Walk into a restaurant, and one of the first things you are presented with is the wine list, which can make or break a dining experience. And while most diners are acutely aware of the effort required to plan and execute a food menu, not everyone thinks about the work that is needed to create a wine list that complements the restaurant’s every element, from dishes to decor.
But what makes a good wine list great? We speak to Hafiz of DC Restaurant, Tatler Dining Malaysia’s sommelier of the year, Gerald Lu, two time National Sommelier Champion of Singapore, and Carlito Chiu, Tatler Dining Hong Kong’s sommelier of the year, to find out more.
The three talents speak about the different approaches they take to curate a balanced wine list, working with head chefs when it comes to pairing, and sharing their personal tips and tricks, adding a personal touch to the process of discovering new gems.
Read more: Meet 6 young and talented sommeliers from Singapore’s top wine bars and restaurants
How do you determine the preferences of your clientele when curating a wine list?
Carlito Chiu: Start by conducting surveys or questionnaires to gather direct feedback from customers. Next, analyse past sales data to identify popular wines among your customers, providing valuable insights into their preferences. Engaging with your staff can also be beneficial; train them to collect informal feedback about wine preferences during customer interactions. Offering diverse options is essential; curate a selection that includes a range of varietals, regions, and price points to cater to different tastes.
Hafiz: It’s crucial to understand the current market demand and taste preferences before crafting a wine list. The deep understanding of what your restaurant’s cuisine represents is also another important aspect. For instance, in the case of French cuisine, it is great to have a selection from French terroir like Alsace, Loire Valley, Bourgogne, Jura, Rhone Valley, Bordeaux and so on.
Gerald Lu: First, understand the nature of the business and understanding what you want to achieve. For instance, is the restaurant a wine bar, a fine dining restaurant wanting to deliver an experience or a casual bistro eatery? Locational and behavioural patterns of clientele also influence who will be drawn to your concept. Lastly, space constraint affects storage, how many labels you are able to offer, and financial firepower.
What is your approach to ensuring your wine list includes a variety of styles, regions, and price points?
Chiu: We prioritise the upcoming trends in the wine market, particularly those from cool climate regions and high altitudes, as these areas tend to produce grapes that exhibit a more refined and light style. Secondly, we carefully select the best vintages to ensure that each bottle delivers an exceptional tasting experience.
Hafiz: A wine list is about giving customers and guests different options. In my opinion, a good wine list must contain the major wine regions, from old world (France, Italy, Spain) to new world (Australia, New Zealand, and so on). Working with multiples wine suppliers and wine exporters also will increase the chance of having wine from different areas.
Lu: Building on my previous answer, understanding clientele and the nature of the business determines how I plan and structure my wine list, whether to design it by styles (for depth and customer experience), price (quick thinking/drinking turnover) or perhaps by region or producer.
See also: For saké’s sake: Meet Danny Leong, Malaysia’s first Master Saké Sommelier
How do you collaborate with the kitchen team to create wine pairings?
Chiu: I engage in regular discussions with chef Agustin Balbi of Ando to understand his culinary vision and the specific flavour profiles of each dish on the tasting menu. We explore the ingredients, cooking techniques, and overall theme of the menu to identify potential wine pairings that will enhance the flavours of the dishes.
Hafiz: Constant tasting! Having a bite of dishes on the menu, sipping wine, and feeling if there’s magic! I don’t always rely on the classic food and wine pairing theories—at DC Restaurant, we love to experiment with pairing new dishes with several different types of wine to search for the one that really hits the spot.
Lu: The kitchen will almost always kickstart the idea with the food they want to produce based on season or ideas. We will then come together as a team to suggest a variety of wines, then see if we need to tweak the selection even further, or order some other specific wines to match dishes.
What qualities do you look for in wine suppliers?
Chiu: I seek suppliers who demonstrate a commitment to quality. This includes sourcing grapes from reputable vineyards, emphasising sustainable and responsible farming practices, and ensuring that the winemaking process adheres to high standards.
Another important aspect is the supplier’s knowledge and passion for their products. A supplier who is well-versed in their wines can provide valuable insights, helping me to understand the nuances of each bottle, including the story behind the vineyards and the winemaking techniques employed.
Moreover, I look for suppliers who are responsive and collaborative. Strong communication and a willingness to work together facilitate a smoother procurement process, enabling us to adapt quickly to market trends and guest demands.
Hafiz: Professionalism, and a two-way relationship when it comes to business support. It’s not just about us purchasing wine from the suppliers, but suppliers also play a role when inviting winemakers to our restaurant to educate diners about their wines, a win-win situation!
Lu: Reliability and flexibility to react to emergencies is quite important, but we try to support and buy from everyone and anyone if we can. The idea is to build a long term partnership, and figure out how to make a relationship sustainable and grow together. We also try to encourage suppliers to focus on a subject that they enjoy, as usually it brings in better quality wines with deeper histories and passion.
Read more: Think Drink: Where are you on the natural wine divide?
What is your personal philosophy when it comes to wine selection?
Chiu: I believe that wine is not just a beverage; it’s an integral part of the dining experience that can enhance flavours, evoke emotions, and foster connections among people. In essence, my philosophy on wine selection is about creating a curated experience that celebrates quality, diversity, and education, ultimately enhancing the joy of dining and fostering memorable moments for our guests. This approach deeply influences the curation of our wine list, ensuring that every selection aligns with our culinary vision while enriching the overall experience.
Hafiz: One of my favourite quotes is by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, who said, “A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine.” For everything we serve at DC Restaurant, there will be a wine that you will find enjoyable to pair with your meal.
Lu: There is a time and place for every wine, and no wine is too cheap or expensive to be on our wine list as long as the quality and story are meant to be told and inspired. We are always excited to discover, but we also believe that classics are timeless. This guiding principle always keeps us open to looking out for all kinds of wines. This then trickles to suppliers bringing wines for us to taste, which expands our potential offerings.
This story is part of the Tatler Best series, showcasing the finest in Asia across hotels, restaurants and bars. Tatler Best is sponsored by Tumi and Dusit Thani Bangkok.
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