Welcome to the latest instalment of our jewellery FAQs series, where each month we delve deep into a specific facet of the glittering world of gemstones and jewellery.
Diamonds have long been the centrepiece of jewellery collections around the world. However, not all diamonds are created equal, and understanding the subtle nuances that determine their value can be as complex as it is fascinating. This month, we will explore the rigorous process of diamond grading and demystify the celebrated 4Cs of diamonds—carat, cut, colour and clarity—which are the globally accepted standards for assessing the quality of a diamond.
Whether you are a prospective buyer planning to make an informed purchase, a jewellery designer seeking to deepen your expertise or simply a gem enthusiast eager to learn about the famous 4Cs of diamonds, join Tatler as we sit down with June Kimberly Lau, founder of Novel Fineries, to uncover the art and science behind this diamond grading.
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Can you explain the 4Cs of diamonds?The 4Cs of diamonds are cut, colour, clarity and carat weight. Cut is the shape of the diamond and its proportions.
Coming to colour, D is as colourless as a diamond can get. D, E, or F are considered colourless or white. G and below colours gradually appear more yellow, brown or grey.
Clarity is the visibility of inclusions within the diamond. Imperfections in the stone can be difficult to see with the naked eye but under a loupe you may see feathers, bubbles, cracks and impurities.
Carat weight is the size of the diamond, depending on how a diamond is cut, two diamonds of the same weight could also look different, some may be deeper or while others might have a larger surface area.
What’s the ideal carat size for someone who’s on a budget?For those who are looking for a steal deal, look for diamonds that don’t make the one-carat mark. Once the weight is over one full carat, it will be appraised higher.
For rings with a prominent centre stone, I think a diamond weighing 0.8 carat is ideal. It can be worn casually daily and also very elegantly when stacked with a subsequent crown or other rings. This will create endless styles for your centre stone.
Diamond grading involves understanding the 4Cs of cut, colour, carat size and clarity (Photo: courtesy of Novel Fineries)
Diamond Serpentine Pinky Ring (Photo: courtesy of Novel Fineries)
How do I get the best value for money for my diamond?Go to a trusted jeweller who can design the best setting to bring out the properties of your diamond. Don’t be afraid to wear your diamond every day, it is a very tough and durable stone and is meant to shine. As a designer and end-user of diamonds myself, I build an emotional connection with my pieces and that is the best value in my eyes.
How do I know the diamond I invest in will have resale value?Diamonds come from the ground, made by compressed carbon synthesised over billions of years and so there is only a finite amount. The demand for natural diamonds has only increased over the years so natural diamonds over one carat will have a resale value. Also, keep your GIA certificate safe as it will retain your guaranteed natural diamond value.
How do I get my diamonds appraised?An appraisal is one form of assessing a diamond ring. This official piece of paper will describe the assigned value of your entire ring—including your diamond, other stones and your setting. Professional appraisers and jewellers provide these value assessments. You can go to independent jewellers who can do them for you in-store.
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D is as colourless a diamond can get. D, E, or F, are considered colourless or white. G and below colours gradually appear more yellow, brown or grey (Photo: courtesy of Kim Lo / Novel Fineries)
Butterfly ring (Photo: courtesy of Novel Fineries)
How do I get my diamond insured?Jewellery insurance pays to replace or repair your jewellery if it’s stolen or damaged. You can get jewellery insurance through homeowners or renters insurance companies or from stand-alone jewellery insurers.
Can you tell us what to look for in terms of a diamond’s clarity?VVS and VS diamonds are the highest ranked on the clarity scale. VVS diamonds rank higher, which means their clarity quality is better than VS diamonds. The cleaner the diamond, the more brilliant it is. VVS diamonds are rarer: and the rarer and closer you get to perfect, the more valuable and expensive the gemstone becomes.
Are there any hacks you can give the untrained eye about spotting a high quality diamond?Glass is rated 5.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, and diamond, the hardest mineral, is a 10 on the same scale. So, a genuine diamond will scratch a mirror. However, it will look like quartz, moissanite and cubic zirconia. So, have a magnifying glass or a loupe in hand to check for inclusions in the stone. If you don’t spot any inclusions, as if it’s perfectly clear then it is most likely not a diamond. A diamond will almost always have inclusions like bubbles, feathers, crystals, clouds, textures and more—otherwise they will be locked away in the vault.
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