Asia’s royal families are not just symbols of tradition and power; they are also epitomes of style and elegance, particularly when it comes to their choice of jewellery. Here’s a look at some of the preferred jewellery brands of Asian royalty, along with the famous royals who have worn these brands, making them a part of their regal legacy.
From the intricate creations of traditional court jewellers in Bhutan to the celebrated designs of Cartier favoured by Indian princes, the story of Asian royal jewellery is rich with cultural significance and artistic mastery.
These stories of opulence are not merely about the aesthetic and material value of the pieces; Asian royal jewellery is a reflection of political alliances, personal tastes, and the pivotal role of cultural preservation through the ages.
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India: Cartier’s long-lasting relationship
The alliance between Cartier and Indian royalty began in the early 20th century when Jacques Cartier, the grandson of the founder of the French maison, visited India. The timing was perfect as India’s maharajas of that era were enamoured with Western ways and goods. Jacques saw an immense opportunity to build a relationship based on this fascination, and soon, Cartier became a favoured jeweller for India’s elite.
One of the most legendary commissions was from Bhupendra Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala, who in 1928 entrusted Cartier with redesigning the jewels in his treasury. The result was the famous Patiala Necklace, which featured 2,930 diamonds and weighed almost a thousand carats, with the centrepiece being the world’s seventh-largest diamond at the time.
Amidst these grand commissions of Asian royal jewellery, Cartier developed a style that was particularly favoured by the Indian royals—the Tutti Frutti style. This style famously incorporated a mélange of coloured gemstones carved with traditional Indian motifs but arranged according to Art Deco principles. The Tutti Frutti pieces typically featured lush, vibrant gemstones such as rubies, emeralds, and sapphires carved into leaves and berries, combined with the meticulous settings of diamonds.
One of the most iconic Tutti Frutti pieces is the Collier Hindou necklace created in 1936 for Daisy Fellowes, a prominent French-American socialite of the time. This piece, although not made for an Indian royal, was inspired by the designs that Cartier had been creating for its Indian clients and became emblematic of the Tutti Frutti style.
Japan: Mikimoto pearls
Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko of Japan. The latter is known for her impressive collection of Asian royal jewellery (Photo: Instagram/ @royalsaddicted)
This story begins with Kokichi Mikimoto, the son of a noodle shop owner, who was born in 1858 in Toba, Japan. Fascinated by pearls, Mikimoto was driven by the dream to create perfect, round pearls that were accessible to women everywhere. In 1893, after years of trial and error, he successfully produced the world’s first cultured pearls. By solving the puzzle of pearl cultivation, Mikimoto not only revolutionised the pearl industry but also laid the groundwork for what would become a globally recognised brand.
Mikimoto’s pearls quickly garnered fame both domestically and internationally. The brand’s relationship with the Japanese imperial family began in the early 20th century when Mikimoto was granted permission to present his pearls to Empress Teimei, the wife of Emperor Taisho. The gesture was not just a commercial endorsement but a cultural emblem, as pearls have long been associated with purity and elegance in Japanese tradition—qualities highly esteemed in the imperial family.
Over the years, Mikimoto pearls became a staple in the royal wardrobe. The simplicity and elegance of the pearls made them a favoured accessory for various royal engagements and state functions. Notably, Empress Michiko, known for her impeccable and understated style, often chose to wear Mikimoto pearls.
The patronage of Japan’s imperial family played a crucial role in elevating Mikimoto’s status on the world stage and making it an integral part of Asian royal jewellery. As members of the royal family attended international events adorned in Mikimoto pearls, they not only showcased Japanese craftsmanship but also symbolised the nation’s aesthetic sensibility and cultural pride. This visibility was instrumental in establishing Mikimoto as a global luxury brand.
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Thailand: Lotus Arts de Vivre
Queen Sirikit with Rolf von Bueren of Lotus Arts de Vivre (Photo: courtesy of instagram/Lotus Arts de Vivre)
The connection between Lotus Arts de Vivre and Thai royalty, particularly Queen Sirikit, has helped cement the brand’s status as a cultural Thai emblem. Queen Sirikit, known for her elegant style and patronage of Thai arts and crafts, has often been seen wearing pieces from Lotus Arts de Vivre. Her endorsement reflects not only her personal taste but also her role as a custodian of Thai culture, promoting traditional craftsmanship in the modern world.
Malaysia: Habib Jewels
A leading royal figure who wears Habib Jewels is Queen Azizah Aminah Maimunah Iskandariah, the consort of the current Yang di-Pertuan Agong (King) of Malaysia. Her choice to wear Habib Jewels at several state functions is not just a matter of personal taste but also a significant endorsement of the brand’s craftsmanship and its resonance with Malaysian cultural identity.
Habib Jewels is renowned for its integration of traditional Malaysian motifs into its designs, which include intricate patterns and symbols that are significant in Malaysian culture. Among these are batik patterns, which are characterised by their intricate and colourful designs created through a wax-resist dyeing technique. This traditional art form involves layering wax on fabric to create diverse patterns, then dyeing the fabric while the wax areas resist the dye, resulting in multi-coloured textiles.
These batik designs often feature natural flora and fauna motifs, such as stylised hibiscus flowers or Malaysian tigers, and are translated into the metalwork or gemstone settings of Habib Jewels’ pieces. Additionally, the brand incorporates geometric patterns from Islamic art, reflecting the intricate arabesque and mosaic designs found in many regional artefacts. Habib Jewels also utilises traditional Malaysian materials and gemstones, such as locally sourced gold and silver, pewter known for its durability and unique sheen, and lustrous pearls from Malaysia’s rich marine environments, along with jade, rubies, and sapphires. These material choices and designs resonate deeply with national pride and cultural identity, making each piece a celebration of Malaysian heritage.
Bhutan: Traditional court jewellers
The jewellery worn by Bhutanese royals is exclusively made by local artisans who have inherited and honed their craft through generations. These artisans employ age-old techniques that involve handcrafting each piece with attention to detail. The methods and styles used are traditional, often unique to specific regions or communities within Bhutan, making each piece distinct.
Traditional Bhutanese jewellery features intricate designs that are rich in symbolism and meaning. These designs often incorporate Buddhist motifs and symbols, such as lotus flowers, dorjes (thunderbolts), and Dzi beads, which are considered to offer protection and spiritual benefits. The materials used are typically high-quality silver, gold, and a variety of vibrant gemstones that are either locally sourced or hold particular cultural significance.
The gemstones used can vary widely, but most often feature treasures of the sea which include turquoise, coral and pearls. Queen Jetsun Pema, in particular, is often seen in traditional attire complemented by such jewellery during official events and public appearances.
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