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Silvia Damiani on leading Damiani jewellery into its next century

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 2024年07月08日05:44 • 發布於 2024年07月08日05:42 • Amrita Katara

100 years is not just a milestone—it’s a treasure trove of memories, achievements, and lessons learned. This is true for Damiani, as the Italian jeweller celebrates a century of traditional craftsmanship and artistic innovation. In a heartfelt discussion, Silvia Damiani, the vice president of the maison, discusses the Damiani family’s journey and guiding principles that have shaped their business over the years.

“First of all, it’s a great emotion for my family. It’s a time when you really evaluate what has been done, and also plan for the future because we want this family dream to continue for the next generation. It’s a mixture of beautiful emotions, I get a little sentimental,” she says, reflecting on the centennial.

Growing up in the immersive world of high jewellery, her childhood experiences in her parents’ workshop influenced her perception of luxury and beauty, elements that define every piece of Damiani jewellery. “I really believe in what [Russian novelist] Dostoyevsky said is true: ‘Beauty can save the world’. I think what my parents taught me was balance and combining two important ingredients— beauty and luxury—together in an elegant and discreet way.”

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(Photo: courtesy of Damiani)

(Photo: courtesy of Damiani)

Authenticity, according to Silvia, stands as the cornerstone of Damiani’s longevity. “First of all, you have to understand who you are. Damiani is a family company and all of its values are connected with family. We are on duty 24 hours a day— you have to embrace it and feel it as it’s really part of you," she says. The deeply ingrained family values and the seamless blend of personal and professional life have helped maintain the brand’s integrity and appeal.

Facing the sudden loss of her father in a car accident in 1996, Silvia and her siblings were thrust into leadership roles, underscoring resilience and dedication as key factors in overcoming challenges and continuing the family legacy. “It was very sudden, and nobody expected it, we were not even thirty years old,” she said. Despite this setback, “my brothers and I, with our team, were able to make Damiani more international, as an achievement.” Over the years, Damiani has won many prizes but according to Silvia, the most important recognition for the brand has been to “believe more in ourselves and to continue [carrying their ancestors’ legacy forward through] creativity, using it as the base of creating beautiful jewellery.”

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The strategic expansion of Damiani, marked by the opening of new boutiques in carefully selected global markets like Hong Kong and, most recently, Taipei. “I always feel very happy every time I open a new store. I think every store that opens up around the world is a milestone because a store speaks about our lifestyle. It’s the best way to talk to our buyers,” she says.

Bespoke services remain a hallmark of Damiani, ensuring that each personalised creation reflects the client’s vision while embodying the brand’s signature elegance and craftsmanship. “I think the people who decide to create custom pieces already understand who we are. Everybody has their own [style]. The important thing is that they are happy with it,” she says.

When discussing standout moments in Damiani's illustrious 100-year history, Silvia highlights the creation of the Blue Moon earrings, which earned her a Diamond International Award in 1996. This accolade was not just a professional triumph, but a deeply personal milestone. Silvia began designing these earrings at the age of 19, marking her early foray into the world of high jewellery design. “But my father thought it was not the appropriate time to enter the contest, because I was not ready then,” she says. The eventual recognition of her work symbolised her coming of age as a jeweller, intertwining personal growth with professional acclaim. “There is also a right time for everything. I won in January 1996, and my father died in February 1996. It made me feel like ‘Okay, maybe I can do it. I just won a prize.’ It was a kind of encouragement for me.”

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(Photo: courtesy of Damiani)

(Photo: courtesy of Damiani)

The earrings are designed to evoke the image of a woman's profile gazing at the moon. “There’s chaos with different sizes of diamonds,” she says. This design not only showcases the technical skill and artistic vision that Damiani is renowned for, but also represents a poetic narrative of patience, perseverance, and timing—a narrative that is deeply ingrained in the fabric of the Damiani legacy. These earrings, kept by Silvia as a memento of her achievements and her father's belief in her capabilities, symbolise a defining moment in both her personal journey and the broader history of Damiani.

Looking to the future, Silvia envisions Damiani continuing to uphold its rich heritage while embracing innovation and expanding into a broader luxury market. “In the next century, I see a Damiani which is still authentic,” she says, adding that while “the tradition should be kept”, it is important to adapt to new opportunities. The core message she hopes to impart to the next generation of the Damiani family and young designers is to “go on and innovate. Master the art and go on your own. Don’t be too afraid, and find your way to express your own identity.”

As Damiani steps into its next century, it does so with a legacy of beauty, an eye towards future possibilities and a continued commitment to the exquisite craftsmanship that has defined its past. This centennial collection is not just a reflection of a glorious past but also a promise of a glittering future.

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