Edouard Meylan, CEO of H Moser & Cie, has been a pivotal figure in the resurgence of this storied Swiss watchmaker since the Meylan family acquired the brand in 2012. Under his leadership, the brand has transformed from a struggling entity into a beacon of innovation and craftsmanship in the luxury watch industry. Known for its audacious designs, the brand has successfully carved out a unique niche using traditional watchmaking techniques with modern aesthetics.
On his visit to Hong Kong, Meylan discusses the creative process behind the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater, a timepiece that highlights Moser’s commitment to redefining horological excellence. Tatler explore his thoughts on innovation, craftsmanship and the evolving landscape of luxury watchmaking.
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Caseback of the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater (Photo: courtesy of H Moser & Cie)
The Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater is such a beautiful watch and showcases a contemporary design while also paying tribute to Moser’s signature style. How difficult is it to balance these two elements?Thank you! We like to say that Moser is a bridge between traditional and modern watchmaking. In every product, we reinterpret this. For the minute repeater, we took inspiration from old pocket minute repeaters with the movement at the back and an enamel dial. Here, we decided to create an enamel dial with a modern steel integrated bracelet, almost sporty, with water resistance of 5 ATM [50 metres], which is unique for a minute repeater. The enamel itself is also very modern. It’s about understanding what it means to be traditional and modern, and then mixing these elements to create something that makes sense. Since the codes of Moser are very clear, it becomes easier to keep that in mind during new developments.
You make it sound easy, but I imagine it’s quite complex.It can be challenging at the beginning to define those codes. Once you have defined them and stick to them, it’s tempting to explore other avenues. However, it has to be Moser. Occasionally, we try something a bit offbeat to evolve our image, but [we never move in] a straight line.
Each point you mentioned is crucial in reinterpreting Moser’s DNA. What are the technical challenges, particularly the unique positioning of the minute repeater’s gongs?We tried to be aesthetically different. We have the advantage of using computer-aided design and 3D printing. Initially, I tried placing the gongs at 12 o’clock because I like symmetry, but it didn’t work; it felt too symmetrical. We explored different interpretations and angles until we found the right balance. However, it’s subjective; not everyone will see it the same way. Starting early in the project allows us to construct and 3D print before moving to prototyping. Once you’ve started real prototyping, it’s too late to change significantly, which can be costly.
How difficult is it to put a minute repeater in a water-resistant case? How did you optimise the sound quality?We carve as much as possible to enhance resonance. The way we create and build the case connects to the gongs, and material choice is crucial. We chose steel because it’s a compromise; titanium would be stronger but not as melodious. Gold is very melodious but too soft. Given the water resistance, we felt steel was the best option. We experimented with various materials and found that steel provides a warm, melodious sound while being robust.
The Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater (Photo: courtesy of H Moser & Cie)
What was the thought process behind including a tourbillon in this model?The tourbillon was integral to the movement’s design. I wanted the watch to feel alive, and combining it with the minute repeater adds complexity. We can’t produce numerous variations, so we focused on creating our ideal minute repeater, enhancing its appeal with the tourbillon. It’s about balance; if we had used a standard escapement, it would have felt disproportionate.
The hammered texture of the enamel is lovely. What challenges did you face creating it?Enamelling is complicated and carries a significant risk of breakage, especially with a small surface area. We mix four different pigments on a small surface, which requires meticulous attention. It takes considerable time to layer the pigments, as we apply 17 layers and bake it each time, risking breakage. The process is intricate and time-consuming.
Who do you envision as the ideal owner of this watch?For many, it’s a grail to own a minute repeater. Traditional minute repeaters are often very classic but this model appeals to Moser collectors who may already own a few tourbillons or iconic pieces. Some collectors have expressed a desire for a minute repeater but found existing designs boring. This watch speaks to them; it’s comfortable and practical enough for daily wear, even during sports or in the shower.
Which aspects of this new creation resonate with you the most?I believe every watch we create is an art piece, combining many elements that make Moser special. The movement showcases traditional finishing techniques, while the enamel work is both traditional and modern. Notably, there’s no logo on the watch, allowing it to speak for itself. Each piece is unique; we produce only about 12 to 15 a year, and I personally check them for sound quality and aesthetics.
The Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater (Photo: courtesy of H Moser & Cie)
Can you recall your first significant experience with a watch, and how did it impact your perspective on watchmaking?The first watch I received from my parents was a mechanical watch. I was pretty disappointed because all my friends had a Casio. I received a Lemania in steel. I was not even yet in primary school, and I wish I still had it today. The other very important one was the Royal Oak tantalum steel. It was a quartz watch for my 18th birthday because my father was working for AP [Audemars Piguet]. That was a watch that made me appreciate traditional watchmaking, materials and design in general.
Is there a particular watch you dream of recreating with a Moser aesthetic?I would love to create a Streamliner in tantalum steel. It doesn’t need to be complex; the beauty lies in the material itself.
Who has inspired you in the watchmaking industry?My father has been a significant influence; he’s a legend in this industry and has always been outspoken. He grew up in the Vallée de Joux [in western Switzerland], and there aren’t many top managers from that background today. His commitment to supporting local activities was crucial. Jean-Claude Biver is another inspiration; his provocative and opportunistic approach has taught me to see opportunities everywhere. Richard Mille is a good friend who inspires me with his success and dynamic approach. Max Büsser, one of the first independents, also inspires creativity and uniqueness.
Being part of a family deeply rooted in watchmaking, are there any particular watches or family traditions that hold special meaning for you?We talk a lot about watches if we meet for Christmas. I remember, during our first Christmas dinner together, my wife came up to me, asking, “Do you talk about anything else other than watches in this family?” I work with my brother, and my father is the [company] chairman. We grew up in this industry, so obviously, we talk about other brands, what’s happening etc.
There’s a bit of a reflex we have: when we meet people, we look at their watches in a way that gives us insight into who they are. We often say that we can know a lot about someone just by seeing what watch they wear. It’s a unique bond we share as a family, and it certainly adds a special dimension to our gatherings
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