After 12 memorable years, Ronin is set to close its doors this December. Established in 2013, this intimate 14-seat izakaya quickly became a beloved fixture in Hong Kong’s culinary scene, celebrated for its fresh use of seafood, an impressive selection of Japanese whisky and sake, and intimate dining experience.
The brainchild of Lindsay Jang and Matt Abergel—who also co-founded the acclaimed Yardbird—Ronin was not merely a place to dine but a gathering spot where Hong Kong’s stylish crowd would share plates and inventive cocktails, often lingering late into the evening. In 2023, the venue evolved into a snack bar that retained its welcoming atmosphere while introducing a refreshed menu.
Despite this thoughtful reimagining, the limitations of Ronin’s space led to the difficult decision to close. As the restaurant prepares to serve its final dishes, Jang and Abergel are already looking ahead. In January, they will unveil a new concept next to Yardbird, promising to carry forward the same commitment to quality and creativity that made Ronin a cherished destination in Hong Kong’s dining scene.
See also: Lindsay Jang’s latest wellness venture, Rooms, harnesses the magic of microdosing
Ronin 2013
Ronin 2023
Ronin has been a beloved spot in Hong Kong—what led you to the decision to close it now?
Matt Abergel (MA): In the beginning, the reason why we opened Ronin was as a creative outlet for me as a chef. Yardbird was extremely busy, and I wanted to do something small and personal that wasn’t chicken and wasn’t so hectic. I think we accomplished a lot and have one of the best kitchen and front-of-house teams in the city. The space itself is very limiting, between the seating and kitchen size. We have been eyeing this space right next to Yardbird for a while now and finally decided to pull the trigger.
Lindsay Jang (LJ): There’s nothing romantic about this answer, but the reality is that the numbers just don’t work anymore. It was a difficult decision but also a no-brainer—when you put so much effort into a business to break even, it just doesn’t make sense.
Looking back, what has been the most rewarding part of Ronin’s journey?
MA: I think the support of our regular customers, meeting so many interesting people, and developing the most capable team I could imagine.
LJ: So many things! Over the last 12 years, we have learned a million lessons from that space. We were only 30 years old when we opened it—we didn’t have as much life experience as we do now. It’s a great way of reflecting on how far you’ve come.
Ronin 2013
Ronin 2023
Can you share some details about the concept for your new project?
MA: The concept is really about the freedom to execute all our collective experiences without so many constraints. We want to be present in this particular time and space, cooking the food and giving the service that we feel Hong Kong deserves and wants. Honesty and simplicity have always been at the core of whatever we do, and I think this will be an even clearer representation of that.
LJ: I can tell you that it will be next door to Yardbird, and the menu will be very much inspired by Ronin. But with more space and a better layout, the menu will follow suit.
The flower crab with uni, mitsuba and sudachi was a signature at Ronin
Ronin’s unagi chirashi with kinome, pickled cucumber and sesame dish
What can we expect from the new menu?
MA: The new menu will continue to take advantage of Hong Kong markets, the unparalleled variety of fresh and live seafood, and amazing produce, while still leaning heavily on the relationships I have built with Japanese suppliers, particularly in the Kyushu area. After 15 years in Hong Kong, I feel this menu will reflect that time, my love and appreciation for the city, its cuisine, and Japan.
LJ: With the larger space, we’re excited to evolve the menu and introduce larger format protein options for sharing, with lots of delicious smaller plates to accompany. Of course, we wouldn’t leave the sashimi section behind.
What aspect of this new restaurant excites you the most?
MA: The design and build process is my favourite thing, and having the opportunity to work with our friend Willo Perron is exciting. The proximity to Yardbird, for our team to have new experiences in their job and also for me to stop having to walk back and forth in 40-degree heat.
LJ: Starting fresh. New space, new energy. Giving our amazing team more space to spread their wings. The closeness to Yardbird is a huge reason we chose this space. Running both spaces under a more cohesive structure is a dream situation from an operations perspective. More support, more hands. Neighbours.
The sashimi at Ronin
Is there a particular cultural or artistic influence driving the new concept?
MA: I have always loved stainless steel as a material, and I feel out of all the materials that Hong Kong contractors can execute best, it's stainless. The neighbourhood of Sheung Wan has also been an inspiration. These were the starting points when working with Willo and his team. He is a close friend, and it’s exciting to work with someone who has such a diverse design background but also knows Lindsay and me well.
LJ: Willo knows us well and knows we want to keep certain legacy elements from Ronin. He also has our complete trust when it comes to aesthetics.
What’s one key lesson you learned from Ronin that you’re taking into this new venture?
MA: At the end of the day, eating out is social, and the space wasn’t conducive to being social. The new space will be great for a date, as Ronin was, but will also be good for bigger groups.
LJ: L-shaped restaurants and narrow rectangles don’t work.
NOW READ
Unpacking Chinese cuisine with Lucas Sin: From cha chaan tengs to Shanghai’s culinary revolution
What goes into creating a great wine list, according to Asia’s top sommeliers
留言 0