What makes a great pastry chef?

From intricate, stunning sugar manipulations, to luscious chocolate creations and beautifully made bread, the world of pastry is layered and multifaceted. Not only are pastry chefs masters of all things sweet but have their specialisation backed by science too. From dense and flakey bread, to light, delicate pastry, Viennoiseries, tarts, delicate financiers, macarons, to candy, cookies, cakes, and ice cream, a pastry chef’s work is highly technical to say the least.

Well beyond the realm of a baker, top pastry chefs embrace, obsess, and master the craft of exceptional dessert. Armed with an in-depth knowledge of the baking world, they dive even deeper into the delicacy of their craft to understand the finicky and meticulous know-how behind all things sugar, chocolate and more. Their stunning proficiency in a wide range of highly technical techniques is impressive, with tools like tempering chocolate, constructing delicate or large-scale cakes, or intricate sugar sculpting under their belts.

Behind the hefty base knowledge of the construction and cookery needed to excel, these chefs also grasp the ability to play with a whole slew of flavours that pair well with dessert taste profiles. From fruit, chocolate, sweet, sour, to now even experimenting with savoury components that have made their way into dessert menus, pastry chefs are at no shortage of options.

We talk to five top-notch pastry chefs from around Asia to get a better understanding of what it takes to be one of the best in the industry, and to learn from their life experiences too.

Loi Ming Ai, Voila Patisserie

Chef Loi Ming Ai began his pastry journey at the age of 20, with his first job at a traditional cake shop. Ai pivoted from wanting to focus on interior design once he found his passion for pastry. “Over time, my dream became wanting to participate in the World Pastry Cup. After six years of hard work and persistence, I was finally able to stand on the podium of the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie 2019 alongside my teammates Tan Wei Loon, Otto Tay and our coach Patrick Siau,” he recounts.

Today chef Ai leads Voila Patisserie with Otto Tay in Malaysia, a concept that was born out of their desire to create beautiful and delicious treats for their family, friends and the Malaysian market instead of directing their talents towards only global competitions.

How has Voila helped to elevate Malaysian contemporary pastry?

The pastry culture in Malaysia has never been really strong all this time, hence French pastries are not very welcomed with Malaysians. They are accustomed to desserts made with synthetic creams, compound chocolates, margarine and others, all of which are not healthy ingredients used in pastry-making. With our advanced knowledge and techniques, we are able to adjust our products to flavours and textures that are more suitable for Malaysians, while at the same time educating them on eating pastries made with healthy ingredients through classes and events as well.

What is your process for developing new dessert ideas?

We meet with many different chefs around the world on our travels and we always look forward to trying their traditional pastries and sweets, in order to help us understand their culture. I create pastries with meaning and purpose behind them, I get inspiration for flavour combinations through many of these fruitful exchanges.

Fleur de Myrtille which consists of cocoa sable, blueberry biscuit, blueberry cheese diplomat and strawberry confit (Photo: courtesy of Voila Patisserie)

⁠⁠Why do you think it is so important to give desserts just as much importance and love as with savoury courses?

A full course meal is like a movie to me. You begin with introductions (entrées), move on to main courses (storyline and climax) and finally the happy ending (a sweet dessert). Having both savoury and sweet dishes that complement each other is simply the perfect symphony in life.

Do you think desserts with savoury elements is a trend that will last? Can you describe a time when you created a dessert specifically inspired by a savoury dish?

In my opinion, I think that savoury desserts will be a continuous ongoing trend. I have created a few combinations before such as peach with shiso leaves, apple with celery etc. I’m also excited to explore deeper and create more combinations with savoury ingredients in the near future.

How do you adapt your desserts to cater to different dietary requirements without compromising on taste or presentation?

As there is an increase of allergy cases, we have created a datasheet to calculate the percentage of fat, dry solids and others to help us readjust the recipe better. For example, we may replace the dairy asset with soy milk or other non-dairy/plant-based options as they have the same fat content as our usual dairy products. If the fat content in the replacement isn’t as sufficient, we will use other fat content like coconut oil or cocoa butter to fill in the gaps. By doing so, the final texture will not be as affected and our consumers will still be able to enjoy the desserts just as much. Keeping an accurate and detailed ingredient datasheet is crucial should one need to substitute a component in the product.

