“I consider myself both a chef and an artist in equal measure,” says Natsuko Shoji. As the chef-owner of Été, an exclusive private dining restaurant in Shibuya, Tokyo, Shoji has spent the past decade blurring the boundaries between food and art. Her accolades, including Best Pastry Chef in 2020 and Best Female Chef in 2022 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, highlight her culinary mastery while hinting at the deeper artistic narrative she weaves into her creations.
Shoji’s love for pastry began unexpectedly in a junior high school home economics class, where the simple act of making cream puffs ignited her passion. Captivated by how the dough swelled in the oven, she began experimenting at home, creating batches to share with friends. This early fascination laid the foundation for what would become her life’s work.
See also: What makes a great pastry chef?
Natsuko Shoji at Été’s tenth anniversary exhibition
Her path soon led her to the esteemed kitchens of Florilège, one of Tokyo’s most acclaimed fine dining restaurants, known for its fusion of French techniques and Japanese ingredients under the leadership of chef Hiroyasu Kawate. It was here, amid long, gruelling hours, that Shoji’s talents were tested. But her journey took a defining turn after a personal tragedy. “A pivotal moment was my father’s death,” she shares. “I probably wouldn’t have quit Florilège, which means I might never have started my own restaurant.” The loss of her father, coupled with the realisation that life is fleeting, propelled her to step away from the safety of an established kitchen and forge her own path.
This leap, however, came with significant challenges. At just 23, Shoji took out a 10 million yen (about US$70,000) loan to fund her venture—a financial risk so daunting that she applied for life insurance as a backup plan, in case her business failed.
The small Tokyo apartment Shoji started her journey in
In 2014, Shoji launched Été from her small Tokyo apartment, armed only with her talent and an industrial oven she had invested in. “Everything was by reservation only; online orders,” she recalls. There was no storefront, just a belief that her work would speak for itself. “I didn’t have the funds but I splurged on the oven because it would affect the taste.”
During these days of baking from home, Shoji’s hands-on approach meant every cake was made to order—a labour-intensive process that allowed her to maintain absolute control over the quality of her creations. It was during this period that she began to refine her culinary philosophy, one that balances innovation with a profound respect for tradition.
Été’s tenth anniversary exhibition in Tokyo
To mark Été’s tenth anniversary, Shoji unveiled an extraordinary exhibition in Tokyo—a visual and edible showcase of her decade-long journey. Collaborating with renowned flower artist Makoto Azuma, she crafted a sensory experience that celebrated her continuous evolution. The exhibition featured nine intricately designed boxes, each containing a cake paired with a floral arrangement. After the showcase, visitors were invited to taste her creations within the installations, while collaborations with graphic artist Verdy added a modern edge, complete with limited-edition merchandise, including a tenth-anniversary version of her signature Fleur de Été mango tart. “I’ve spent years pondering how to express the passion that has driven me over the decade,” Shoji reflects. The exhibition is not only a celebration of the past decade but also a bold statement of her intention to keep pushing the boundaries of culinary art.
The Fleur de Été tart has evolved alongside her career. “The original tart I created is still there,” she says, “but over the years, it has changed little by little.” Her commitment to sustainability has been a driving force behind this evolution, with seasonal, eco-friendly ingredients and practices reflecting her awareness of the broader impact of her work.
Shoji with Makoto Azuma and Takashi Murakami
Shoji’s artistry doesn’t stop at the kitchen. Her collaborations with renowned figures including contemporary artist Takashi Murakami and Verdy, whom she considers family, have played a significant role in shaping her creative journey. “They approach their work in ways that inspire me to push my creativity further.” These partnerships have not only deepened her understanding of the parallels between food and art but also encouraged her to continuously explore new techniques and ideas.
Of course, Shoji’s rise hasn’t been without its obstacles. From the challenges of international collaborations to the unpredictability of the Covid-19 pandemic, she has met each hurdle with resolve. “When collaborating overseas, the ingredients are different and there are always risks,” she explains. Yet even during the pandemic, she continued to travel for collaborations, taking PCR tests before each journey. “I often felt like my heart would explode from worry, but I had to take the risks.”
A unique perspective has also helped Shoji navigate these challenges—one she attributes to the creation of an alter ego she calls Été-ko. “It’s about having a bird’s eye view—seeing the bigger picture,” she explains. Été-ko allows her to step back and approach her work with objectivity, a practice that has been key to her growth.
Inside Été
Bean dish created by Shoji at Été
At the heart of her work lies a profound respect for Japanese ingredients and the traditions that sustain them. “I believe Japanese ingredients are of exceptional quality. They’re fragrant and the depth of flavour is extraordinary,” she explains. But her commitment goes beyond taste. For Shoji, it’s about preserving the legacy of the artisans who cultivate these ingredients. “Right now, I want to focus on finding solutions for the lack of successors to these artisans,” she says, hoping that her dedication will help to inspire the next generation to see the value in these time-honoured practices and ensure their survival.
Looking to the future, Shoji’s definition of success transcends personal recognition. “Success, for me, would be seeing so many female chefs that there’s no need to say ‘female chef ’ any more,” she explains. Her goal is to create a more inclusive, sustainable culinary environment where the next generation of chefs can thrive.
Shoji is focused on preserving the integrity and essence of Japanese cuisine
When it comes to the prospect of international expansion, Shoji remains resolute in her vision. “There’s a possibility I might take my work abroad, but it will always be about showcasing the qualities of Japanese ingredients,” she muses. Even as she considers crossing borders, her unwavering focus is on preserving the integrity and essence of Japanese cuisine.
As she embarks on the next chapter of her career, Shoji’s focus on innovation and impact remains clear. Her work, whether in the kitchen or in collaboration with other artists, continues to challenge conventions and redefine what it means to be a chef in the modern world. Natsuko Shoji’s journey is far from over, and as she continues to create, inspire and innovate, she remains a formidable force in the culinary world—a force that will undoubtedly continue to shape the future of food and art for years to come.
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