were designed in a no-nonsense, utilitarian way. That all changed in 2011 when Patek Philippe introduced the Annual Calendar Regulator Reference 5235, with its satin-brushed dial. This was followed by Chopard’s L.U.C Quattro Regulator, which embraced modern aesthetics with updated fonts.
In 2019, Louis Erard breathed new life into the regulator concept with its collaboration series. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard was particularly influential, leading to nearly 10 subsequent models that revitalised both the brand and the regulator principle.
The 2024 edition of the series showcased this evolution with three standouts: the graphic Atelier Oï model, the dark and conceptual Atelier Oï iteration created with Olivier Mosset, and Cédric Johner’s rule-breaking design—all reflecting a bold departure from tradition.
La Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner updates the regulator timepiece with a bold, resolutely modern design
Ferdinand Berthoud also made a mark with its limited Chronomètre FB 2 in a regulator format, reminiscent of Berthoud marine chronometers. Chronoswiss introduced a fresh perspective with its Strike Two, featuring a horizontal axis for its three indications and revealing part of the mechanism to add depth and dynamism.
Raúl Pagès further demonstrated the regulator’s renewed relevance when he clinched the inaugural Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives earlier this year. But perhaps, it is the once-static regulator’s dramatic transformation in the hands of Jacob & Co. that best exemplifies its embrace of the 21st century.
Read more: Louis Vuitton continues its watchmaking revolution with the reimagined Escale collection
Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Hour positions the time indicators on a horizontal axis
The Astronomia Regulator redefines the genre with moving sub-dials on a rotating carousel and seconds displayed on a ring encircling the nearly transparent case. The watch’s standout feature is its vertical and rotational movement, with all satellites completing a full rotation around the case every minute. The seconds ring follows suit, gliding past a pointer at 6 o’clock.
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