Goyave Rose which is a choux base filled with vanilla frangipane, vanilla mousseline, pink guava confit and jasmine chatilly (Photo: courtesy of Voila Patisserie)

Tarte au Citron which has a lemon crust and almond cream base layered with lemon marmalade, lemon curd and lime meringue (Photo: courtesy of Voila Patisserie)

What in your opinion makes for a great dessert?

Always create a dessert with a background. This elevates my desserts as it is not just a piece of cake, but a direct link between the chef and the consumer. Customers will appreciate the dessert more when we share the reason and story behind it.

What made you want to create a dessert-only concept? What are the challenges?

Personally, I think that pastry arts have always been more attractive to me in various ways. My love to create new designs has definitely played a huge role in this, hence why I originally wanted to study interior design in the beginning. When I first had a taste of pastry-making, I instantly fell in love with it. I’ve got to design the flavours, textures, appearances and other aspects of a dessert to make it uniquely mine. Culinary arts are of a similar concept; however, we are able to also use chocolate or sugar to design sculptures and showpieces in pastry arts.

Cheryl Koh, Tarte

Chef Cheryl Koh (Asia's Best Pastry Chef 2016 by The World's 50 Best Restaurants) was raised in Singapore before she moved overseas for around 10 years. She originally studied geography and European studies before she found her calling as a pastry chef and joined the Les Amis group in Hong Kong at Cepage. Koh found her way back to Singapore in 2013, as pastry chef of the 2-Michelin-starred Les Amis restaurant, and in 2016 opened Tarte by Cheryl Koh where she specialises in artisanal tarts. At Tarte this expert focuses on seasonality highlighting fresh fruits and unique flavours through her freshly baked and assembled tarts.

How do you approach creating desserts that align with Les Amis’s concept?

I start with the ingredients that are in season, and work on how to best bring out the flavours and textures in the desserts. At Les Amis, I work with the head chef on ideas and ensure the desserts are in line with the concept, season and direction of the restaurant.

Why do you think it is so important to give desserts just as much importance and love as with savoury courses?

I feel that it is the happiest part of the meal. It is as important as the last course of a meal, giving guests the last impression of the entire experience, and ending on a high. Leaving with a good feeling is important.

Why did you want to create the Tarte brand? Tell us about your love for tarts, why did you want to focus on tarts specifically?

The idea of the pastry shop came about when there was a small stairwell space within the building next to the Les Amis restaurant, and the opportunity to open a takeout pastry counter in that space.

Strawberry and jackfruit tarts (Photo: Instagram/@tartebycherylkoh)

What made you want to develop a dessert-only concept like Tarte? Is the menu creation process for something more niche like this different for you?

We were already serving tarts for special occasions at Les Amis, and when the space came up and the idea of opening a pastry shop, it was something that seemed like a natural progression.

How do you adapt your desserts to cater to different dietary requirements without compromising on taste or presentation?

I choose to use the most natural ingredient that fits the dietary requirement, or offer a dessert that does not have the allergen, instead of using substitutions.

Yamanashi Shine Muscat tart with grape konnyaku jelly, and mascarpone cream in their signature tart shell (Photo: Instagram/@tartebycherylkoh)

What role does plating and presentation play in your dessert creation? Can you talk about the role of artistry with pastry?

Plating and presentation are very important. We first eat with our eyes, and the way the dessert is plated also determines how the flavours and textures are experienced with each bite.

How do you stay innovative while maintaining consistency in your dessert offerings?

I continue to source for the best quality ingredients, and work with high-quality products. I feel it is important to eat well, instead of excluding desserts from a diet. We can eat less high-processed food, and more natural good quality ingredients.

