In the heart of Seoul, tucked away in a modest studio, a meticulous artist transforms time into something more than minutes and seconds. Minhoon Yoo, an independent watchmaker, is redefining the boundaries of traditional horology through his unique blend of artistry and craftsmanship. “I am an artist more than a businessman,” Yoo says, his passion for watchmaking palpable as he speaks toTatler GMT over video call.
Unlike the large-scale production of luxury watch brands, Yoo’s approach is deeply personal and refreshingly unhurried. “I am a single-man studio, so I have no pressure; I can make small quantities. That’s my plan for the next 10 years,” he says, hinting at the serenity that comes with such solitude. Yoo’s journey into the world of watchmaking began during his student years at Hongik University, an art school in South Korea. “I was doing business with artists making furniture that looked like big sculptures and selling them to the art market,” he says. This intersection of art and commerce inspired him to explore making his own creations. The pivot to watchmaking came after a revelatory moment: “Once I watched the documentary about independent watchmakers [Masters of Time: Independent Watchmakers (2003)], I felt like I could [depict] self- expression in the format of a mechanical watch.”
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Since his graduation in 2016, Yoo has immersed himself in the world of timepieces, establishing his brand three years ago. He sees his work as a canvas for his artistic vision. “My watches have a strong [design] concept,” he says. He replaces traditional guilloché techniques with his own method—primitive hand carving.
His approach is a deliberate rebellion against the exactness that dominates the industry. “Everything in watchmaking is so accurate and precise, but I wanted to do something opposite to that.” His pieces invite interpretation, much like abstract paintings; each engraved dial unique, with its “irregular engraving pattern”. The cultural identity of Yoo’s watches is equally intentional, as he incorporates details inspired by traditional Korean furniture. “People are interested in my watches because they are made in Korea,” he says. His goal isn’t mass appeal but a connection with a select clientele. “I just wanted to find 10 clients and I could survive [as an independent watchmaker].” Today, he has double that number. Yoo draws inspiration from fellow artisans like Japanese watchmakers Hajime Asaoka and Masahiro Kikuno. The former uses professional machinery, while the latter, like Yoo, prefers a more hands-on approach. This blend of influences is evident in Yoo’s work, where art meets engineering in harmonious balance.
Surprisingly, half of Yoo’s clientele is American, with a significant number from California, a fact that puzzles him. The rest are scattered across the globe, from Singapore to the UK, most of whom he’s never met in person.
Here, he walks Tatler GMT through a day in his life, which he describes as fairly uneventful but soulful, as he gets his me-time on the watchmaker’s bench.
A typical day for Yoo starts at 9am, his morning routine varying based on when he wakes. He spends the hour-long commute to his workshop reading about politics or philosophy.
By 10am, he’s at his bench, where his tasks for the day can range from engraving to making screws, with each demanding an entire day’s focus, ensuring that “every day is not the same”. The artist makes everything other than the watch case, strap and base movement. He sources the former from Germany, while he buys the base movement from Swiss manufacture Bucherer and then enhances it.
Lunch is a simple affair, eaten only when hunger strikes amid the day’s labour. “I like working alone; at my workshop, I get time to myself,” he says. Evenings may bring dinner appointments with friends or clients, but often, Yoo works until the last bus that takes him back home at 11pm.
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