The Première, Chanel’s first ever timepiece, made waves when it was released in 1987 due to its unexpectedly feminine, contemporary aesthetic—a standout among the sea of watches that championed masculine codes during the late Eighties. No longer was the only option for women's timepieces a smaller version of a men's style. Instead, for the first time, women had their very own design—an elegant, daring contrast to anything else that was on the market. It was designed by Chanel’s artistic director at the time, Jacques Helleu, who recalls knowing he was creating something revolutionary. "I fought to make a design that was strong, that was unique, that—more than just launching a single collection—would become an eternal reference."
The geometric outline of the Place Vendôme, which Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel viewed from her suite at the Ritz (Photo: Courtesy of Chanel)
The Première timepiece draws upon several iconic Chanel references as sources of inspiration. The first is Chanel No 5 perfume, another of the house's creations known for being both feminine and radical. When the famed fragranced debuted in 1921, it was the simple bottle that stood apart from anything else on the market. The geometric outline of the Place Vendôme, which Gabrielle Chanel viewed from her suite at the Ritz, influenced the clean lines of the bottle’s stopper, which in turn is reflected in the octagonal shape of the Première’s dial.
The revival of the Chanel Première timepiece (Photo: Courtesy of Chanel)
The interwoven leather and chain straps is another unmistakable Chanel design code (Photo: Courtesy of Chanel)
Another unmistakable Chanel design code used in the Première timepiece is the reference to the interwoven leather and chain straps that serve as functional adornments on an abundance of classic Chanel handbags, including the 2.55 flap bag, which launched in 1955. The colourway of the watch pays further tribute to the most classic colour combination of the 2.55: black and gold.
