請更新您的瀏覽器

您使用的瀏覽器版本較舊,已不再受支援。建議您更新瀏覽器版本,以獲得最佳使用體驗。

Eng

“Imitation as flattery”: Check-In Taipei founder Jacky Ng on being copied and what he learnt from it

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 06月04日04:30 • 發布於 06月04日04:02 • Jacky Ng

The F&B industry in Hong Kong is highly competitive, with over 28,000 restaurants in the city. To stay ahead, restaurants must continuously revive their menus with new offerings that differentiate them from the competition. This has led to a debate around the importance of creativity and originality versus replicating popular trends.

There are two main approaches to creating a dish that aligns with current trends. The first approach is to innovate and create a truly original version of the dish. This could involve using different ingredients, culinary methods, or changing the form and shape of the product. The second approach is to replicate the popular dish, with minor tweaks to put a personal spin on it.

To illustrate the creative process, I'll share an example from one of our Taiwanese restaurants. When opening a flagship store at Harbour City, we wanted to create a unique egg tart dessert that combined the best of Hong Kong's egg tarts and Taiwan's pineapple pastry cakes. The R&D process took over four months of daily trials and at least 200 different reiterations to perfect the recipe and execution.

The key to elevating the humble egg tart was to think outside the box and challenge the norm. First, we knew the appearance needed a complete makeover. We insisted on creating a rectangular tart shell, rather than the traditional round shape, to pay homage to the Taiwanese delicacy. The typical method of hand-pressing the dough would not allow us to achieve the perfectly even, uniform sides we envisioned. This required precisely rolling out the shortbread dough to an exact thickness to fit the tart shell flawlessly. The same meticulous care and precision is applied when preparing the pineapple jam and mochi layers.

The process of forming our egg tart shells is undeniably time-consuming, requiring four full-time pastry chefs at our restaurant to execute. From an economic standpoint, the costs do not necessarily add up. However, it is our pride to serve this truly original creation, witnessing the delight on our customers' faces makes it worthwhile. The end result is definitely worth the investment in R&D and resources required. The extensive effort and attention to detail highlight the importance of the creative process.

Don't miss: 8 must-visit night markets in Taipei

The sesame okra dish at Check-In Taipei
The sesame okra dish at Check-In Taipei

The sesame okra dish at Check-In Taipei

The sesame okra dish of a recently opened competitor
The sesame okra dish of a recently opened competitor

The sesame okra dish of a recently opened competitor

I must emphasise that a relentless pursuit of perfection, combined with patience and a willingness to experiment, is crucial to birthing innovative dishes that captivate customers. By wandering into a "state of insanity," restaurants can often uncover great surprises and insights.

At our company, we make a concerted effort to create a culture that welcomes change, whether it's in our menus, operations, or design and social media initiatives. The changes we make are often inspired by observing other restaurants or cuisines and taking note of global industry developments. There is so much for us to learn from each other in the F&B industry. We are always exploring possibilities when we put our culinary passion together with our audacity to provide unique experiences for our diners.

However, it's important to draw a distinction between taking inspiration and outright forgery. While we encourage learning from and being inspired by others, we would never condone simply replicating another restaurant's dishes or concepts without putting our own spin on them. The key is to strike a balance between staying on top of trends and innovations, while maintaining the authenticity and identity of our own brand.

In a capitalist economy, some level of forgery or plagiarism is inevitable, as businesses may capitalise on new trends. This is prevalent in Hong Kong's F&B scene, where businesses quickly jump on popular food crazes. A prime example is the recent surge of perfume lemon tea concepts, with many newcomers simply replicating the original concept's offerings.

Read more: The best egg tarts in Hong Kong, according to pastry chefs

The salted egg yolk taro dish at Check-In Taipei
The salted egg yolk taro dish at Check-In Taipei

The salted egg yolk taro dish at Check-In Taipei

The salted egg yolk taro dish of a recently opened competitor
The salted egg yolk taro dish of a recently opened competitor

The salted egg yolk taro dish of a recently opened competitor

This kind of rampant copycat behaviour leads to market over-saturation and unsustainable bubbles destined to collapse. While not strictly unethical from a business standpoint, it is not a healthy or sustainable approach for the industry. Establishments that merely replicate trends without adding genuine innovation contribute to stagnation and unfair competition.

That's why, when developing our own perfume lemon tea, we were deliberate, investing time and resources into R&D to create truly unique Taiwanese-inspired drinks. The goal was to capture the trend while infusing it with our brand's identity and expertise. Differentiating ourselves through genuine innovation, rather than imitation, is crucial for long-term success and sustainability in Hong Kong's competitive landscape.

From the restaurant's point of view, the line between inspiration and forgery is clear. True innovation often stems from being inspired by existing flavours or methods, then reinventing them in a new and unique way. The key is for chefs and restaurateurs to infuse their creations with personal touches and unique elements to distinguish their work as genuine innovation, not imitation.

The unfortunate reality is that food products and dishes cannot be fully protected from copying, no matter how many patents or copyrights are applied. While this may feel disheartening, I believe it's important to view imitation as flattery. When others copy your creations, it's a testament to the originality and quality of your work. However, we should hold the mindset that competitors will eventually copy our dishes, so we must continue innovating and embracing change.

See also: 10 food and drink trends to look out for in 2024

The cheesy egg eel crepe at Check-In Taipei
The cheesy egg eel crepe at Check-In Taipei

The cheesy egg eel crepe at Check-In Taipei

The cheesy egg eel crepe of a recently opened competitor
The cheesy egg eel crepe of a recently opened competitor

The cheesy egg eel crepe of a recently opened competitor

Ultimately, customers are savvy enough to differentiate genuine innovation from forgery. For restaurants, the choice is the image they want to cultivate—those staying true to originality and creativity will be better positioned for sustainability and customer loyalty. While we may not prevent imitation entirely, we can focus on constantly elevating our offerings through genuine innovation.

Remaining aware of the latest trends while maintaining an open-minded approach to culinary exploration is essential for driving innovation. It's crucial to master techniques and respect traditions. But it's often by pushing boundaries and stepping outside established norms that truly novel creations emerge. With an open mindset, even pursuing seemingly "impossible" or unlikely ingredient and flavour combinations can lead to delightful surprises.

I understand classically-trained chefs may be hesitant to venture too far from their comfort zones. But embracing that spirit of courageous exploration is what fuels genuine innovation. This mindset is particularly important in a dynamic hub like Hong Kong, where diners constantly crave new and unexpected experiences. The innovative power of fusing diverse cuisines is the backbone of the modern food scene.

I urge all chefs and operators to maintain a relentlessly curious mindset. It is this combination of curiosity, resilient beliefs, and an open attitude that will allow establishments to adapt and thrive. We should not be preoccupied by copycat establishments, as this is unlikely to disappear in our capitalist economy. Instead, the focus should be on staying inspired, championing originality, and contributing to industry growth without reservation. While others may attempt to imitate, they can never copy your unique soul—your underlying beliefs, persistence, and resilience. These qualities are what will truly set you apart.

NOW READ

When food is not food: Photographer David Leung on how he turns bites into beasts at Harbour City exhibition

The best supper spots in Hong Kong, according to chef Vicky Cheng

Hong Kong’s newest restaurants & bars to visit this month

0 0
reaction icon 0
reaction icon 0
reaction icon 0
reaction icon 0
reaction icon 0
reaction icon 0

留言 0

沒有留言。