Viyern Ooi, Ignis

Chef Viyern Ooi, Ignis

Chef Viyern Ooi started her culinary journey in the hot kitchen before she dabbled in pastry. This chef studied in Switzerland, then worked in Turkey, New York and Singapore before making her way to Malaysia. Viyern was part of the opening team at Malaysia’s Ignis and then went on to champion their dessert menu, taking it to where it is today. In fact, this talent was named Tatler Dining Malaysia’s Best Pastry Chef 2024.

How do you approach creating desserts that align with the restaurant's overall culinary concept and style?

I try to gather inspiration from what the hot side of the kitchen is doing, for instance if the current menu is more local then that's the direction I'll head in, or if it's more European inspired I'll try to match that instead. We decided from the beginning that Ignis would be grill-focused so most of my desserts have a touch of the grill or fire in them.

What is your process for developing new dessert ideas that complement the main courses?

I read a lot, so sometimes I grab an idea from a dish I might have seen before somewhere and I go from there. Otherwise, I just try to use something that's in season or I just go to the dry store and try to find something interesting that I haven't tried yet!

S'mores, Ooi’s best known dessert at Ignis (Photo: courtesy of Ignis)

Do you think desserts with savoury elements is a trend that will last?

Definitely. It's more appealing to people who do not have a sweet tooth and it's also more interesting to have a savoury element in an otherwise traditionally sweet dish.

What role does plating and presentation play in your dessert creations, and how do you ensure they match the restaurant's aesthetic? Can you share why you think artistry plays such a strong role in desserts?

Plating and presentation plays quite a big role in my desserts, for example Ignis has a very rustic, metal and wood vibe so I can make more rustic looking desserts. It usually takes a few tries to get the look just right so I might have to try to plate the dessert a few different ways. I think artistry is important because without it, there would not be so many variations of desserts. There are many chefs who plate their desserts in such a way that you can recognise their work just by the style of the plating alone.

(Photo: courtesy of Ignis)

Bruleed figs with sticky toffee cake and burnt honey cream, miso panna cotta, and banana bread with toasted rice ice cream (Photo: courtesy of Ignis)

How do you stay innovative while maintaining consistency in your dessert offerings?

I do read a lot, and I try to taste as many different desserts as I can. I also learn a lot from my friends who are in the industry because they all have brilliant ideas.

How has customer feedback influenced your dessert menu?

I do try to find the balance between doing what I want to do and making what people want to eat so I use the feedback to see if what I want to do is what people want to eat.

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Makoto Arami, Ami Patisserie

Chef Makoto Arami hails from Hikone, a city in Shiga Prefecture, Japan. He pursued his passion for culinary arts at Tsuji Culinary Institute in Tokyo and at just 20 years old, he dove into a professional career in pastry. This talented chef worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in Tokyo, and trained at Dominique Ansel Bakery in New York before joining the opening team in Tokyo. He then moved to Kyoto to continue his journey in the world of pastry chef and fell in love with the omotenashi style of hospitality as well as kaiseki and kappo dining where guests can interact with the chefs at the counter. At the age of 28 years old he moved to Singapore and spent four years of working at Michelin-starred Beni and Marina Bay Sands. Finally, in 2021 Arami founded Ami Patisserie.

This unique shop brings Singapore two distinct concepts. The Patisserie Café is a place ideal for any location, from something casual like brunch afternoon tea or even a simple celebration. Here diners à la carte sweets, savouries and Viennoiseries, that are all finished à la minute. For gastronomes wanting a fine dining experience, try the Chef’s Table Discovery Experience. Here you will indulge in a tasting menu experience with sweets and savouries at the intimate 8-seat Tsudoi dining room.

Table setting at Ami Patisserie (Photo: courtesy of Ami Patisserie)

Inside Ami which is located on Scotts Road (Photo: courtesy of Ami Patisserie)

What is your approach for creating desserts? Could you tell me if you have a particular style or signature?

