In June, the industry held its breath as it awaited Cheney Chan’s debut spectacle in the heart of Paris, the gilded halls of haute couture. The previous month, supermodel Coco Rocha had worn his spiral-cut silk gown, which resembles a calla lily, at the Cannes Film Festival; and Hollywood actress Anya Taylor-Joy had appeared on the cover of US entertainment magazine Variety wearing a pure white sculptural gown.
Tatler meets Chan two days before his show at a photo studio where fittings were taking place, styling was being discussed, and final adjustments and embroidery were being made to the 23 looks he was set to present. We also saw Rocha—this time in person—trying on three extravagantly feathery pastel pink gowns and discussing which one she would bring to life with her signature walk to close the show.Read more: Unveiling the ethereal: The visionary designs of Gaurav Gupta
Model Coco Rocha during fittings before Cheney Chan Private autumn- winter 2024 show (Photo: courtesy of Kevin Larreguy)
Model Coco Rocha during fittings before Cheney Chan Private autumn- winter 2024 show (Photo: courtesy of Kevin Larreguy)
The designer had produced large-scale fashion shows in his native China before and is no stranger to being the centre of attention. In addition to his role as a designer, he is widely recognised as an influencer and commentator, amassing more than five million followers on the Chinese short- form video platform Douyin, where he often comments on the latest fashion trends and analyses celebrities’ red-carpet choices. However, he admits to feeling nervous about his first international presentation and the weight of representing his culture. “I can’t let [Chinese people] down. That’s kind of how I feel about it.”
Like many teenagers, Chan didn’t believe his parents’ plans for his future gelled with his own; but it wasn’t until he saw online coverage of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week that he decided what form his teen rebellion would take. His reaction, he says, was: “Okay, let me become an haute couture fashion designer.” Perhaps it was less rebellious than it felt at the time; as he was growing up, his mother would often enlist his help to choose her outfits, and his grandfather, a director of a cultural museum, instilled in him a deep appreciation for the arts. With this goal in mind, he pursued a fashion media degree at Peking University before starting his own brand in 2012.
Fittings of Cheney Chan “Dream In Blossom" Collection (Photo: courtesy of Kevin Larreguy)
Fittings of Cheney Chan “Dream In Blossom" Collection (Photo: courtesy of Kevin Larreguy)
Designer Cheney Chan (Photo: courtesy of Kevin Larreguy)
Fittings of Cheney Chan “Dream In Blossom" Collection (Photo: courtesy of Kevin Larreguy)
A decade in, however, Chan felt ready for another change. “After years in ready-to-wear, I found myself lost, compromising [my designs] for the market,” the 32-year- old says. In 2021, he shifted his focus to custom-made pieces, allowing himself to reconnect with his passion for creation. “I wanted to return to fundamental aspects of design rather than catering to trends.” This pivot towards an haute couture business model led to his rebranding his eponymous label as Cheney Chan Private. Chan is a rare mainland Chinese designer to make such a shift but believes that could change. “There isn’t an haute couture market [for local designers] in China before, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be one in the future.”
Model Coco Rocha in Cheney Chan Private at the red carpet of the Cannes Film Festival 2024 (Photo: courtesy of Getty Images)
Chan’s design philosophy is deeply rooted in Chinese culture; he describes his work as a fusion of “elegance, drama and silhouette” that eschews the obvious symbols of Chinese culture in favour of more nuanced expressions of his heritage. One of his signature techniques is inspired by traditional Chinese porcelain: layering fabrics to recreate the circular texture achieved by the high-speed rotation of a piece on a pottery wheel. Another example of his brand DNA lies in a silhouette that he created called Feng Ya Qi, which is inspired by a traditional corset combined with a reinterpretation of the neck of a porcelain bottle. By adding a special structure at a 45-degree angle to the crotch, the architectural structure of Feng Ya Qi showcases a woman’s graceful curves and waist- to-hip ratio.
This innovative approach to his silhouettes—subtle, graceful shapes—contrast with the more exaggerated styles often favoured in Western fashion. “Chinese aesthetics are more understated,” he notes, highlighting how his silhouettes reveal the beauty through movement rather than overt display.
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Presented in the Salle Gaveau concert hall, Chan’s Paris show, Dream In Bloom, was a tour de force of his artistry. Drawing inspiration from traditional Chinese stories and 12 female characters, symbolising the 12th anniversary of the brand, the collection reimagines these narratives through a contemporary lens. Models became characters and put on performances through the choreographed way they walked, akin to the couture salon shows of the past. There were voluminous taffeta capes and silk gowns, draped, sculpted and embroidered like blooming flowers. Feathers, sequins and crystals were hand-embellished in a palette of rosy reds, pastel pinks and marigold yellows.
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Finale of Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 show
One standout piece is inspired by a female figure from ancient Chinese lore. “I wanted to reinterpret traditional Chinese stories and female characters with more modern female qualities and essence,” he tells Tatler. “There was a unique female character that I found really fascinating. She was a general and a warrior in an ancient Chinese story, but she also played the roles of wife, daughter, princess and protector of her nation’s people,” he says. “I was really intrigued by how she embodied both feminine and masculine qualities— the tenderness and toughness, the softness and strength all combined in one person. I wanted to explore that contrast and integration of seemingly opposing traits in my designs.”
This duality is reflected in many of his designs, where traditionally masculine armour is reimagined with a distinctly feminine touch, incorporating soft, fluid elements alongside symbols of strength.
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Cheney Chan Private autumn-winter 2024 couture collection
Chan’s creative process is as meticulous as it is inspired. Each garment is the result of months of research and work by dozens of artisans, with Chan overseeing every detail to ensure it meets his exacting standards. For this collection, “I went to many different cities around China, including Hangzhou and Suzhou,” he says, referring to two cities that were popular summer escapes for emperors throughout history and are famous for their lakes and gardens, respectively, “to immerse myself in that cultural context. This helps me extract the right elements and reimagine them in a fresh, contemporary way for my designs.”
Speaking of the handicrafts that are core to any couture brand, Chan admits he is a fan of achieving extremes. For example, some pieces feature torn pieces of silk, layered to create a similar feel to feathers. “I apply this technique to recreate fabric and silhouettes that embody the refined elegance of our brand,” he explains. “We don’t just use the simplest method to create our pieces. We use the best method to do it, or we work backwards from the most perfect visual standard to figure out what elements we should use.” One headpiece in the show referenced a general’s helmet; to create it, he tapped a ceramic artist to mould a helmet covered in beautiful white butterflies. “I want to create something extremely refined, but the traditional methods don’t contain those elements, so we have to innovate. This is my approach to innovating on traditional Chinese culture,” he says.
Details of Cheney Chan Private autumn- winter 2024 show (Photo: courtesy of Kevin Larreguy)
Fittings of Cheney Chan “Dream In Blossom" Collection (Photo: courtesy of Kevin Larreguy)
Off the official haute couture calendar, the show nevertheless attracted crowds of media and fashion enthusiasts—something that is increasingly the case, as the fashion world turns its gaze eastward for emerging couturiers. London-based, Hong Kong-born Robert Wun and London-based Korean designer Sohee Park are testament to how international clients and celebrities are rallying a new generation of Asian couture designers. This support is not lost on Chan, who sees it as a sign of changing times in the industry. “This is the ‘golden decade’ for Asian designers,” he says.
Looking ahead, Chan is weaving a new narrative—one stitch at a time. “My thinking is quite simple: I need to do well in each and every show. I want each and every look to have something new, rather than just resting on my laurels,” he says. “I will always focus on the next work. I will always let my work speak for itself.”NOW READ
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