Timeless, elegant, classic, intricate: these four words have defined Buccellati for more than a century. Founded in Italy in 1919, the jewellery maison’s story is one of unwavering dedication to craftsmanship. Through ancient goldsmithing techniques passed down through generations, the house has created a distinctive aesthetic language that speaks of timeless artistry.
Along the way, there have been many significant milestones: from Pope Pius XII commissioning Mario Buccellati to craft a special medal for Princess Margaret in the 1940s to contemporary cultural icons like K-pop star G-Dragon wearing the signature Blossom ring. This wide appeal across eras and cultures has cemented Buccellati’s position as one of the world’s most coveted jewellery brands.
At the heart of Buccellati’s enduring mystique lies its steadfast commitment to discretion and exclusivity. The brand’s third-generation heir Andrea Buccellati sat down with Tatler to explain this approach. “Our intricate production process simply doesn’t allow us to serve millions of customers—nor is that our intention. We focus on those who truly appreciate Buccellati’s distinctive style, and this requires us to remain faithful to our heritage.”
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Andrea Buccellati (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Buccellati remains loyal not only to its heritage but also to traditional goldsmithing techniques. In the wake of World War I, Mario Buccellati, a talented goldsmith apprentice (and Andrea’s grandfather) established his first boutique in Milan’s prestigious Via Santa Margherita 5. His revolutionary technique of transforming gold into lace-like textures soon captured the imagination of connoisseurs. This mastery lives on through the house’s signature engraving techniques—tulle, rigato and segrinato—which remain the cornerstone of Buccellati’s identity.
It’s one of Buccellati’s core missions to preserve this craftsmanship, and as part of that the house has launched the Master in Goldsmith Arts programme, in partnership with Milan’s prestigious Scuola Orafa Ambrosiana. “We invest heavily in the next generation through the master’s course. Upon completing the training, these students [can] join our ateliers,” he says. It’s an intensive curriculum covering goldsmithing, embossing and chiselling, engraving and microscope encasing techniques.
Butterfly brooch by Buccellati (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Butterfly brooch by Buccellati (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
“Of course, it takes time to master. Preserving our traditions through educating new craftsmen remains one of our greatest challenges, especially given the high market demand,” he adds. Yet the house’s response remains unwavering: rather than yielding to the temptations of mechanical production, they choose to preserve tradition.
As a result, each Buccellati piece is a masterclass in craftsmanship—intricate patterns gradually revealing themselves, forming an aesthetic universe that transcends time and trends.
The house has recently captured significant attention in Asia, particularly after K-pop icon G-Dragon shared images of him wearing a sterling silver ring from Buccellati's Blossoms collection. The brand has also cultivated this growing presence in Asia by opening several boutiques across the region. In fact, when we talked to Andrea, he had flown into Hong Kong to visit the brand’s Central Prince’s Building shop, as part of a showcase of 53 creations from Buccellati’s high jewellery collection. The highlight of this showcase was the Asia-Pacific debut of an exquisite butterfly brooch, a collaborative creation between Andrea and his daughter, Lucrezia Buccellati.
Coloured cocktail rings in white and yellow gold ring (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Ombelicali necklace (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Ombelicali necklace (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Buccellati high jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Buccellati high jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Buccellati high jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Buccellati high jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Buccellati high jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Silverware by Buccellati (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
The butterfly remains an enduring source of inspiration for Buccellati, with each generation of master artisans interpreting it in their own ways. The latest creation demonstrates the house’s signature openwork and tulle techniques. Rendered in 18K white gold and illuminated by brilliant diamonds, the piece captures a butterfly’s ethereal grace through its delicate, lace-like structure.
As Buccellati’s clientele grows increasingly diverse and youthful, the house balances its commitment to tradition with subtle innovation through its fourth-generation designer, Lucrezia Buccellati—the first woman to lead the family’s creative legacy.
“She offers a fresh perspective on how to wear jewellery,” says Andrea. “When I design, I always envision the most spectacular pieces, but they can be challenging to wear. Her approach is quite different: ‘Why not create jewellery I can wear while walking with my children to the supermarket?’”
Andrea and Lucrezia Buccellati (Photo: Instagram @lucreziabuccellati）
Lucrezia Buccellati (Photo: Instagram @lucreziabuccellati）
Lucrezia’s journey with the house officially began in 2013 with the Romanza collection, marking her apprenticeship under her father’s guidance. The Opera collection, launched in 2015, particularly resonated with Asian collectors, and has since become another signature line for the house. Lucrezia herself embodies the modern spirit of Buccellati by making the intricate pieces approachable and contemporary.
More than a century after it was launched, Buccellati continues to strike the perfect balance between contemporary and traditional—and what could be more timeless than that?
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