I present European-style pastries in intricate creations that celebrate the distinct, natural flavours of Japanese produce. I give my best to my diners. Every creation at AMI Patisserie is made from the heart and finished à la minute to be presented at its highest quality. I believe pastries should be enjoyed at any time of the day, not just to end a meal, but in a full experience from start till end, like the Japanese concept of Tsudo – “anytime, all the time, and whenever”.

Why do you think it is so important to give desserts just as much importance and love as with savoury courses?

With both the Patisserie Café and Chef’s Table Discovery experiences, I look to inspire a shift in perception – to see pastries in a new light for their main starring role alongside savoury courses.

Do you think desserts with savoury elements is a trend that will last?

Yes, savoury desserts are becoming a staple especially those that incorporate classic flavours. For example, one of my savoury dishes in the Chef’s Table Experience is the Shizuoka Tomato Tartelette which showcases my appreciation for vegetables and spotlights one of my favourite vegetables – tomatoes. The dish is a familiar combination of Italian flavours with the 24-month aged Parmesan cheese tartelette topped with Fromage Blanc cream, Japanese Amela tomatoes, micro basil, and a drizzle of basil oil.

Kuri (Chestnut) Mont Blanc (Photo: courtesy of Ami Patisserie)

Rhum Baba (Photo: courtesy of Ami Patisserie)

What are key differences with the a la carte and tasting menu offerings? Do you have a different approach to creating desserts for the chef's table experience so it better suits the menu progression?

At the Patisserie Café we serve à la carte dishes with signatures like choux and fruit tarts, as well as other items like breads, parfaits, Viennoiserie and savoury creations.

The Chef’s Table Discovery Experience is a unique pastry-led six-course lunch and dinner tasting menu that showcases the season’s best, so ingredients will vary. This includes vegetables and Japanese fruits of the season brought in directly from Japan. I take on a more holistic approach when curating the Chef’s Table Discovery menu for it to unfold as a full experience. Inspired by my time working at fine dining restaurants, every dish should lead into the next sequentially so there is a progression of flavours and textures.

How do you create a menu so that savoury and sweets fit seamlessly into the dining experience?

I take into consideration the varying flavours and textures of the pastries I’ll be showcasing. Firstly, the menu starts with bread and canapes with sweet and familiar flavours usually associated with pastries, before transitioning to the savoury courses, then finally, ending the meal with more dessert-like creations including an ‘oyatsu’, our take on the final presentation of petit fours.

Nasu Brulee, a roasted eggplant custard dish that is served as part of the Chef's Table Discovery Experience menu. (Photo: courtesy of Ami Patisserie)

Ami's Marble Dark Chocolate (Photo: courtesy of Ami Patisserie)

What role does plating and presentation play in your dessert creations, and how do you ensure they match the restaurant's aesthetic?

In embracing my Japanese roots, I wanted to create a distinctive, elegant Kyoto-style setting that’s close to home hence, the physical space features a contemporary design with neutral hues and natural materials, drawing inspiration from a 'Kyo Machiya' which refers to Kyoto-style traditional wooden townhouses that served both as residences and places of business for merchants and craftsmen.

With this, all the plates, bowls and coasters used in the Chef’s Table Discovery experience are Shigaraki yaki (Shigaraki tableware) handmade by a good friend of mine, Kasho Morioka, from my hometown of Hikone, Shiga Prefecture, which is known for its unique terrain to produce this distinctive style of pottery.

For example, we presented the Piedmont hazelnut financier in what looks like a wooden box, but is actually a glazed ceramic vessel with a ‘grain’ pattern. The rich purple-coloured bowl that we serve the Nasu brulée in reflects the dish – an eggplant crème brulee style dish. At times, he crafts the piece first and I’ll gain inspiration from there, like the marble dark chocolate dessert that’s a take on the tiramisu with hues of black and brown inspired by the marbled swirls on the ceramic ware.

How do you stay innovative while maintaining consistency in your dessert offerings?

