With her signature bold colours and playful prints, Emily Cooper, the titular character in Netflix’s hit series Emily in Paris, has become a fashion icon for a new generation of viewers. As she embarks on her latest adventure in Rome, it’s the perfect moment to reflect on her style journey which has evolved with each season. Curated by costume designer Marylin Fitoussi, Emily’s wardrobe showcases stunning pieces from renowned French designers, yet the show’s portrayal of Parisian style has ignited a debate about its authenticity.
Does Emily in Paris genuinely capture the essence of Parisian style or does it merely present a glamorous, albeit exaggerated, interpretation? While the quintessential “Parisian girl” is often depicted in TV shows, luxury brand advertisements, films and pop culture as being someone who is effortlessly chic and seemingly superficial, the reality is more nuanced. To understand the reality behind this glamorous stereotype, Tatler spoke with Alexandra Harwood, a fashion historian and trend forecaster based in Paris.
Read more: 3 beautiful French homes seen in Netflix hit series ‘Emily in Paris’
Parisian palette
Emily’s style is colourful and she’s not afraid to mix and match prints (Photo: Instagram / @emilyinparis)
Inès de Fressange is a fashion icon. She epitomises understated chic à la Française (Photo: Instagram / @inesdelafressangeofficial)
Emily certainly knows how to wear colour and make a statement through her endless array of pink coats, yellow jackets and metallic green boots. However, while Paris is a fashion capital, true Parisian chic often leans towards a more muted palette.
“I think Marylin Fitoussi, Emily in Paris’s costume designer, perfectly understood that the goal wasn’t to reproduce the authentic style of a Parisian woman, but rather that of an American woman striving to become a true Parisian. This subtlety is the essence of the series, as the image of the Parisian woman captivates foreign women who seek to capture that elusive ‘je ne sais quoi,’” says Harwood.
“The use of bright colours and mixed prints is more characteristic of the American style, where excess is often associated with a certain showiness. The American woman is frequently seen as ‘too much,’ while the Parisian woman appears more minimalist.”
Harwood adds that embracing Parisian chic is not just a matter of mastering the style; it requires an implicit understanding of the codes that often elude those who have never encountered the famously harsh Parisian criticism.
Less is more
Emily Cooper demonstrates a distinctly unique sense of style since season 1 of “Emily in Paris” (Photo: Instagram / @netflixfr)
Emily demonstrates a distinctly straight-out-of-fashion-week kind of style that makes it look like the streets of Paris are a giant runway for displaying the latest fashion. However, if you’ve been to Paris, you’ll quickly realise that this is a myth.
“In front of her wardrobe, the Parisian woman grabs whatever is closest without a second thought. She is aware of trends but remains faithful to timeless classics, adding only a few touches of novelty. Often, she will wear well-cut jeans, a trench coat and a slightly oversized shirt a tad unbuttoned … So, despite all of Emily’s efforts to adapt her style and attitude to fit the Parisian aesthetic, she can never truly be a Parisian. The invisible codes will always betray her,” says Harwood.
Style vs comfort
Both Mindy and Emily stand out for their distinctive styles in “Emily in Paris” (Photo: Instagram / @ashleyparklady)
Heels are a must-have in any woman’s wardrobe, and I’m personally dying to get my hands on almost all of Emily’s shoes. But the reality of Paris quickly sets in. The city is known for its charming cobblestones and walking on them in heels is a surefire way to get injured.
This practical reality influences Parisian fashion choices, with comfort often taking precedence over sky-high stilettos. While the Emily in Paris might make you think you can stroll to work in Paris, the truth is that Parisians often have to wake up early to catch the metro. Commuting from residential neighbourhoods to office districts can be a long journey, especially during rush hour—and comfort is key during the commute.
The beret myth
Our Parisian expert busts the beret myth seen in “Emily in Paris” (Photo: Instagram / @emilyinparis)
Emily is often seen wearing hats, caps and berets, but according to our Parisian insider, Harwood, the French don’t usually wear berets in everyday life. While you might spot a few artists or older men sporting them, berets are far from a common sight on the streets of Paris.
“The myth of the Parisian woman is particularly exploited by luxury French brands, which aim to sell the fantasy of France to foreign women. The beret is a striking example: no Parisian has ever been seen wearing this accessory, despite its iconic status in the collective imagination,” says Harwood.
Timeless style over trendy designer bags
Parisian women tend to use their timeless bags for decades (Photo: Instagram / @emilyinaris)
The Parisian woman, let’s remember, doesn’t seem to worry about the latest trends and prefers vintage bags inherited from her grandmother—pieces that are nearly impossible to find on the market.
Harwood raises an interesting point: “Luxury houses seek to sell the fantasy of France to foreign women. These brands capitalise on the unattainable image of the Parisian woman to promote their products. For instance, at Chanel, Gabrielle created a feminine figure who is both sophisticated and a ‘tomboy’ who smokes cigarettes. Luxury brands promise foreign women that they too can become true Parisians—provided they acquire the latest fashionable bag. This is completely contradictory to reality: Parisian women tend to use their timeless bags for decades. Those who actually live in Paris are more likely to hunt for a vintage bag or buy from a lesser-known designer.”
Not-so-bad hair day
One thing’s for sure: Emily always looks as though she’s just stepped out of the hairdresser. With tight ponytails, intricate hairstyles for parties, and beautiful waves, Emily’s hair is the dream of every girl.
“This notion of sophisticated hair styling is more commonly associated with the American woman, who invests in impeccable blow-dries, curling irons and a generous amount of hairspray,” comments Harwood.
For years, the representation of the Parisian girl on screen has led us to believe that her hair looks effortlessly tousled as if she just rolled out of bed while still looking amazing.
“All women who don’t live in Paris are captivated by this image of the almost divine French woman. She adopts a ‘done-undone’ style that embodies nonchalance, spontaneity and a certain sense of superiority—all these make the Parisian woman seem naturally beautiful,” explains Harwood.
She adds, “In reality, this style relies on meticulous work that creates the illusion of being effortless. That’s the whole paradox of Parisian chic: a hairstyle that appears effortless, but which, in reality, follows subtle and very precise codes, often invisible to the uninitiated.”
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