Tatler takes a closer look at the dazzling emerald extravaganza that unfolded at the Ambani-Merchant wedding. The much-anticipated union of Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant at the Jio World Centre in Mumbai was a jewel-studded affair, with the Ambani women showcasing an array of stunning emerald pieces that left onlookers in awe.
But what makes emeralds the jewel of choice for India’s wealthiest family? Emeralds have long been associated with rebirth, fertility, and eternal youth in Indian culture. For a family that has built an empire from the ground up, these symbolisms may resonate deeply.
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For the garba night (Gujarati dance night), the radiant bride adorned herself with a traditional polki jadau (uncut gems set in gold) jewellery set. The statement piece consisted of a choker and a round necklace featuring five pendants, each embellished with Zambian emerald drops. Weighing an impressive 407.14 grams, the piece showcased the pinnacle of Indian craftsmanship. The new Mrs Ambani completed her look with matching karn phool jhumar earrings. The choice of Jaipur Jewels for this occasion not only highlighted Radhika’s impeccable taste but also paid homage to India’s rich jewellery-making heritage.
Nita Ambani dazzled in a custom Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla couture ensemble that beautifully blended tradition with opulence. The hand-embroidered zardozi ghagra (embroidered skirt), inspired by Kashi’s temple architecture, was paired with a jewelled blouse featuring intricatejhumka (drop earrings) embroidery and elephant motifs. Adding a personal touch, the blouse incorporated the names of her children and grandchildren. The highlight of her look was the exquisite emerald jewellery from her personal collection, designed and set by the family’s favourite jeweller Viren Bhagat. This Mumbai-based, fourth-generation private jeweller is renowned for his one-of-a-kind designs that merge Art Deco and Mughal influences, making him a favourite among global elites and connoisseurs. A standout piece was the emerald armband, a bajuband, which added a regal touch to her already magnificent attire.
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Radhika Merchant’s wedding jewellery beautifully blended tradition and family heritage. The centrepiece was a stunning five-row necklace, traditional rani haar by Mumbai jeweller Nisha Mehta, featuring syndicatepolki (uncut diamonds) and Zambian emeralds. The emerald-cut piece is adorned with tumbling emerald drops. Radhika paired this with heirloom family jewels in antique uncut diamonds, gifted by her mother Shaila Merchant.
Nita wore a necklace, valued at an astounding US$48-60 million, to her son’s pre-wedding festivities in Jamnagar in March. This piece, featuring a cascade of emeralds and diamonds punctuated by two emerald block pendants, combines the family’s love for emeralds and diamonds.
She once again sparked conversations about emeralds with her choice of jewellery for the bride’s mameru ceremony on July 3, 2024. This Gujarati wedding tradition, where the bride’s maternal uncle presents her with sweets and gifts, served as the perfect occasion for Nita to showcase a stunning family heirloom.
The necklace, featuring three magnificent emeralds suspended from an intricate diamond-encrusted chain, was also worn by Nita in 2016 at the wedding of Shashwat Goenka, son of Indian business magnate Sanjiv Goenka, to Shivika Jhunjhunwala. Its reappearance at this intimate family gathering underscores the Ambanis’ enduring love for emeralds.
Isha Ambani, carrying forward her mother’s legacy, has been spotted wearing this same necklace on several occasions, including at the opening of the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC) last year.
See also: Everything you need to know about the Ambani wedding in July
A closer look at Isha Ambani’s Tamilian styled look (Photo: Instagram / @ambani_update)
The Nizam of Hyderabad emerald necklace and traditional jewellery (Photo: Instagram / @ambani_update)
The traditional braid ornament studded with gemstones (Photo: Instagram / @ambani_update)
On July 8, at the after-party of Anant and Radhika’shaldi ceremony, the groom’s sister Isha donned what is believed to be the historic Nizam of Hyderabad necklace—a vintage masterpiece of diamonds, emeralds, and gold, which belongs to her mother. The emerald jadau neckpiece with heavy earrings, a cocktail ring, and beige-toned bangles show that Isha’s jewellery choices for these events reveal a pattern of styling family heirlooms to create versatile looks. The ensemble was completed with a stunning real gold hair ornament pinned to her braid. Custom-made by India’s Birdhichand jewellers, it features diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds.
It’s worth noting that many of the Ambani family’s most spectacular pieces, including some of Isha’s necklaces, are creations of Viren Bhagat, like the one she wore at Anant and Radhika’s pre-wedding festivities in March.
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Isha Ambani wearing an emerald parure to complement her Manish Malhotra outfit (Photo: Instagram.com / @manishmalhotra05)
At another pre-wedding event celebrating Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant in March 2024, Isha was seen wearing a striking emerald set comprising a necklace, earrings, and a ring, starkly contrasting yet perfectly complementing her red Manish Malhotra ensemble.
As we anticipate the dazzling display of jewels at the upcoming Ambani-Merchant nuptials on July 12, one thing seems certain: amidst the sparkle of diamonds and the lustre of pearls, the deep green of emeralds will undoubtedly shine bright, continuing the family’s verdant love affair with this captivating gemstone.
Shloka Mehta wearing emerald beads (Photo: courtesy of instagram / @shaleenanathani)
Shloka Ambani, wife of Akash Ambani, completed the family’s emerald theme with a necklace made of emerald beads stacking it with an emerald studded choker, and paired it with a maang tikka or head ornament together with emerald beaded bracelets.
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