Consistency in quality and innovation are key. One of my signatures are my seasonal fruit tarts made with a filo pastry base recipe that I developed. To ensure that every tart stays crisp even in Singapore’s humid climate, I replace the usual tart base with layers of filo pastry, each brushed with honey and butter. Sugar levels are also tweaked according to the natural sweetness of every seasonal fruit. And for my choux pastries, I use Hokkaido flour with higher gluten content to enhance their structure, so that they can better hold the filling and topping.

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Chef Chong Ko Wai, Texture by C3 Lab

Fromage au chocolat made with premium dark chocolate cheese (Photo: Instagram/@c3lab_my)

Chef Chong Ko Wai, aka "Breadpitt” on Instagram, is the co-founder of Texture by C3 Lab in Malaysia where they craft stunning sweet treats and work on consultancy projects too. As a master of French pastry and sugar work he has been called an ‘architect of cakes'. Wai is proud that his creations require extreme attention in all aspects of flavour, design, and construction. During his career he has earned 4th place at Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in 2015 and was the first ever Malaysian to grace the podium of the Mondial Des Art Sucre too.

How has C3 helped to elevate the Malaysian pastry scene?

By introducing more contemporary and quality pastries that were once deemed not feasible for commercial production to the public. My co-founder Lawrence and I frequently travel overseas to teach classes and stay updated to the latest pastry trends and technologies worldwide. We want to prove that using quality ingredients, sophisticated pastry techniques, and “complicated” recipes that we see from overseas are not entirely impossible to replicate on a commercial scale. Consumers truly deserve better.

⁠⁠What is your process for developing new dessert ideas?

I travel and try pastries around the world to get inspiration on new flavour combinations. Learning and understanding different aesthetics from other industries such as fashion to incorporate into my work.

Galactic Elegance: Sésame Noir, a dessert with cherry and black sesame (Photo: Instagram/@c3lab_my)

Do you think desserts with savoury elements is a trend that will last? Can you describe a time when you created a dessert specifically inspired by a savoury dish?

Personally, I seldom make such attempts, but I believe it will works well. I previously made savoury macarons like white chocolate wasabi macaron and cream cheese chive macaron; the saltiness and acidity from cheese are well balanced with the sweetness from the macaron shell, making the sweet savoury combination a pleasant treat. The wasabi gives a slight umami and sweetness, while the presence of white chocolate tones down the heat from wasabi.

⁠⁠How do you adapt your desserts to cater to different dietary requirements without compromising on taste or presentation?

By constantly innovating upon existing recipes with alternative ingredients; for example, replacing eggs with citrus fibre to make lemon curd to create a vegan-friendly option. We spend a lot of time on R&D to study the composition or scientific makeup of ingredients, which helps us adapt and manipulate recipes without sacrificing the texture or taste.

Snowskin mooncakes (Photo: Instagram/@c3lab_my)

⁠Can you share an example of how customer feedback has influenced your dessert menu development?

In Asia, the ultimate compliment for a dessert is “not too sweet”, so we try to adjust the sweetness of our desserts to a more acceptable range for majority of our customers. We also try to localise our offerings by incorporating ingredients like pandan and matcha to suit the Asian palate. It’s a great way to add our own twist on traditional French pastry while introducing the Asian audience to a new style of dessert.

What in your opinion makes for a great dessert?

In my opinion, a great dessert is one that you can finish in one sitting without it feeling too cloying or overbearing.

⁠⁠What made you want to create a dessert-only concept? What are the challenges?

My major is pastry hence I only focus on what I’m good at. A key challenge would be trying to find the balance between creating pastries that represent my creative philosophy as a chef while meeting the consumer’s wants and needs. Ultimately, C3 Lab is a business and we need to adapt to what the market wants. We do receive a lot praise or approval from fellow pastry chefs worldwide, but sometimes we get caught in the cycle of creating things that would impress chefs within the industry, but not necessarily something that consumers would understand.

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Tatler Hong Kong

Loi Ming Ai, Voila Patisserie

Cheryl Koh, Tarte

Viyern Ooi, Ignis

Makoto Arami, Ami Patisserie

Chef Chong Ko Wai, Texture by C3 Lab

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