This summer, against the lush green backdrop of the Italian resort town of Ravello, Gucci unveiled its latest high jewellery collection, Labirinti Gucci. As a jewellery editor, witnessing the evolution of the maison’s high jewellery over the years has been a pleasure, but this recent unveiling marks a definitive moment in its growth in this category.
Since its entry into high jewellery in 2019, Gucci has challenged itself to create a whole new sphere of luxury, beginning with the Hortus Deliciarum (Latin for “garden of delights”) high jewellery collection. That first release introduced a mix of historical and mythological motifs, such as lions’ and tigers’ heads, along with exaggerated floral vines, crafted from a vibrant palette of gemstones including opals, sapphires, diamonds and pearls under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele. The designs were large, reflecting the signature quirky aesthetic of the brand’s fashion line, with each piece designed to make a statement.
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Bracelet in white gold with lagoon tourmaline, mandarin garnets and diamonds (Photo: courtesy of Gucci)
As the Hortus Deliciarum collection evolved in 2021 and 2022, Gucci began introducing more complex gemstone settings, and themes inspired by travel and memorable moments. The motifs remained bold but started to reflect a more refined craftsmanship. Notable pieces included a necklace with a 172.41-carat hexagon-shaped emerald, and a multifinger ring featuring a 38.8-carat green tourmaline. These pieces highlighted the maison’s growing confidence in handling large, statement gemstones.
The third chapter, unveiled in early 2023, continued to explore the theme of travel. It integrated rainbow tourmalines and embraced more thematic cohesion across necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings. The materials used were even more diverse, and included mandarin garnets, yellow beryls and enamelled settings that added a playful yet luxurious touch.
Five years after the first collection, Labirinti Gucci showcases a maturation of style and artistry under the creative direction of Sabato de Sarno and strategic vision of CEO Jean-François Palus. The theme is inspired by giardini all’italiana or Italian-style gardens, and boasts 140 masterpieces.
A standout piece is the Emerald Symmetry Cuff adorned with a 5.93 carat Colombian emerald; it’s important to note just how exceptionally rare emeralds over five carats are. Set amid a linear pattern of pavé diamonds, the design subtly incorporates the maison’s iconic “G” motif. The Colombian emerald has been chosen for its unmatched colour and clarity; if you look closely, the piece echoes the Renaissance fascination with symmetry and balance that was a recurring theme in traditional Italian art, design and architecture from the 14th to 17th century.
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Mismatched dragonfly earrings crafted in pink spinels, emeralds and white diamonds (Photo: courtesy of Gucci)
Another important jewel is the Tourmaline Harmony Necklace featuring a 56.37-carat oval-cut, green tourmaline. Surrounded by additional tourmalines of different shades that enhance its depth and complexity, this necklace celebrates the individuality of each gemstone, while the piece’s structured, geometric design mirrors the pathways of a classic Italian garden, showcasing Gucci’s ability to translate architectural inspirations into wearable art.
Labirinti Gucci also introduces a new motif: the dragonfly, symbolising change and self- realisation. This motif is articulated through a series of brooches and earrings, using a mix of tanzanites, Paraiba tourmalines and white diamonds.
The Detachable Tourmaline Necklace is an innovative piece— centred around a 113.35 carat green tourmaline, it highlights the house’s commitment to versatility in luxury design. The ability to detach and reattach elements of the necklace offers multiple styling options, echoing the modern connoisseur’s desire for personalised luxury. Adding to this collection is a bracelet in white gold, featuring a lagoon tourmaline, mandarin garnets, and diamonds totalling 27.4 carats. Likewise, the necklace in white gold, adorned with spinels, rubellites, tsavorites and diamonds, nearly weighs 84 carats.
The journey from the inaugural Hortus Deliciarum to this latest release showcases a distinct maturity in Gucci’s selection and treatment of gemstones and design philosophy. Featuring rare and substantial stones such as the 113.35-carat green tourmaline and the 20.45-carat Paraiba tourmaline, Labirinti Gucci not only expands the gemological palette for the house but also demonstrates advanced technical skill in jewellery-making through its versatile pieces.
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